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post states power port 190
I think he said 190's
not aware there is more than one choice. They are all 190 cc head. Just a matter of what spring you want on them. Big block has two choices, just the one for smallblock
As stated, nothing that ensuring you have adequate fuel delivery, a properly sized and tuned carburetor, and timing adjustment wouldn't help out. A custom converter certainly wouldn't hurt anything, either. You could potentially see more mph hour if your present converter loses efficiency and is "blowing through" in the fat part of the torque band. I don't expect it to be as far off as the carburetor (if any at all), but I'm only chipping in because I didn't see mention of what spark plugs and gap you are running.
It doesn’t take a really big carb to run better than he is now. I ran 9.80’s with a 750 Holley on my W2 headed 408 shifted at 6400-6600 rpm.
that is true. I only gained a hair better than a tenth going from a 750 to that 1025 race demon. But everything adds up. His convertor i know is killing that combo though.
I'm also not sure why you're not in the 118-120 mph range.. I would think it would like four or five more degrees of initial timing... I've got to say the carb isn't in big enough as well...
asking about the springs....as the lower price version spring presure at 120 seat pressure.....
i could be wrong but i doubt with that Howards solid it would be happy at 6500 like he says it is with a 120 spring
it should run better than that even, really. My 9.5 to 1 360 with mild eddies runs that Mph in good air(3300 pounds) shifting at 6k
I shimmed mine to a installed height of 1.80 to get them to 140ish....PRH said they were Pac 1903 springs....same spring i use on the eddy and Sm heads with flat tappet cams.....just wanted to point that out
The pistons are -13cc dish Icon 9978. The fuel system.. yes that is an area that is a concern. The lines are 5/16 and so is the pickup. The fuel pump is the Carter muscle car fuel pump which on manicni shows 120gph but I looked at it on Summit it shows 25gph stock. I ordered the Carter Strip 120gph pump and 3/8 line and a 3/8 pickup. Also ordered summit inline fuel pressure regulator.
You are right that those are the version of the heads I have with the 120 seat pressure. I spoke with Trickflow and they said it should be fine. Howards tech said fine once and then one tech suggested shimming. I decided not to shim.
Wow amazing how much you picked up with so few changes..
it is the version with the weakest springs. Trickflow said I would be okay. One call to Howards a tech said shoudl be okay. Another I was told he would feel a bit better if I shimmed. I did not shim.
The spark plugs are the ones.. recommended by Trickflow NG same number they recommended. Gap is at .035.
That build is damn close spec wise to mine. Except my Howard's cam is a solid roller, but really close spec wise. And I'm running a 904 with manual valve body. 4500 converter from dynamic. So far, this combo has given 11.3s @119.55 at 7,000+DA. I would venture to say a proper converter would wake that sucker up quite a bit. Edit.. It probably wouldn't hurt to get more seat time and do some tuning before any hard parts get changed. Find out where it's really happy to shift. Start low and work up. Mess with suspension, simple tweaks can add up.
Is there a track close to Reno, or do you have to tow out to Fallon?
I don't know about changing the fuel line or the pump if you don't see a lean spike? I would like to see more passes with a little carb tuning before any more money spending..
I thought so...
yep fallon, I live in fernley so it's not too bad a drive.
Boy, that town has grown in the last few years !! Where do you go for engine work?
Yeah probably kinda jumped the gun buying those things. I figured that should eliminate it as a weak area but yeah.. unlesss seeing that with WOT testing. I may not be in a rush to install it.
Opinions....here are mine.... Carb: I'm not concerned about the size. I'm currently running low 10's with a home built "750" carb that started life as a 650dp (using a Proform main body). I do think the jetting needs looked at. Fuel system: Definitely upgrade it to at least 3/8 line & better pump. Converter: If you want a fast drag car you NEED to spend money on a GOOD converter. I personally run a PTC 8". Works fine on the street and strip. Last, but not least...and probably not what you want to hear....I would pull that cast Eagle crank while it is still in 1 piece and put in a forged crank (the Scat cast crank seems to be fine if you want to be cheap....but I don't think this is a good place to be cheap...just my opinion). I have seen too many horror stories of cast Eagle cranks braking under modest power. Eagle Forged cranks were fine, I actually ran one for quite a few years. Your car should be about a second faster, just looking at what you have. Best of luck tuning, hopefully it will come around.