stiffening pieces to weld into frame

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moparmat2000

moparmat2000

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Hi Y'all

Im getting to the point on my build up that i want to start stiffening up the frame at all the points it flexes at. Already well along with a 2x3 subframe connector install. Thinking of buying the torque box plates front and rear from us car tool. Or fabricating these cheaper myself. I also ground down the crappy welds on my k frame, bolted it in place and rewelded it. And seam welded it all the way around, i also fitted and welded an 1/8" stiffening plate to the bottom center to stiffen up the K frame.

Anybody make a stiffening bar to weld to the front frame horns to tie them together . The lower half of my rad support is bent, was thinking of cutting it off and replacing it with a tubular support anyways.

Anybody make anything to stiffen up the upper A arm mounting areas to prevent or lessen flex in these areas.

Please let me know.
Matt
 
Badart on this forum makes stiffening pieces through his company http://www.dillingerchassis.com/. Lower radiator support and J bars to stiffen the front end. He also made me a set of shock tower to firewall braces, XV style. Probably not as good at stiffening up the front end as the J bars, but they go inside the fenders so you don't have to relocate your battery. Little more stealth too if you've got a more stock appearing car.


radiator-support-22.jpg



J-Bars3.jpg
 
Thanks. Can you tell me what the advantages are to the offset upper control arm bushings? How do you orient them in the arms?
 
The main advantage is to allow more positive caster. The original specs call for almost no positive caster, and most modern alignments call for +3 or more, which you typically can't get without offset bushings. The additional caster makes the car more stable at speed. I have close to +5 degrees on my Challenger, but I have Hotchkis UCA's. And you wouldn't want to go that high with manual steering either, as it will make it hard to turn.

This is how they should be oriented for more caster, its pretty much opposite of how the instructions tell you to install them (they were intended for something else).
 

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I actually have the Radiator support and inner fender supports that I am willing to sell if you want? I was going to use them, but decided to only use the J bars.
 
hey FST73 360

how much for the rad support, and inner fender supports shipped to TX 79606
 
us car tool is now making a body inner fender braces as well. They are similar in style to their e body ones. I am hoping to get mine installed soon.
 
moparmat2000 said:
now those look pretty stout. i like the lightening holes too. how much?
Click to expand...

Another place for dust and rust with the holes being there maybe. Have no problems with us car tool subframe connectors.
 
They include strategically placed drain holes in addition to the lightening holes, and they are $149 for the pair.
 
depending on the size of the holes, you can always use plastic body plugs. that should keep most of the dirt and crap out. i am looking at those and the dillinger ones they recommend for their coilover conversion. just trying to decide which ones i like better.
 
Ratrod85 said:
They include strategically placed drain holes in addition to the lightening holes, and they are $149 for the pair.
Click to expand...

They're nice pieces, but I noticed the holes on the bottom have bevels too. That means water can sit in them. Probably not a big issue, the holes should keep too much junk from collecting there, but I might add a couple of smaller non-beveled holes to drain water. Just a thought. Otherwise, I like how they look like the could have been stock, as opposed to the tubular versions, which look very aftermarket.
 
look closer at the pix, in the corners especially where the firewall and inner fender meet at the welded in brace, and where the shock tower meets the brace it looks like the metal is open on purpose for drainage in these 2 places. id personally just make those two holes slightly bigger. the dimpled or bevelled holes are there prob for 2 reasons, one for light weight, and to allow the area to dry out if it gets wet, and the bevel is to get the strength back up in the sheetmetal after punching a hole in it to lighten it up.

i see the bevelled holes in aircraft structures all the time, especially in fuselage former frames below the fuselage floor line so cables, wiring and ductwork can be run, and in wing ribs to lighten em up, run fuel lines, wiring for boost pumps, and maintain the strength of the part. this is why i like it it looks too cool, plus US car tools reputation for good stuff. id been waiting to see pix of that and their rad support.

im sure both the dillinger frame bars and the US car tool bars are both fine products and will do what you need them to do, its just a matter of what way you like it to be done. sheetmetal and a seam weld, or with tubular steel.

how about adding a set of "export braces" and a "monte carlo bar" both mid 60s mustang items. the concept which can be applied to our cars with chromemoly tubing and heim joints possibly? any other ideas on that one?
 
We have a brand new style core support coming out for all Mopars b,e and a bodies very soon. Also i here's a pic showing the drain hole locations in production version of inner fender brace.

dscn4147.jpg
 
how long before the new designed core support for the A body comes out? i had heard about these inner fender braces and A body core support for a while, and now am finally seeing pix of them for the first time.
 
I like the Monte Carlo bar tie in, the new Viper has an X support on top of the newest motor. Or old school J bar with shock tie-ins.
 
Square tube, or round tube? Anything else ?Whats different about it compared to your current ones?
 
Here is a pic of the 66-70 B-Body Core Support Stiffener. The A-body one will look very close.

dscn4257.jpg
 
Very nice! I like that a lot more than the tubular ones. I'm in.
 
Thanks!

They are $129, and the flared holes being welded to the original core support create the box.
 
The stiffener is made out of 12ga. which comes out to be around .109" thick. 1/8" material is .120" thick
 
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