stock 273 commando engine question

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Tadams

Tadams

Tadams
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I am pulling the motor to clean and paint and do the engine compartment as well. My question, when rotating the engine I noticed when the timing marks line up, the rotor points to # 2 cylinder. I double checked by pulling #1 to too dead cylinder and the rotor points to # 2 cylinder. Going to replace the timing chain tomorrow, but wonder why this would be.
 
When the last guy put the intermediate shaft in it was a tooth off. Then instead of putting a large screwdriver in the slot and rotating it till it was right, he just rotated the wires and hopefully timed it correctly.
 
Yes sir, have a new set of brass plugs in the garage
 
66fs said:
When the last guy put the intermediate shaft in it was a tooth off. Then instead of putting a large screwdriver in the slot and rotating it till it was right, he just rotated the wires and hopefully timed it correctly.
Click to expand...
That's one option,for sure.
You can put the rotor in anywhere you want,then re-sync the wires,no big deal. It's easier to get custom-fit wires to fit tho, if the rotor is where it's supposed to be.
 
With #1 on TDC the rotor should point to the front intake bolt on the drivers side, #1
 
I understand Mike, but it is pointing to number two. I'll be putting a new timing chain tomorrow and see what I find
 
Tadams said:
I understand Mike, but it is pointing to number two. I'll be putting a new timing chain tomorrow and see what I find
Click to expand...
Change the timing set if you must. Make sure #1 is up on compression stroke and all lines up properly. Search and study up if you don't know fore sure.
 
I don't know, but was changing it anyway. The motor ran very well and using a vacuum gauge, the vacuum was steady and in the proper range. That is what has me puzzled
 
#2 is the last cylinder of the firing order. Unless it was hard to start and ran like poop, the distributor gear is probably a tooth off as stated earlier.
 
#2 and #1 are side by side in firing order. Are you sure its #2? You traced the wire from dist cap to #2 plug?

Edit Mike beat me to it.
 
You can put the distributor in any way as long as you start out on #1 and the distributor firing order starts where the rotor is pointing and goes the correct direction and firing order.
 
I think what's being said is that the tower on the cap, that is occasionally marked "1", is only valid if the dizzy is installed the way the factory would have installed it.
In the field, any tower can be #1, if the rotor is underneath it, and the coil is correctly triggered at the same time
 
Found out the timing chain was really sloppy. Had jumped one tooth. Have nice new double timing chain and water pump. Hope to paint tomorrow if the weather holds up.
 
Fyi double check and compare bosses for ps and alt on your new water pump. My new wp they were thicker and required grinding. I have ps tho.
Tadams said:
Found out the timing chain was really sloppy. Had jumped one tooth. Have nice new double timing chain and water pump. Hope to paint tomorrow if the weather holds up.
Click to expand...
 
Having trouble removing freeze plugs. One came out easy but the second doesn't wish to come out.
 
With the engine out, a heel-bar,(aka; crow-foot pry-bar), makes short work of it.
The heel-bar has never let me down.Just push the top or bottom into the water jacket, and pry it out, using the opposite side. It has happened to me that the entire plug went into the jacket, no biggie, the heel bar popped it right back out.
I'm not a fan of using a cylinder wall as a pressure point for a screw.
I once saw a guy use a large Channel-loc plier instead of the heel-bar. That worked like a charm too.
 
Thanks, it seems like these plugs are frozen in. They are certainly not brass like the new ones
 
BTW
In my experience, it is better to punch it all the way into the water jacket with a big socket and then to pull it out sideways with a heel-bar;
than it is to; punch holes in it with a screwdriver and then try to fish it out thru the just-made-hole.
 
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