Stripping old ceramic coated headers and recoating them with high temp vht 2000°

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Mtrhead

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Stripping old vintage set of Hooker Super Comp 5303's...cheap ceramic coatings will come off pretty easy...but a quality job is almost impossible to remove...it just flakes when not done right....I polish up the old with plastic 3m pad .....then coat in 2000° VHT hi temp header paint....one coat no primer....that's it...takes 1 can per header...wet coat...thanks, Will

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I have some TTI’s like that. Instead of removing the coating, thinking of just doing a header wrap and just plop them in. Your looks very nice though.
 
Do you follow the VHT instruction for curing the paint?
 
Believe it or not I even restore my grills and Rally wheels with this stuff
 
Never have
If you haven’t actually used this paint for high heat applications I strongly suggest you DO follow the curing procedure for VHT high heat and other models of paint which require heat cycle(s) curing in an oven. Otherwise the results may not be favourable.
 
I have some TTI’s like that. Instead of removing the coating, thinking of just doing a header wrap and just plop them in. Your looks very nice though.

Though I doubt you care now, installing header wrap voids all ceramic warranties you may otherwise be entitled to.
 
Header wrap also traps moisture between it and the header causing severe rust out. Ask me how I know!
 
I used the VHT plus the clear VHT and cured with a heat gun. It didn't last, the heating, cooling and wet cycles will flake the paint off regardless.
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I have an older set of super comps , i'm gonna blast them and try the Cerikote on them .
 
Well I sure hope it lasts a lil while....Hell I got $13 tied up in each header...ceramic coatings never held up for me either....the humidity in the South ruins anything...

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aluminium spraying seemingly works ok, unifom grey primer look heat and corrosion resistant.

never say never when it comes to coming off but those who have done it say they wouldn't use anything else

i just need an excuse to take off my headers

believe the process has its roots in sub sea and marine applications.. must work in a sacrificial way like galvanising.

chemically bonded rather than coated i suspect..but i don't know

You just gotta find somone who is willing to do jobs smaller than a big chunk of boat.
i.e an industrial process that is not necessarily aimed at us, but offered, at least in the UK, to people like us, by companies that are willing to deal with an end user rather than a corporation
 
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I have never heat cured header paint, not saying not to. I do believe that the surface prep is very important, and I do not lay on heavy coats, very light thin coats. Then they sit for a long time. I try and do them a month or more out before using them. Haven't had any peeling problems yet on headers or cast iron manifolds. Oh, and yes, silver header paint does work great on silver plastic grills and trim like for instance a steering wheel. I do coat that with a satin clear to protect it. Again, no heavy wet coats. Have fun taping.
 
I'm 2 more primary tubes closer and I will have 2 more primaries to go and 16 primary extensions.....stripping is so lame....arms are sore!

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