Steering Coupler

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nodemon

nodemon

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How can you tell a steering coupler needs rebuilt..? Car is not on the road, so can't drive to feel or hear anything, if those are even symptoms. When I took mine apart and compared to the new rebuild kit, I can't really tell a difference in the components...except, the new dowel pin that the shoes fit on goes into the shaft without resistance. If I remember correctly, I had to press the original one out and it feels like it would need to be pressed back in. Any advice on what to look for would be appreciated. Thanks..!
 
Have someone move the steering wheel back and forth while you look at the coupler. It's obvious if it needs rebuilt.
 
toolmanmike said:
Have someone move the steering wheel back and forth while you look at the coupler. It's obvious if it needs rebuilt.
Click to expand...
Appreciate the reply, toolmanmike.!
Everything is apart and ready to be reassembled so wondering if there's anything visual that will tell me it's bad while apart.
 
The wear happens at a couple of places:
The pin wears in the shaft allowing it to be sloppy.
The holes of the two shoes wear and are sloppy on the pin- also not the pin can wear at that point as well.
Then the shoes wear in the housing. Side to side slop.
Those couplers are not 100% from the factory. Heck even the steering g gear wears and can be sloppy.
Syleng1
 
nodemon said:
How can you tell a steering coupler needs rebuilt..? Car is not on the road, so can't drive to feel or hear anything, if those are even symptoms. When I took mine apart and compared to the new rebuild kit, I can't really tell a difference in the components...except, the new dowel pin that the shoes fit on goes into the shaft without resistance. If I remember correctly, I had to press the original one out and it feels like it would need to be pressed back in. Any advice on what to look for would be appreciated. Thanks..!
Click to expand...
For what it costs and, the fact that you have a rebuild kit in hand, replace it. Way easier to do it now !
 
townsend said:
Is the pin you are trying to install solid or hollow.
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Solid. The factory pin is a lot tighter in the hole than the replacement... I think I'm going to use the OG guts and just replace the top seal.
 
Super-Cuda said:
For what it costs and, the fact that you have a rebuild kit in hand, replace it. Way easier to do it now !
Click to expand...
That's what I figured, but the replacement pin and shoes are loose fitting compared to the OG parts.
 
It should be a very tight fit and centered in steering shaft. What brand rebuild kit do you have?
 
Have heard of problems with Dorman kits.
To late for you but back in the 20th century, the dealer techs rarely changed the solid pin even though it came in the kit.
You can still find the Chrysler kits on eBay.
Part number 4443436ac.
Since Chrysler discontinued the part, they are hard to find and expensive.
 
townsend said:
Have heard of problems with Dorman kits.
To late for you but back in the 20th century, the dealer techs rarely changed the solid pin even though it came in the kit.
You can still find the Chrysler kits on eBay.
Part number 4443436ac.
Since Chrysler discontinued the part, they are hard to find and expensive.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the info..!
 
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