Steering column is hitting the headers and melting the plastic

-

67DodgeDart360

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 8, 2015
Messages
367
Reaction score
90
Location
Maryland
Steering column is hitting the headers and melting the plastic on the Steering column. I had a column shifter and I changed it to the hurst floor shifter. Does it need that white plastic piece In the column? I put a piece of aluminum next to it but it’s still too hot. What should I use? Please see picture. Thanks

09FB2185-CFC5-4947-A902-2D1E525FD5ED.jpeg
 
The best fix there would be to shorten the outer column tube and move the whole bearing assembly toward the firewall and cut the shifter lever off the inner tube.
 
The best fix there would be to shorten the outer column tube and move the whole bearing assembly toward the firewall and cut the shifter lever off the inner tube.
So can I take the outer metal and plastic out? And everything will still work?
 
No it needs the support bearing to work properly.
You comfortable with pulling the steering column?
 
Depending on the damage you may need one but if it still holds the bearing and bolts to the tube it would just be cosmetic.
 
Mark the column on the engine side of firewall where
it passes through the plate and once it’s out cut the outer tube square to leave about 1 1/2” out past the mark. Next remove the bolts from the plastic bearing support and remove it from the cut tube. Next split the short piece of the outer tube to remove it then slide the bearing support up the end of the tube and mark for the holes to bolt the bearing support in place.
 
I believe it’s called the lower column bearing support sleeve and think it may come as an assembly with the bearing in it but not sure about that.
 
Mark the column on the engine side of firewall where
it passes through the plate and once it’s out cut the outer tube square to leave about 1 1/2” out past the mark. Next remove the bolts from the plastic bearing support and remove it from the cut tube. Next split the short piece of the outer tube to remove it then slide the bearing support up the end of the tube and mark for the holes to bolt the bearing support in place.
Do you have any pictures that I could see?
 
Last edited:
Loosen the bolts on the column plate on the firewall and move the plate, column and all over to the left as far as it will go. Retighten the bolts.
 
Last edited:
Steering column is hitting the headers and melting the plastic on the Steering column. I had a column shifter and I changed it to the hurst floor shifter. Does it need that white plastic piece In the column? I put a piece of aluminum next to it but it’s still too hot. What should I use? Please see picture. Thanks

View attachment 1715556774
67,
After my rebuild/engine re-install I had the same problem. I had the steering column out also at the time. I had reinstalled it a bit wonky. Loosen the 2 bolts on the column flange and pull it away from the header, it does have some play. I was getting a lot of heat crawling up the column and heating everything big time. I also pulled out/back the white plastic retainer and crushed up some aluminum foil and packed it up in the tube and replaced the plastic end piece. No problems since.

FYI,
Marion
 
I have never understood why you "need" that lower bearing. Seems to me the coupler should be able to support itself. After all, U joints on a driveshaft don't have support bearings.................
 
either before or after shortening the tube you can try a thermal barrier too


They make and sell a nice app. Two inch header wrap and stainless clamps that I have used too. I still have a set of 1/4 inch steel plates that I made years ago that I used on the engine mounts to raise the engine a touch for another issue I had like this.
 
You can also shim motor mounts. Almost always need one 1/8", 1/4", or so, to move the engine away from stuff it is hitting on. I used a 1/4" thick "washer" on the left motor mount on my Dart, and it solved every clearance issue I was having. Sometimes it's not quite so easy.
 
52D785B4-AEFA-4118-B765-2EE241979A27.jpeg
32650B9F-3024-46EC-A895-992A195E466C.jpeg
You can also shim motor mounts. Almost always need one 1/8", 1/4", or so, to move the engine away from stuff it is hitting on. I used a 1/4" thick "washer" on the left motor mount on my Dart, and it solved every clearance issue I was having. Sometimes it's not quite so easy.


That’s what I said in the post above yours. I made these up over 40 years ago and used them on a couple of cars
 
-
Back
Top