Subframe connectors

-
Steve Agrella

Steve Agrella

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 4, 2018
Messages
461
Reaction score
120
Location
Mission Hills Ca
Does this need to be done for the occasional street race, I don’t plan on drag racing my car or auto crossing with it.
I get why it’s done however don’t know if they apply to my 74 Duster or not, my car is pushing 400 HP.
The car has already been soundproofed will that have to be removed in order to have subframe connectors installed.
 
LOL! No! it’s not!, but I’d say it would help on many many fronts by doing so. I highly suggest it. It will be worth the work.
 
I had about 350hp with my 360 in my 74 duster and it was showing signs of twisting, doors especially.
 
They will help the handling of the car. You can put them in under the floor using the Box tubing you will not have to weld into the floor so therefore you don't have to worry about pulling up your insulation or carpeting.
400 horsepower is enough to start flexing the body if you hook up good.
I think you will like them once you have them in place.
 
Buddy has a 69/360 4 speed.
It could use them. It feels flexy when he puts the boot to it. 1 owner car,he doesent want to pull interior to do them.
Hes thinking of a redo in a few years, will likely put them in then.
Will have to let him drive mine once i finish welding them up and finish the car.
 
We welded in Hotchkis frame connectors. they sit up nice and high, and were easy to weld on.

ipm83s.jpg


2a6t653.jpg


2nknwyb.jpg
 
In the summer of 92 the purple beater got a 375 horse power 360 transplant and a set of sticky tires... about a week and 30 street races later the car was starting to twist bad enough that the drivers door would barely close and the windshield started leaking. That winter it went to a chassis shop in Winnipeg for a roll bar, sub frame connectors,tubbing and a set of super stock springs.
25 years later the car is still a piece of junk...but it feels as solid as new car when you close the doors...without the investment in stiffening the car it would be in the dump by now (and some would still say it should be)

C05B6C7D-B765-4995-AB50-92D80774B981.png
 
It’s not the HP but the torque and I think a few of you guys had more than you think you did.
 
67autocross said:
In the summer of 92 the purple beater got a 375 horse power 360 transplant and a set of sticky tires... about a week and 30 street races later the car was starting to twist bad enough that the drivers door would barely close and the windshield started leaking. That winter it went to a chassis shop in Winnipeg for a roll bar, sub frame connectors,tubbing and a set of super stock springs.
25 years later the car is still a piece of junk...but it feels as solid as new car when you close the doors...without the investment in stiffening the car it would be in the dump by now (and some would still say it should be)

View attachment 1715273098
Click to expand...
Love the car!
 
I built mine out of 1.5"x3" square tubing using @TrailBeast s design (thanks again). Cheap, easy, effective, no cutting floor, stock brake and fuel lines stay put.

Trailbeasts drawing
subframe.jpg
 
I just got a 64 Valiant, 170, 3 on the tree. It's GONNA get US CarTool frame connectors, even if it stays stone stock.
 
Steve Agrella said:
Does this need to be done for the occasional street race, I don’t plan on drag racing my car or auto crossing with it.
...
Click to expand...

How far does 400hp get you in street racing these days? Are you racing for pinks against minivans or what? :D

For whatever its worth, the local (very well liked), restoration shop that bent up the exhaust for my car said that subframe connectors are pretty much mandatory for stick shift cars while automatics are typically ok for mild performance applications up to a point. He was pretty insistent about it and discouraged me from bothering with my 300hp/400lbft crate motor. This guy has a gorgeous '69 Charger R/T, a '68 Barracuda 383, another with a 340. His son drag races a '69 Superbee and drives the wheels off of his '72 Roadrunner. These are Mopar guys...so in most cases, I tend to take their opinions seriously. If your car is relatively fresh/low miles...maybe he's right. After all, these cars weren't slouches from the factory and most guys didn't bother with this stuff back in the day as far as I know. Then again, tires were way less sticky back then. :D

Personally, this is one of the few areas where I think they're underestimating the importance of bracing. I believe that any smartly-placed chassis reinforcement is worth its weight in gold-pressed latinum. Chassis flex is bad for handling, bad for the driving experience, bad for the car. 400hp is a lot for a ~50 year old econo car chassis.
 
Steve Agrella said:
Does this need to be done for the occasional street race, I don’t plan on drag racing my car or auto crossing with it.
I get why it’s done however don’t know if they apply to my 74 Duster or not, my car is pushing 400 HP.
The car has already been soundproofed will that have to be removed in order to have subframe connectors installed.
Click to expand...


are frame connectors required? no.. but they are a huge upgrade. they will really stiffen the car up.. they can only help. can't hurt... well unless you burn the car to the ground welding them in...lol
 
The photos above are Hotchkis part number 4014. The way it mounts it spans the distance between the front cross member and the rear frame. It doesn’t attach to the floor pan and you may not have to remove your sound deadner.

Hotchkis Sport Suspension Weld-On Subframe Connectors 4014

This subframe connector may not be as stiff as the US Car tool version or as stiff as the the DIY version of
2” X 3” tube that welds to the floor but you will get the majority of the Benift of the connector. If your worried about stiffness one member tied the connectors together and incorporated a drive shaft hoop in the process....pretty slick install. See pictures below and the OPs comments.

21FAAEEE-165D-4B68-BBDD-085768104724.jpeg
0B2696F4-B23A-4F15-B9E9-B795020D80E3.jpeg
15C5C08F-AF6F-4CFF-8AE3-D6F7426CAB05.png
3D1BF021-DA86-4E49-847E-D8103ED7B15A.png
 
Last edited:
383Scampman said:
You can do it for less than $50.00
Click to expand...

Oh yeah? Steel scrap is going for about $.80/lb these days.
Assuming there's about 3000lbs of steel in a Hellcat Challenger, you could practically build one $2400. Just add in some extra for the glass, aluminum and plastic. ;)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top