Squeaking Sound Coming from 225 /6

Slant 6 Engines

  1. pishta

    pishta I know I'm right....

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    Gauge was way more responsive with no air bubble in it you could see it vibrating when bled solid. With a little air pocket, it was more stable. The bubbles were just bugging me, watching it change size when revving it seemed unnatural for a hydraulic gauge.
     
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    • 69_340_GTS

      69_340_GTS Well-Known Member

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      Not my car & not my installation. But I learned from this, and I can see no good reason to install a mechanical o.p. gauge inside the car.
       
    • chinze57

      chinze57 Push Button tranny and a Slant 6 that'll never die FABO Gold Member

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      So is it worth bleeding when I do my final install? And how should I route it through the firewall? This also brings up a question- there’s no tach in the ‘64, and i will eventually want to mount one under the dash along with the mech oil gauge, how would I install one?
       
    • chinze57

      chinze57 Push Button tranny and a Slant 6 that'll never die FABO Gold Member

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      With a rubber line do I need to do those vibration loops? And if so, do I just loop the cable, does it need to be tied off in that state? Just making sure I get it right
       
    • my68barracuda

      my68barracuda Well-Known Member

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      A plastic line does not require the vibration loops
       
    • chinze57

      chinze57 Push Button tranny and a Slant 6 that'll never die FABO Gold Member

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      Got it. Is copper versus rubber worth it?
       
    • my68barracuda

      my68barracuda Well-Known Member

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      Your best bet is to get back on track and install a mechanical oil pressure gauge to help diagnose your oil pressure issue. Do a temporary install.
       
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      • RustyRatRod

        RustyRatRod Bla de blizhibliz de blatde blizi bla bla FABO Gold Member

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        I like the plastic/nylon lines. Just route them away from sharp edges and heat and they last forever.
         
      • RedFish

        RedFish Well-Known Member

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        9 lbs average, as little as 7 lbs will turn off a oil warning lamp. Senders don't squeak either.
        If that slant six pokes the number 5 rod through the left side of the block...
         
      • chinze57

        chinze57 Push Button tranny and a Slant 6 that'll never die FABO Gold Member

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        That’s 100% my plan. Hopefully the gauge will arrive today and i can get it installed and get some numbers.
         
      • chinze57

        chinze57 Push Button tranny and a Slant 6 that'll never die FABO Gold Member

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        I just finished the install and tested it. It measured 50 psi after crank and stayed there for several minutes as I let it idle and warm up. Here is a video of what’s it sounded like in the engine bay.

        Any help is appreciated! Thank you all for the information so far.

         
      • 1963dartgt

        1963dartgt FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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        No sound on video.
         
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        • KosmicKuda

          KosmicKuda FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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          So you saw 50 psi on the oil gauge? You just made Uncle Tony jealous.

          You should take the valve cover off and see if you have good oil flow up there. If it's sludged up, take the rocker shaft off and clean out the rocker arm oil feed holes in the shaft as they're only about 1/8" diameter.

          First thing I think of when a revved up engine squeaks is belts. Take off the belts, rev the engine and see if it still aqueaks.
           
        • 1963dartgt

          1963dartgt FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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          Lots of post,didnt read them all but have you checked the flex plate bolts. I know they usually make a tapping noise but its worth a shot.
           
        • pishta

          pishta I know I'm right....

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          I second that belt delete for a run without accessories.
           
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          • RustyRatRod

            RustyRatRod Bla de blizhibliz de blatde blizi bla bla FABO Gold Member

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            What was the idle oil pressure HOT? Everybody always leaves out the most important information.
             
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            • chinze57

              chinze57 Push Button tranny and a Slant 6 that'll never die FABO Gold Member

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              Don’t know about hot. I only left it cranked for around 5 minutes in idle. My temperature gauge isn’t working so ill check to make sure it’s hooked up and then replace my sending unit so i can get a measurement at operating temp.
               
            • chinze57

              chinze57 Push Button tranny and a Slant 6 that'll never die FABO Gold Member

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              Damn. I’ll figure that out. Thanks for letting me know
               
            • chinze57

              chinze57 Push Button tranny and a Slant 6 that'll never die FABO Gold Member

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              Immediately after crank the gauge was up at the 50 mark, and stayed there with some minor fluctuations (a little down after a minute or so, then went up to maybe 52 for a while) until I killed the engine.

              Valve covers are my next step. The rocker arm is the piece connected to the valve springs, correct? I’ll check and make sure there’s oil, should I do this while it’s cranked?

              My belts were replaced in february, but it’s worth checking out. I’ll look Into how to do that.
               
            • 1963dartgt

              1963dartgt FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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              You know i got to thinking about this thread while im bored at lunch. What if it has nothing to do with oil but a faulty oil sender. And the real problem is a bad alternator. You say the car bogged down and squeaked after revving squeaked again. If the alternators toast and you broke a brush would that not cause squeaking and not running at 14v or so the car wont run the best. Id pull the belts like suggested and see if the squeaking continues. Or could be a water pump bearing if you have just water because remember coolant not only cools the car but lubes the pump. Just a thought.
               
            • chinze57

              chinze57 Push Button tranny and a Slant 6 that'll never die FABO Gold Member

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              That’s a good thought. I had an issue just a Month or so ago where my car overheated and blew a radiator hose. New hose wasn’t put in, and topped off with mostly water and some coolant. I think, no joke, the pep boys that did that all for free used just tap water which might have messed with it (the minerals etc). This gives me another thing to check for. If it’s not an oil pressure issue (the wire from the sender broke immediately upon moving it at all, so a resistance issue would be expected, resulting in a turned on oil pressure light) as indicated by the mech op gauge, then maybe it’s an oiling issue from the rockers. If I discover it’s not that, maybe it’s accessories, and if it’s not that, then water pump might be the thing.

              Thank you for that idea. I will definitely Be looking into it.
               
            • theFightingFew

              theFightingFew Always Learning/1975 Valiant Custom/1974 Valiant FABO Gold Member

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              That literally made me laugh out loud... Oh the drama.
               
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              • chinze57

                chinze57 Push Button tranny and a Slant 6 that'll never die FABO Gold Member

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                Ok, a bit of an update. I took the Dart to my mechanic last sunday and they got to it on Tuesday. I had taken the valve covers off, didnt see anything I could easily identify as being wrong, but with 50 pounds of pressure I figured I'd be good for the 1.5 mile drive. Before I drove it over, I left it parked, cranked the car, and revved it in neutral. The squeak did happen, but when I drove it I heard nothing.

                After my mechanic looked at it, he couldnt find anything out of the ordinary and couldnt even get it to squeak. I tried again while it was at the shop and it didn't do it. Since that no longer seems to be an issue, I took that opportunity to have my mechanic rebuild my steering coupler with a replacement from Pishta and a rebuild kit from classic industries. It removed a lot of the play, but there's still a significant amount of play (about a quarter turn turning the wheel counter clockwise, none turning it clockwise) while rolling, and about half that when stopped. Some other parts of that linkage are definitely worn out, as I can grab the coupler and turn it and get that play to happen, so it's not there. Time to figure out what's going to be replaced to get my steering up to par (perhaps time to switch to 16:1 or 20:1 and get a not cracked steering wheel)

                After driving it around 20 miles round-trip to make sure it was fine and get some measurements here are oil pressure measurements:
                50psi at crank
                50 psi while driving at operating temperature
                20psi to 30 psi while idling in drive at operating temperature

                Thanks for everyone's help, sorry there doesn't seem to be some issue that would explain it.
                 
              • pishta

                pishta I know I'm right....

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                There is plenty of locations to check play, the main one is the idler arm. If that bushing is bad, the idler will move up and down, taking some of the left/right motion with it causing a 'play' condition. Get that replaced and also check the steering box mount. Get eyes on the steering box and turn the wheel. The box should not move AT ALL. I cracked my steering mount on the K and about lost the car on the road. While your under there look at the idler arm, it should only move left and right, no up/down movement, as well as the tie rod ends, should be nice and firm on the spindles. Last thing to check is the gear itself. There is a small adjuster nut on top of steering box. Center steering wheel and loosen lock nut and give the adjuster a 1/4 turn to the right. see if there is any play reduction. I had my friend wiggle steering wheel while I did this and I got a half turn out of that adjuster. Seemed to take some play out of the steering.
                 
                Last edited: Jul 5, 2020
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                • KosmicKuda

                  KosmicKuda FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                  Steering slop:

                  With the hood open, resch down and rotate the steering shaft gently back and forth. Near, or at the coupler. Don't be surprised if there is play. You can tighten up the clearance by loosening the lock nut and tightening the screw on the box until the play is just gone. Don't overdo it. Refer to a FSM for instructions. My cars are manual steering snd they are tight.

                  Also you may have badly worn tie rod ends.
                   
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