Stock rollers/aftermarket cam

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mshred

mshred

The Green Manalishi
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Hey guys,

i just picked up a 91 360 roller block (LA) and it is in running shape from what i have been told. Being that its already a roller block, i would like to keep it roller cam for when i build it up...my question though stems from not knowing much about rollers, so bear with me...would the stock rollers which are hydraulic be able to handle say a 550 liftish cam, give or take a little higher or lower than that? where do you decide that the aftermarket rollers are nesecessary? and can i use the factory spider with aftermarket rollers?

also, just out of curiosity, what is needed to be able to run a solid roller over the hydraulic roller in my block, or is that not enough benefit to warrant switching over

thanks!
Matthew
 
yes you can run hydraulic roller cam with .550 lift with the OEM lifters...

to run a solid roller a solid roller cam and solid roller lifters are needed

the OEM roller blocks saves you money on the hydraulic roller cam set up ...anything else is going to cost the same as a non roller block.
 
Good to know. I picked up a 318 roller block with LA heads for free not too long ago. I am saving it for a stroker build.
 
I know Brian at IMM sells a set of drop in roller lifters for the LA, which is what i thought i would need...but basically, as long as the stock roller lifters are working ok and are in good shape, i can reuse them with whatever hydraulic roller i choose? is it recommended that i replace the lifters upon rebuilding the engine, even if i just replace with stock replacement style ones? im just wondering what makes one type of roller lifter better than the other to warrant buying aftermarket ones

thanks!
 
I replace the lifters as a matter or course, but I use factory relplacements because some of the performance ones can be noisey. The factory ones are tighter and quieter.
 
moper said:
I replace the lifters as a matter or course, but I use factory relplacements because some of the performance ones can be noisey. The factory ones are tighter and quieter.
Click to expand...

Agreed. I got the "performance" OE style ones from Hughes, part HUG 5006 HYD ROLLER LIFTER SB MOPAR 16.00 $140.00 and never could get the preload right (roller rockers) to eliminate all of the noise. Went back with the Mopar Performance OE style rollers, and it is quieter. And cheaper as well! Part number DCC-5249862 SBM MAGNUM ROLLER LIFTERS (16) $116.95 from Summit.

Could not tell a diff in power between the 2.

They are on my Comp Cams 236-242 .541 lift hyd roller cam. My valve preload is set to 0 + 1.5 turns, FWIW.
 
Great thread, lots of good information.

What about the valve springs? How much can these rollers take? Is there a difference in the spring needs of the hydraulic roller, and a normal hydraulic lifter?

I have considered putting my J heads on the roller motor, and it already has some pretty stout MP valve springs.
 
Truth be told, the magnum hyraulic rollers are very good and will take a LOT of abuse.
I am living proof!!!! You can reuse them over and over again too as long as they hold oil and the roller bearings operate smoothly, I wouldnt worry about it. Clean them up nice and run 'em...or get brand new ones from mancini for around 120-140 bucks, something like that. They're cheap, and they hold up just fine. The beauty of an OE hytdraulic roller block is that the OE lifters are cheap and good stuff, as opposed to the retrofits that are pretty expensive.

Also, you can get a lot more lift than that by going to a decent lift cam and then stepping up the rocker ratio...only limit is piston to valve and how the head is set up.
 
moper said:
I replace the lifters as a matter or course, but I use factory relplacements because some of the performance ones can be noisey. The factory ones are tighter and quieter.
Click to expand...

moper, what stock replacement ones do you usually use? do you have a part number for them?

jimmyray said:
Agreed. I got the "performance" OE style ones from Hughes, part HUG 5006 HYD ROLLER LIFTER SB MOPAR 16.00 $140.00 and never could get the preload right (roller rockers) to eliminate all of the noise. Went back with the Mopar Performance OE style rollers, and it is quieter. And cheaper as well! Part number DCC-5249862 SBM MAGNUM ROLLER LIFTERS (16) $116.95 from Summit.

Could not tell a diff in power between the 2.

They are on my Comp Cams 236-242 .541 lift hyd roller cam. My valve preload is set to 0 + 1.5 turns, FWIW.
Click to expand...

thats some good info, thanks!

HemiEd said:
Great thread, lots of good information.

What about the valve springs? How much can these rollers take? Is there a difference in the spring needs of the hydraulic roller, and a normal hydraulic lifter?

I have considered putting my J heads on the roller motor, and it already has some pretty stout MP valve springs.
Click to expand...

thats a good question im interested in too...I was thinking of running the RHS heads that Brian at IMM sells prepped, but its not set in stone...regardless, is there any specific spring needs?

POS Dakota said:
Truth be told, the magnum hyraulic rollers are very good and will take a LOT of abuse.
I am living proof!!!! You can reuse them over and over again too as long as they hold oil and the roller bearings operate smoothly, I wouldnt worry about it. Clean them up nice and run 'em...or get brand new ones from mancini for around 120-140 bucks, something like that. They're cheap, and they hold up just fine. The beauty of an OE hytdraulic roller block is that the OE lifters are cheap and good stuff, as opposed to the retrofits that are pretty expensive.

Also, you can get a lot more lift than that by going to a decent lift cam and then stepping up the rocker ratio...only limit is piston to valve and how the head is set up.
Click to expand...

that is exactly what id like to do is reuse them if they are still good...nonetheless, it doesnt hurt to replace them with brand new ones considering they are only a little over 100 bucks

one question i do have though, are you guys putting back in the factory spiders as well? or do you leave them out? do they not fit with an aftermarket intake?


thanks for all the help so far!
 
Spiders....you mean the link bar things and the steel ratainer plate that bolts into the lifter valley? If so yeah, that will work with anything as far as I know. I cant see why it wouldnt. ANd you have to use it. It holds the link bars on the lifters. Without it a lifter could turn and you could have A BAD DAY!

The beehive springs Brian supplies with the RHS head are more than fine for the factory Hydraulic roller lifter.
 
POS Dakota said:
Spiders....you mean the link bar things and the steel ratainer plate that bolts into the lifter valley? If so yeah, that will work with anything as far as I know. I cant see why it wouldnt. ANd you have to use it. It holds the link bars on the lifters. Without it a lifter could turn and you could have A BAD DAY!

The beehive springs Brian supplies with the RHS head are more than fine for the factory Hydraulic roller lifter.
Click to expand...

yes, the link bar things...i see people calling them spiders, so i thought thats what they were referred as...thanks for the info man, much appreciated!
 
I didnt know they call them spiders. lol Maybe it's me!
Yeah you need them. they keep the lifters from spinning and the plate keeps them from coming off the lifters.
 
dog bones and spiders is what the parts are called..

dog bones hold the lifter in the bore...spider bolt into the lifter valley and holds the dog bones in place
 
Pic of lifters, dogbone and spider. Clever, really, and cheap to make!

Pic06.jpg
 
Sorry M, I had a busy weekend. I got mine from PAW... They were SSI, but really anyone's stock replacements will be the same part. The biggest difference is the MP ones (or factory stockers from the dealer which might be cheaper..) have the paint daub that marks the "top". All you have to remember is the hole in the lifter (down in the oil groove of the outer body) has to point towards the valley side of the lifter bore.
 
moper said:
Sorry M, I had a busy weekend. I got mine from PAW... They were SSI, but really anyone's stock replacements will be the same part. The biggest difference is the MP ones (or factory stockers from the dealer which might be cheaper..) have the paint daub that marks the "top". All you have to remember is the hole in the lifter (down in the oil groove of the outer body) has to point towards the valley side of the lifter bore.
Click to expand...

no worries man, thanks for that tidbit of info!
 
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