Stop in for a cup of coffee
- Thread starter toolmanmike
- Start date
-
That green car is almost too nice to drive in the salt. I don't know if its possible to totally protect it even with careful repainting and something like Waxoyl in the places that can't be painted.
@Tooljunkie @toolmanmike Wagoneer's alternator is putting out proper power now.
Not sure what I did to fix it.
When I got to the garage I started with the Barracuda since I had to move it. Regulator is definately not working after start up. Giving it a bit of gas (1500-1800 rpm) and it would go to 17 Volts at the regulator's connector. After a few minutes it seems to cut off around 15 Volts. That's measured across regulator so that's the voltage its seeing inside. Not seeing any voltage drops between the regulator housing and the battery neg.
I have another regulator but they're bloody expensive to be going through every year or so.
On the Wagoneer the first things I did was put the battery on the fancy charger. Then adjusted the belt tension and then retorque all of the bracket bolts through the water pump. That needed to be done anyway since I erred on the safe side yesterday.
Not satisfied with that, I thought it would be worth checking resistance in the alternator wires. Field (some call exciter) had 15.2 ohms which is about right and the others were 1/2 Ohm or less.
Fired it up and started checking current at the battery negative (nothing not sure why) and then went back to the same method I used the other day; measuring at the alternator out. Kept adding load and Voltage stayed the same.
27.4 Amps, 14.3 V at 680 rrpm with heater fan on max and headlights.
I should be happy but instead I'm kicking myself for not seperating out the testing. Now i don't know if it was the belt tension, the battery too low to get the field juiced up, or a poor connection that I temporarily 'fixed'.
It was nice to drive home and not have the power switch over to battery everytime I came to a stop.
@Tooljunkie @toolmanmike Wagoneer's alternator is putting out proper power now.
When I got to the garage I started with the Barracuda since I had to move it. Regulator is definately not working after start up. Giving it a bit of gas (1500-1800 rpm) and it would go to 17 Volts at the regulator's connector. After a few minutes it seems to cut off around 15 Volts. That's measured across regulator so that's the voltage its seeing inside. Not seeing any voltage drops between the regulator housing and the battery neg.
On the Wagoneer the first things I did was put the battery on the fancy charger. Then adjusted the belt tension and then retorque all of the bracket bolts through the water pump. That needed to be done anyway since I erred on the safe side yesterday.
Not satisfied with that, I thought it would be worth checking resistance in the alternator wires. Field (some call exciter) had 15.2 ohms which is about right and the others were 1/2 Ohm or less.
Fired it up and started checking current at the battery negative (nothing not sure why) and then went back to the same method I used the other day; measuring at the alternator out. Kept adding load and Voltage stayed the same.
27.4 Amps, 14.3 V at 680 rrpm with heater fan on max and headlights.
I should be happy but instead I'm kicking myself for not seperating out the testing. Now i don't know if it was the belt tension, the battery too low to get the field juiced up, or a poor connection that I temporarily 'fixed'.
It was nice to drive home and not have the power switch over to battery everytime I came to a stop.
That green car is almost too nice to drive in the salt. I don't know if its possible to totally protect it even with careful repainting and something like Waxoyl in the places that can't be painted.
@Tooljunkie @toolmanmike Wagoneer's alternator is putting out proper power now. View attachment 1715285325 Not sure what I did to fix it. View attachment 1715285326
When I got to the garage I started with the Barracuda since I had to move it. Regulator is definately not working after start up. Giving it a bit of gas (1500-1800 rpm) and it would go to 17 Volts at the regulator's connector. After a few minutes it seems to cut off around 15 Volts. That's measured across regulator so that's the voltage its seeing inside. Not seeing any voltage drops between the regulator housing and the battery neg. View attachment 1715285327 I have another regulator but they're bloody expensive to be going through every year or so.
On the Wagoneer the first things I did was put the battery on the fancy charger. Then adjusted the belt tension and then retorque all of the bracket bolts through the water pump. That needed to be done anyway since I erred on the safe side yesterday.
Not satisfied with that, I thought it would be worth checking resistance in the alternator wires. Field (some call exciter) had 15.2 ohms which is about right and the others were 1/2 Ohm or less.
Fired it up and started checking current at the battery negative (nothing not sure why) and then went back to the same method I used the other day; measuring at the alternator out. Kept adding load and Voltage stayed the same.
27.4 Amps, 14.3 V at 680 rrpm with heater fan on max and headlights.
I should be happy but instead I'm kicking myself for not seperating out the testing. Now i don't know if it was the belt tension, the battery too low to get the field juiced up, or a poor connection that I temporarily 'fixed'.
It was nice to drive home and not have the power switch over to battery everytime I came to a stop.
This sometimes helps! Sounds like you are on top of it.
Belt tension. Didnt i mention that the other day? I was thinking it for sure..That green car is almost too nice to drive in the salt. I don't know if its possible to totally protect it even with careful repainting and something like Waxoyl in the places that can't be painted.
@Tooljunkie @toolmanmike Wagoneer's alternator is putting out proper power now. View attachment 1715285325 Not sure what I did to fix it. View attachment 1715285326
When I got to the garage I started with the Barracuda since I had to move it. Regulator is definately not working after start up. Giving it a bit of gas (1500-1800 rpm) and it would go to 17 Volts at the regulator's connector. After a few minutes it seems to cut off around 15 Volts. That's measured across regulator so that's the voltage its seeing inside. Not seeing any voltage drops between the regulator housing and the battery neg. View attachment 1715285327 I have another regulator but they're bloody expensive to be going through every year or so.
On the Wagoneer the first things I did was put the battery on the fancy charger. Then adjusted the belt tension and then retorque all of the bracket bolts through the water pump. That needed to be done anyway since I erred on the safe side yesterday.
Not satisfied with that, I thought it would be worth checking resistance in the alternator wires. Field (some call exciter) had 15.2 ohms which is about right and the others were 1/2 Ohm or less.
Fired it up and started checking current at the battery negative (nothing not sure why) and then went back to the same method I used the other day; measuring at the alternator out. Kept adding load and Voltage stayed the same.
27.4 Amps, 14.3 V at 680 rrpm with heater fan on max and headlights.
I should be happy but instead I'm kicking myself for not seperating out the testing. Now i don't know if it was the belt tension, the battery too low to get the field juiced up, or a poor connection that I temporarily 'fixed'.
It was nice to drive home and not have the power switch over to battery everytime I came to a stop.
Aparrently every mechanic is supposed to have one. Only to use during phone calls. You know, what do you think is wrong? Phone calls...
Yes you did. That's why I called you out. or what do the yung uns say "A shout out"
Of the things I did, that seems to be the most likely.
Next most likely is the battery charging. My understanding of the SI alternators is the field gets power from whichever is higher voltage, the battery or the diode trio. So my thinking is if the battery is low, the field never really develops any strength.
Not saying my understanding is correct.
Really didn't help when the Tappet brothers made a regular hour of humourously helping people who called in, many describing or imitating the noises their problem car was making.
Didn't like the show or its premise for a long time.
Eventually grew to see some humor in it.
It depends on what's wrong and what caliper. I've never managed to get the K-H fixed caliper piston's back in. A couple of guys here have it down pat, but I've tried several times and no go. Another issue now with those is the chroming on the pistons has been shoddy in recent years.
If you've got Bendix 4 piston calipers the core charge is high because they are rare. Use yours if they aren't ruined. See if someone makes stainless steel pistons or brass sleeve them if need be. Then bleed the brakes every Spring.
That's the way it went on the Wagoneer's sliding calipers. Fortunately there was still a local parts store close by. They had a Cardone rebuild waiting for me when I got there. Fugly looking but they worked.
Crack them with the best fitting wrench you've got. I'll sometimes use a 6 sided socket. After that can use an open end or box wrench.
Advance is now combined with Carquest. Not sure if that will increase your odds but it might. You need a real parts store. One with at least couple warehouses they can get stuff from. I know. They've become rare.
Yup. I'd say thats his problem to solve.
Bleeders are like a idle mixture screw in a carburetor. Most rebuilds have different bleeders than the oem ones. The rebuilders just drill them out, tap and install a new bleeder screw regardless of what it was made fore. Heck, the threads could be the next size up but the bleeder might be metric thread from a Toyota.
There are bleeder repair kits, drill and tap to 1/8” npt. A bleeder is threaded into adapter.
Hey Mike. Looks like another thread started just for your entertainment.
Yes, Just for You.
Engine bench test
Yes, Just for You.
Engine bench test
Just read it. I think it will go nowhere.
Just rebuild them easy to do usually even if you have a
A flat o ring and a dust boot for each piston. Just clean up the reservoir part does not mater as long as it does not hit and RA has new pistons in the universal site if needed. Oh yeah and new bleaders with anti seize on the thread and sealing surface.
We will see if the OP will understand. I hope.
A little hub-bub going on at FBBO. A car deal gone bad and a few mods want to get involved. No No No. No can do!
Says so right in the sale rules.
Says so right in the sale rules.
Well just left for good the RV forum I had just joined. Some *** hat told me "you are going to kill someone driving that fast" with my 5th wheel. 70MPH was what they were crying over. Jeezzz.
And lots agreed with the *** hat...
That's funny Tim!
Ddaddy
Just doing what I do
A package Mopar never made...
They are almost as bad as the FRRO forum. Used to go there but no more. Holy hell raise a crap load or hate when I put solar panels on my RV. Almost as bad as a 100 point build with poly bushings!
Nice!
zkx14
Duster De-ruster
-
