Storing a running engine

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plumkrazee70

plumkrazee70

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Hi Everyone,

I have a rebuilt 340 that has been broke in and driven approx 100 miles. I want to remove the engine and start body and paint work. That being said, I am not sure how long all that will take.

I was planning on building a rolling cart (seen on the forum) to set the motor on, leave the motor complete minus headers and seal up the exhaust ports, plus bag it.

Is there anything else I should do? I am concerned because my shop isn't insulated, but I am not sure if that matters.

Thanks for the help.
 
Bring it in the house and set it in a spare room. That's really the only way unless you have a climate controlled garage.
 
Back off rocker shafts to allow valves to close and take tension off valve springs
 
If its in the car and running, fog it with the stuff they use in boats, it really coats the cylinder walls and valves good, also remove the rocker arms.
 
There is no way I would ask my wife to store an engine in the house, for the simple fact is she would want to store her stuff in the garage.
 
sireland67 said:
There is no way I would ask my wife to store an engine in the house, for the simple fact is she would want to store her stuff in the garage.
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Haha. we have lots of storage around the property, so that is not a problem. Problem is nothing is heated. I do have an outbuilding that is insulated, but it still gets chilly. 50* or so.
 
Is Medford west of the Cascades? Then yeah, a lot of moisture. 'twould be a lot easier over east of the cascades. BTW, when piston aircraft engines are stored, there is a special oil used to fill the cylinders to prevent rust. You would have to invert the engine on a stand to get it out of a V8. Might be worth looking into.

Also, if it is running engine, you ought to turn it off before storing...LOL
 
plumkrazee70 said:
We do have a pretty big walk in closet. I wonder if my wife will let me store it in there.
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Really not a bad idea. I have my fresh built Ford 400 short block in our spare bedroom. It will be a complete engine soon. Then I will need help with the hand truck. LOL
 
It gets colder than crap here in the winter, I have stored many a motor in un-heated places.
I made these to seal off the exhaust ports, just use header gaskets and bolts.
They are made from 3/16 aluminum that I sheared to length and width at work, used a 3" cut off wheel to clearance the spark plugs.
I also leave the carb lift point on the motor, I use it with an old carb gasket, taped in the center to keep any moisture out.

wqCtMN.jpg
 
sireland67 said:
It gets colder than crap here in the winter, I have stored many a motor in un-heated places.
I made these to seal off the exhaust ports, just use header gaskets and bolts.
They are made from 3/16 aluminum that I sheared to length and width at work, used a 3" cut off wheel to clearance the spark plugs.
I also leave the carb lift point on the motor, I use it with an old carb gasket, taped in the center to keep any moisture out.

wqCtMN.jpg
Click to expand...

Do you do anything else, maintenance wise?
 
Take the rocker arms, push rods out.
 
True, but it could turn real nasty if sombody turned the crank with everything loose.
 
70aarcuda said:
just back off the shafts....
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Yes ^^^^^^^^^^

Thats what I did and covered the carb. Sat for 25 years like that, 10 outside and 15 in a 10x20 storage locker. Inside the motor looked like new when I pulled the intake and heads to check it 25 years later! Motor runs as good or better than it did when I put it away.
 
OK, So I added the fogging oil since the motor was still in the car and running. Put in 2 oz at a high RPM - 2500 or so. Then immediately shut it down.

I am going to remove the rocker shafts & pushrods as mentioned and bag it all up. Do I need to bother with turning the crank every month or so?
 
Dude, it's an engine; not a child. Bag it and tag it, throw it in the corner and get to sanding.
 
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