Stroker 5.7 anyone????
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412 Stroker
Well-Known Member
looks like you might be the only one.... stroked 5.7 goes to 392 right??
Joe Dokes
Well-Known Member
Check over at the late model forums a lot of guys have poked and stroked a 5.7.
I haven't done it but there are a few of different options.
The first is a K-1 Crank kit that has a 4.080 throw and with a 4.00 inch bore you'd end up with a 410 Cubic Inch Motor.
The second is a Manley Crank kit that has a 4.050 throw and with 4.00 bore you'd end up with a 407 Cubic Inch Motor.
The Third is a Scat Crank with a 3.795 throw and with a 4.00 inch bore you'd end up with a 382 Cubic Inch Motor. Some builders like the 3.795 crank as it doesn't load the cylinder walls as much as the 4 inch stroke cranks.
I've also heard that for MAX effort boosted engines the stock stroke of 3.58 is preferred as combination of boost and side loading causes failures. Allegedly the block can handle a lot more boost and thus create more horse power with the stock stroke. Though obviously a forged crank would be an absolute necessity.
I'd be a little wary of boring a 5.7 out to 4.00" although there is a lot and I mean A LOT of talk on how the 5.7 can be bored .080. Some may handle that amount of overbore, but I'd sonic check any block before boring.
Most of the stroker bottom end kits come with crank, rods, and pistons. Most of the piston kits I've seen for both 5.7 and 6.1 sell pistons for standard bore and, .010 and .020 over. This leads me to believe that .080 pistons would be a custom piston.
Hope this helps,
Regards,
Joe Dokes
I haven't done it but there are a few of different options.
The first is a K-1 Crank kit that has a 4.080 throw and with a 4.00 inch bore you'd end up with a 410 Cubic Inch Motor.
The second is a Manley Crank kit that has a 4.050 throw and with 4.00 bore you'd end up with a 407 Cubic Inch Motor.
The Third is a Scat Crank with a 3.795 throw and with a 4.00 inch bore you'd end up with a 382 Cubic Inch Motor. Some builders like the 3.795 crank as it doesn't load the cylinder walls as much as the 4 inch stroke cranks.
I've also heard that for MAX effort boosted engines the stock stroke of 3.58 is preferred as combination of boost and side loading causes failures. Allegedly the block can handle a lot more boost and thus create more horse power with the stock stroke. Though obviously a forged crank would be an absolute necessity.
I'd be a little wary of boring a 5.7 out to 4.00" although there is a lot and I mean A LOT of talk on how the 5.7 can be bored .080. Some may handle that amount of overbore, but I'd sonic check any block before boring.
Most of the stroker bottom end kits come with crank, rods, and pistons. Most of the piston kits I've seen for both 5.7 and 6.1 sell pistons for standard bore and, .010 and .020 over. This leads me to believe that .080 pistons would be a custom piston.
Hope this helps,
Regards,
Joe Dokes
The lx guys check wall thickness before considering over boring that much. Not all 5.7 blocks can take that (most can't). I read 1 out of 100 can take a 4.055 bore (6.1), but I dont have a figure for 4.0" bore (Still a .083 overbore!).
The word is 1000 hp max stroked with billet caps. 1800 hp max stock stroke with billet caps.
I stayed stock stroke (6.1 crank) for road racing with my forged 5.7. Anything else, I say stroke it and keep it under ~6500 rpm.
The word is 1000 hp max stroked with billet caps. 1800 hp max stock stroke with billet caps.
I stayed stock stroke (6.1 crank) for road racing with my forged 5.7. Anything else, I say stroke it and keep it under ~6500 rpm.
412 Stroker
Well-Known Member
Yes we will can't wait to see your car in person, we have really had a mild winter so far lets hope we get an early spring/summer, theres a bunch of shows coming up I want to go to.
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