STORING A FRESH BLOCK

-
CFD244

CFD244

"THE NEW OLDSMOBILES ARE IN EARLY THIS YEAR"
FABO Gold Member
Joined
Sep 7, 2017
Messages
4,716
Reaction score
6,700
Location
Northern Ontario, Canada
Hi Folks

Any suggestions for extended storage of a fresh 340 block? Block has been bored and honed to.040, new cam bearings, square decked, and the crank ground 10/10. The engine will not be needed for a year or so, and I am a little reluctant to build it and let it sit completed. Looking for some input on how best to store it while avoiding rust. What say ye all? Thanks.

EDIT: Th machine shop advised not to wrap it in plastic as it will condense inside. He wiped the fresh machining with engine oil, but I doubt that will last long term.
 
Last edited:
Please rust inhibitor, expensive stuff but the best I have found. Only bad thing about it is the block will need a good cleaning. Wax based I believe, looks like wax as it goes on and dries.
 
Fluid Film, LPS3, cosmoline, axle grease, and a super dry location. Dehumidified, constant temp, etc.

Any of the greases or films should work. Thicker is better. Controlling moisture will be just as important though. Keep it well above the dew point and water won't condense. Constant temps also helps, and low humidity always helps too.

If it's going to be a year or less, fluid Film alone is probably fine. More than a year, I'd be putting on fluid film and then slathering with grease. I'd also warm the block to 70 degrees or so before applying anything - helps ensure no surface moisture getting trapped.

When storing freshly machined parts at work, we just use wd40 but parts tend to get consumed in 6months or less. Parts stored longer get LPS3 and anti corrosion paper, but they're stored in climate controlled warehouses too.
 
Fluid film it, bag it, strap it to a hand truck, put it in your basement next to your furnace, keep it warm
 
put thick plastic sheet into a crate, add the block and crank and fill with cheap oil. fit top to crate and leave to marinade for 1-2 years or until you're ready to build.:lol:
 
Paint the outside of the block with epoxy primer and spray all bare surfaces with Fluid Film. You can buy the Fluid Film at O'Reilly's. Shrink wrap it and then store it in a dry place......like your side of the bedroom closet! Do the crank the same way.
 
Rust-veto 342 if you want to store it until the end of time. It is legitimately the old-school cosmoline.
Rust-veto 4214 works well if you're storing for a couple years, and doesn't have extensive removal needs because it goes on about like WD-40 and dries to thin waxy film.
 
We used a lot of LPS3 on stuff we rebuilt in the steel mill and the storing conditions were terrible. I’m new to the Fluid Film game but from What I’ve seen so far it would work great too. For cleaning prep and short time storage I personally use transmission fluid on engine blocks.
 
Use ATF for rust prevention. Does not need to be new. When I drain old trans fluid, I keep some for rust proofing.
ATF will not dry out like engine oil. Problem with grease is if it gets smeared [ unknowingly ], you have unprotected metal. A fluid will cover the spot.
 
If you use NOX Rust, you can leave it outside in the shed
 
My mate used to store his motor bike in the living room. The lino floor made it easy to clean up the oil leaks [ British m/c ]....
 
CFD244 said:
Hi Folks

Any suggestions for extended storage of a fresh 340 block? Block has been bored and honed to.040, new cam bearings, square decked, and the crank ground 10/10. The engine will not be needed for a year or so, and I am a little reluctant to build it and let it sit completed. Looking for some input on how best to store it while avoiding rust. What say ye all? Thanks.

EDIT: Th machine shop advised not to wrap it in plastic as it will condense inside. He wiped the fresh machining with engine oil, but I doubt that will last long term.
Click to expand...
Paint it. Everything. Prep the block like you would for maximum adhesion. Oven cleaner works well. Dry, wipe and dust spray immediately. Paint all your machined surfaces. Rust o leom. When you're ready to build it. The paint is easily removed from the machined surfaces with lacquer thinner or brake cleaner...
 
RustyRatRod said:
Hose it down with Fluid Film and bag it up.
Click to expand...
I would like to add, Keep it out of the elements. Any kind of dry air works best. Not a back yard shed. A AC or dehumidifier in a garage or room works best. Should not have a condensation issue if you have dry air. I also agree with others, rebuild it now so you don't have to freshen it up later. At least the Short Block with oil pan on.
 
Thanks to everyone who chimed in. I soaked her down good with Fluid film and covered it with a piece of plastic and a sheet. Once the heat gets fired up in the shop, humidity drops to 20%....Hell, POR 15 takes a week to set up in the shop during heating season. I would love to build it now, but I am worried what might go on inside the engine in the year it will take me to get it fired. Thanks again everyone, you folks are the best! :thumbsup:

BTW.......After reading a few of the recent posts about cam fitting, I tried sliding her in. It fit, and turned perfectly......
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top