Street Cruser

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my68barracuda

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Putting this motor together this week, going into the 68 Barracuda. The goal is a healthy street performance car that I can drive to and run on the strip. I know that multi tasking can be a chore, but I also want to try an autocross or two. I don’t have reservations of being a class winner in either, but I do want to drive the car to the track, race it, and drive it back home.
Photos and motor details:

96170CD8-089B-4359-AEC9-C05C99F4B324.jpeg


4C44E542-1170-46C2-B470-4D733A0784FC.jpeg


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* The block, head and crank are last year 1987 parts. The case was line bored, pistons, rings matched to the bores.
* KB 239 1 mm oversized 2.2 l pistons
* K1 cast crank long rods
* King bearings
* Ported aluminum oil pump with NOS internals
* I-J twin crank scrapers
* Mopar Performance windage tray
* Baffled oil pan
* Cloyes double roller timing chain
* Power Bond Damper
* Camshaft is an Oregon regrind on the oe stock core...
* Head is fully ported
* Ford 289 polished valves
* Beehive valve springs
* Light weight lifters
* Smith Brothers pushrods.
 
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Putting this motor together this week, going into the 68 Barracuda. The goal is a healthy street performance car that I can drive to and run on the strip. I know that multi tasking can be a chore, but I also want to try an autocross or two. I don’t have reservations of being a class winner in either, but I do want to drive the car to the track, race it, and drive it back home.
Photos and motor details:

View attachment 1715524273

View attachment 1715524274

View attachment 1715524275

View attachment 1715524276
There'some seriously nice work there. Looks like it will be fun!
 
Putting this motor together this week, going into the 68 Barracuda. The goal is a healthy street performance car that I can drive to and run on the strip. I know that multi tasking can be a chore, but I also want to try an autocross or two. I don’t have reservations of being a class winner in either, but I do want to drive the car to the track, race it, and drive it back home.
Photos and motor details:

View attachment 1715524273

View attachment 1715524274

View attachment 1715524275

View attachment 1715524276
* The block, head and crank are last year 1987 parts. The case was line bored, pistons, rings matched to the bores.
* KB 239 1 mm oversized 2.2 l pistons
* K1 cast crank long rods
* King bearings
* Ported aluminum oil pump with NOS internals
* I-J twin crank scrapers
* Mopar Performance windage tray
* Baffled oil pan
* Cloyes double roller timing chain
* Power Bond Damper
* Camshaft is an Oregon regrind on the oe stock core...
* Head is fully ported
* Ford 289 polished valves
* Beehive valve springs
* Light weight lifters
* Smith Brothers pushrods.
Looks good, car looks great and the exhaust peeking out looks serious
 
Looks good, car looks great and the exhaust peeking out looks serious
I’ll post a photo of the exhaust, was a drag race only car,,that muffler is there to allow me to do some tuning with out destroying the neighbors,,,
The car also has an A&A built 904 , has the low ratio gear set in it, and a sure grip 3:55 8.75
 
Awesome work! Do you have any pictures of the bottom end with the crank scrapers installed?
 
* Head is fully ported.[/QUOTE said:
The head looks great from the pics provided. Did you do the porting or send it out?
Cheers
Tim
 
When it runs as good as it looks...hang on!
What size are the valves? Is the chamber next to the intake valve cut back?
 
When it runs as good as it looks...hang on!
What size are the valves? Is the chamber next to the intake valve cut back?

I will work on the bottom end tomorrow, the scrapers are being RTV'd in place, I have the pan bolted down to hold them.
The cam is Oregon 1456. The lob masters were described as a Ford circle track grind, needing a .875 or larger lifter.
advertised duration is 329 intake and 338 exhaust
@ .050 254 intake and 258 exhaust
108 lob separation
with 1.5 rockers .560 intake lift and .567 exhaust lift

I have the valve info in the garage I'll get that tomorrow also
 
The valves are Ford 289
SEV 2564-S intake 1.840 head diameter
also available as SEV 2564 intake 1.780 head diameter
SEV 2563 exhaust 1.450
11/32 stem
these valves are .096 longer than a stock slant six valve, the extra .100 gives more room for a taller spring but can require custom length push rods and maybe rocker shaft shims depending upon how much is trimmed from the block - head surface and the cam lob diameter.

These are the port flow series and can be found at SI valves
http://sivalves.com/pdfs/2016-SI-Catalog.pdf

I have a flow bench that I use to verify my porting work.
A business co worker / friend has valve seat - valve guide machines so I can get the heads and valves finished exactly how I want them.
Very little work was done in the intake and exhaust port arms. A lot of work was done in the port bowl and the valve seats.
And yes the combustion chamber in the head was opened to clear the intake valves. I believe that a standard Fel Pro or Mahle 3.500 stock head gasket will still work, if the fire ring on the gasket is not fully supported I will use an Aussie Speed OS head gasket.

DDC450B4-2553-4D36-B112-505155C84563.jpeg
 
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photos of the installed Ishihara-Johnson crank scraper is below.
This is a forged I-J crank scraper that I modified to fit my cast crank. The supplier was interested in being able to supply a slant six cast crank scraper and I provided him a template. It should be available by now. There were a few areas when metal could be added and some that I had to clear, but not a lot...

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the second photo shows one of the roll pins that I added, that made it really easy to position the scraper on the crankcase, check the fit, remove the scraper to resolve an interference issue then put the scraper back in place in the exact same location.

for folks wanting a good and inexpensive one side scraper there is a guy on Slant Six . org making slant six scrapers and windage trays at a very fair price.
here is a link
Windage Trays - Interest - Slant Six Forum
 
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Thank you for the bottom end pics. I have a set of I-J scrapers for a small block I have yet to install. Looking forward to see this go together.
 
Used gear marking compound to zero in the alignment of the oil pump and cam shaft gear mesh.
And photos of the oil pan baffle and the windage tray installation.

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Used gear marking compound to zero in the alignment of the oil pump and cam shaft gear mesh.

I understand the need to fine tune the gear mesh, but how do you make adjustments? Shimming the pump?

After reading the long discussion on oil pump failures at .org, it scared me enough to make an oil squirter pointed at the mesh area. That was almost 4 yrs ago though and I don't remember every detail of the cam, pump, dizzy interface.
 
I understand the need to fine tune the gear mesh, but how do you make adjustments? Shimming the pump?

After reading the long discussion on oil pump failures at .org, it scared me enough to make an oil squirter pointed at the mesh area. That was almost 4 yrs ago though and I don't remember every detail of the cam, pump, dizzy interface.

To me it makes sense to keep the oil pump gear running with the cam shaft that they were born with.
I used the OE 87 cam as the stick that was reground.
I used the OE 87 aluminum oil pump body but swapped in a NOS g rotor assembly, so I removed the oil pump drive gear, then re installed that drive gear on the NOS oil pump shaft.
I left the gear a bit high or out from the oil pump body, then checked the mesh with the gear check paste, then knocked the gear in a bit at a time till the mesh was where I wanted it.
I have removed the oil pump drive gear and re installed the gear on several pumps, I have a good process developed. If interested ask and I will show how I do that.
 
Very cool stuff, John! What's the final static compression going to be? That's a bigass cam for a slant!
 
could you expound on the oil pump gear messing and squirters? I think I understand the pattern part.like a ring and pinion,but the squirter part is new to me.Thanks!Bob
 
Very cool stuff, John! What's the final static compression going to be? That's a bigass cam for a slant!
per the KB calculators
Static Compression Ratio 10.62
Dynamic Compression Ratio 8.37

I plan to start the motor on premium pump gas, all the fuel lines are E85 compatible and I have a Flex Fuel sensor already installed in the fuel lines so it will be running that eventually.
 
could you expound on the oil pump gear messing and squirters? I think I understand the pattern part.like a ring and pinion,but the squirter part is new to me.Thanks!Bob
the article linked has a lot of the background and the detail. However, be sure to note that the article is nearly 20 years old. As mentioned in the article folks ran 50 weight oil back then. That was certain to increase the loading on the small oil pump gear. The subject of oil pump gear failures surface time to time, but confirmed failures are really rare. Some of that is because many top level slant six racers have changed to belt driven external pumps and those that have not know to take care in the installation, verify that the gear alignment is good and some have added the extra oilers as shown in the article. The only oil pump gear failure that I have observed in the past 5 years was caused by a severe mis installation of the oil pump gear. It was pressed so far on the shaft that the mesh with the cam gear helix was out on the tip of the oil pump gear. Still it had ran several seasons that way.

https://www.slantsix.org/articles/oil-pump-gear/failure-fix-report.htm
 
per the KB calculators
Static Compression Ratio 10.62
Dynamic Compression Ratio 8.37

I plan to start the motor on premium pump gas, all the fuel lines are E85 compatible and I have a Flex Fuel sensor already installed in the fuel lines so it will be running that eventually.

Neato. Did you deck the block any?
 
Neato. Did you deck the block any?

The block had the lightest possible clean up cut, and was also line bored. At TDC the flat part of the piston head is absolutely flush with the top of the block, the valve reliefs are fully below the block deck surface.

The head was not cut, the chambers with the new valves are 56 cc.
 
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