starter issues

[dirty white boy]

need a lil mopar wisdom,..just tryed to crank my /6 883od 79 d100 and when turning key all i get is starter solenoid clicking, so i crossed post on starter and it spun over fine but no fire, pulled plug wire and stuck screw driver in it and held it near alt bracket and spun it again and no fire to plugs,...i need a new starter relay dont i????

 

[Dana67Dart]

When you bypass the starter relay the way you did, unless the key is in the run position it will not fire.

Try it again with key in run.

But yes with the limited testing the starter relay is very suspect.

 

[dirty white boy]

When you bypass the starter relay the way you did, unless the key is in the run position it will not fire.

Try it again with key in run.

But yes with the limited testing the starter relay is very suspect.

yes,..key was on!! getting very weak spark to plugs... lights work as well as everything else!

 

[Dana67Dart]

getting very weak spark to plugs

The key uses 2 separate circuits during starting.

IGN 2 bypasses the ballast resistor so during the drain of cranking there is more voltage available for spark.

You can duplicate that by running a jumper from battery plus to the coil side of the ballast resistor. Don't leave it on very long otmr you can cook the coil.

 

[67Dart273]

EDIT LOL I was typing..................

May or may not be the starter relay, "how it works."

Notice you have two flag/ push on terminals on the relay. These are the relay coil. The huge stud gets power from the battery, serves as a junction point for other components, and is one of the relay contacts. The other contact is the "square" terminal which feeds down to the solenoid.

If you can get the starter to crank when you jumper the two bare large terminals on the relay, the relay is getting power to the contact and the starter sol wire is good.

One of the flag terminals feeding the relay coil gets power when you twist the key to start, but it needs a ground. On automatics, the remaining "flag" terminal has a wire going down to the center contact on the neutral switch on the automatic to ground. On a stick that wire goes to the clutch pedal mounted switch

So take a meter/ test light and make sure the relay is getting power from the key in "start" and make sure the neutral switch is grounding. You can remove that wire, and ground that flag terminal temporarily to test it

HOW THE KEY works

Normally when you twist the key to start, the key also kills the "run" voltage to the ignition. That power is supplied by (older models) from a different contact on the ignition switch, feeding power in start to the coil + side of the ballast. On newer rigs, the start relay has a FIFTH terminal and it does that job, instead.

As said above, when you jumper the starter, that circuit does not engage, so you get a weak spark. Most vehicles, tho, in good shape, and tuned up will start that way

 

[Dana67Dart]

So take a meter/ test light and make sure the relay is getting power from the key in "start" and make sure the neutral switch is grounding

OP stated the relay was clicking. That indicates the NSS and Key is working properly.

when turning key all i get is starter solenoid clicking

 

[Kendog 170]

Dirty terminals can cause clicking as well. Just saying,

 

[volaredon]

I've had to replace the cables themselves on many of my Mopar vehicles cover the years. Cut the insulation off and they're all a green powder... And DON'T use those Mickey mouse cable ends where you strip the end and use a 2 bolt strap to hold the cable ends to the cable. About as useless as a Scotchlok

 

[dirty white boy]

cables are good,..terminals been cleaned good,.... new standerd starter relay ordered and on the way, wish me luck...DWB!

 

[volaredon]

How do you know the cables are good? Have you continuity tested them under load or stripped the insulation off of them for a look? (Then you'd have to replace them haha)
Last summer I was working on my 96 Dakota (much newer than yours) and I happened to see a bunch of corrosion at the starter and some insulation missing off the big wire at the starter, I barely (and I mean barely) touched the other wire and it snapped off at the starter. It wasn't a big deal at all to replace them. Though I have cable crimpers and heat shrink.
My 78 fury, 87 B250 van, 78 d200, 80aspen, both my diplomats, 93 wrangler, 79 d100, I had to replace the cables on all of these while I owned them, for internal corrosion (I don't own all of these anymore, just the fury and Dakota) when I had starting problems. And the problem on every case was "hidden" by the insulation. I slit the cables once removed and saw same thing on all of them. Some were as stiff as a twig. Not all. I can't remember ever having to replace a starter relay on a Mopar. I have ran couple of times with no improvement in issues. The only one that I ever remember a starter relay actually having a problem was on my son's 72 fury wagon.

 

[Kendog 170]

I just replaced my starter relay this past spring. Same issue. Turned out to be my positive terminal at battery which I cleaned posts and terminals. My fault for using cheap replacement terminals.