Stock 318 building with Justin

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MOPAROFFICIAL

MOPAROFFICIAL

Oogliboogli
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For those of you who don't know me by first name...I'm Justin, nice to meet you... I'll be your host and tour guide for a little back to basics budget stock'ish 318 rebuild for my brother in law. This motor is going into a ram charger, 1985 model, but it doesnt know or care and could just as easily go into a dart or valiant..so I'm sharing it here.
After reading the model year I'm sure a few thoughts and questions are...

"you know it's a roller block ?" Yes.

"Are you going to put a roller in it?" No.

"Are you going to use the 302 heads...?"
Hell no!
Last thing I want is him having pull it apart over pos cracked head.
I'm using the #593 casting open chamber 318 heads with air injection ports.
I will do my usual porting and post the numbers and pics as I go.

That out of the way...

So let's get to the build and the parts lot. When you look online at engine kits...you either get a good deal at the cost of name brand parts for generic or 'off brands'...or you're not getting the essentials like a oil pump or timing chain...
My typical go to's are Mancini racing and Northern Auto Parts, ebay, partspro for kits, but nothing was very complete in most of them... So i bought from a few places and came up with this list and parts and saved in the process.

King CS527BB cam bearings 29.99 bucks
Engine pro main/rod bearings 52.00 'they sub'd in full groove clevites-bonus.
Melling m72 oil pump 42.10
SummitG6603R9/78103-9R timing chain 50.00
Durabond hardware kit FKP-1 19.99
Pioneer Brass freeze plugs 17.99
Sealed power 526A .030 pistons 105.00
Engine tech moly rings 43.99
Enginetech master gasket set CR318-29 Includes 360 intake/exhaust thick style..bonus. 54.00

All together parts came out to around 430.00

Head recon 400.00 with hard seats/guides seals ,milled etc..
Block machining, mag,cleaned, bore/hone cleaned again..cam bearings installed 250.00
Crank ground 90.00
Rods resized 80.00
Press on rods 60.00
Balance job...waiting on piston back order till 5/4...probably won't be much at all with these stock replace pistons...maybe 120.00 if that much, we'll see...

I'll be picking it all up once the pistons get here so the balance can be done...then pics of all of it going together.
Cheap and reliable with a little extra.

20200427_124048.jpg
 
I've had good luck with Northern going back to the early 90's. If you don't see it or want a kit a certain way just call them.
 
Absolutely.i bought a 7.3 international master kit from there as well as many cams, gaskets over the years.
I'm selective with parts and for what I wanted I believe i got the better price.


dano said:
I've had good luck with Northern going back to the early 90's. If you don't see it or want a kit a certain way just call them.
Click to expand...
 
oldkimmer said:
It’s gonna be an awesome build. Kim
Click to expand...
Thanks. I think so.
This also sheds a little light on the this particular brand of rings and how they incorporate their moly layer/coating.
Plasma vs plated or however they do it.. main thing or diff is..These rings are coated,completely...Meanwhile a hastings moly top is grooved into the rings face and filled with the moly, layered looking. So these engine tech rings have a silver look to them because electro plated type..? Couldnt be worse than an iron ring, right.
A engintech moly top ring on ..and an iron second ring below it.

20200427_140218.jpg
 
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Great build with a solid plan, thank you for posting! Looking forward to seeing flow numbers, assembled deck height, and compression.
 
Garrett Ellison said:
Great build with a solid plan, thank you for posting! Looking forward to seeing flow numbers, assembled deck height, and compression.
Click to expand...
The trickiest part is the cam . California smog is our opponent. There isn't much, on the surface, for C.A.R.B approved performance camshafts.
Most people barely pass with a comp 256... barely is not the goal, so I'm placing careful attention in that area as well as the heads.
 
Didn't see a cam listed in your parts what is your plan on that?

Please forgive me for being a little slow on the postings.
 
Jadaharabi said:
Didn't see a cam listed in your parts what is your plan on that?
Click to expand...

Not much off the shelf cams that look good for this. Custom probably, maybe not.

I imagine something like...420 lift and 252 duration, being he will commute a lot. I'm going to talk to 3 grinders I deal with and compare.
 
Jadaharabi said:
Didn't see a cam listed in your parts what is your plan on that?

Please forgive me for being a little slow on the postings.
Click to expand...
Lol
Same.
I just spoke with Kevin at Schneider
.420 lift
256/261 duration
112
100-110 seat...and whatever open, like 260-270.
Basically a stock 340 valve spring will work.
We discussed comp crap and how they're 256 is so fast its noisy and more like a 270 with amount of hydro carbons coming out.
Most people can barely pass smog if they do. Comp crap sucks. Basically echoing many experiences I've had.

Word of advice, dont buy from pypez exhaust, so sick of their stupid logo. Lol
 
I didn’t even want to ask about the cam yet figuring that it would be based solely upon head flow. There are some stock 360 grinds that are close to those numbers that may come close to the emissions goal, but “close enough” probably ain’t gonna do it with California emissions, lol!
 
Justin time
Jones maybe 256 @.006 but is shorter actual seat than anything else in the 250 class
I have the .004 @264 and .002 somewhere it is really short @.002- .305ish lobe lift 460ish with stock rockers
will pass ca smog mine did with 112lca
pick ex lobe based on flow and exhaust
run lube saver type lifters with the flat ground on the side oem buick and chevy v6 style
crower and rhodes have them pm dart19666
the only shelf cam would be the 700 -701 lunati
mines set up with isky duals set up tall to get spring pressure where I want it ( We were Isky WD
doing it again I'd use beehives and ll/32 or 8 mm valves
u can run stock rockers
 
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Garrett Ellison said:
I didn’t even want to ask about the cam yet figuring that it would be based solely upon head flow. There are some stock 360 grinds that are close to those numbers that may come close to the emissions goal, but “close enough” probably ain’t gonna do it with California emissions, lol!
Click to expand...
It could peak at .500 or .600..but you cant lift the valve that much on smoger cam with crummy outdated smog equipment.lol
Really, this one of the worst because mid eighties brought us feed back carbs ,o2, transition to tbi... and early vapor evap bs.
You might not learn anything exciting.

California air resource board is the modern day version of the inquisition.

We'll see.
 
They 'w/1.78' tend to be within 10 cfm of peak by .450 lift =195-198cfm

Let it be known I'm not going to absolutely squeeze every potential hp within such constraints out of this 318, not gonna happen on this budget . I'm not dynoing it to even know for sure...though he may chassis dyno it.. more overkill.lol The heads even touching the flow bench is even overkill.

Its gonna be the better, by a bit, than a factory stock 318.
 
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Probably be pretty close performance wise to a 5.2 magnum with a base edelbrock performer adapted to the magnum heads and a mild performance advance distributor. I really feel for you with the emissions standards there and find myself hoping we’re not about to be legislated into a similar or worse set of standards to abide by under our self appointed tyranny.
 
check the.200 duration should be 120 or better with a 256 cam or you are leaving torque on a table
less 200 has to spin faster to get the same flow or run more seat duration or both
you woud be better off with an HR evev a stock HR
than a HFT with only 100-110@200
(given the grunt/ 4x4/ smog etc
 
Wyrmrider said:
check the.200 duration should be 120 or better with a 256 cam or you are leaving torque on a table
less 200 has to spin faster to get the same flow or run more seat duration or both
you woud be better off with an HR evev a stock HR
than a HFT with only 100-110@200
(given the grunt/ 4x4/ smog etc
Click to expand...

I'll ask for the range.
204/208 is the @.050 dur.
I don't want noisey lifters.
 
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