Subsitute for buying 1973+ LCR with sway bar tabs..

-
If you have to modify and weld it anyway, it's easy enough to make your own out of short chunks of rectangular tube or channel stock with nothing more than a drill press and a chop saw (a band saw is a little more elegant, but not everyone has one).
 
I reckon they would tell you that. Geez. Get a short section of 2" X 2" angle iron and make you some. Way less than 40 bucks. ....but if you just wanna spend money on sumthin....
 
Sigh.

Not all of us are skilled metal workers or mechanics like you folks are...that is why many of us actually buy the LCAs with the sway bar tabs on them.

Some members do not want to do a quick angle iron quick fix and are concerned with what it looks like especially if they are showing their car.



Grassy
 
You don't have to be a skilled metal worker to hack up a couple pieces of angle with a sawzall. You shoul weld them on anyway, so... that's why they sell stuff like that - a few minutes to knock 'em out, couple bucks worth of steel, nickle or dime's worth of paint, nearly all pure profit.

Free advertising in this case, as well!
 
340-4 speed,

That is tough for me. I neither have any angle iron, a sawzall or a welder. I suspect I am not alone here. In my case, I would have to buy the iron and take the pieces and have them welded on. And what thickness should I use ? Will this hold under heavy loads ?

I have yet to see a diagram of a LCA with the tabs that I could take to a welder and say do this here ..and honestly, when you install the sway bar, how much latitude do you have when installing them ? Do you have something we could use ? Would the welder not do this for safety concerns ?

Ian.
 
FWIW, the 73+ Addco sway bar I purchased came with the two pieces of angle iron for the LCA. The bar also included hardware to attach them to the LCA, all you had to do was drill a hole in the LCA to mount the tab. I welded mine but the bolt would work.
 
Absolutely awesome. That is what this thread is for.

I appreciate your important..heck of a lot easier that doing all that worrying.

Addco itis..and where isthe best price ??

Thanks
Ian.
 
the67fish said:
Sorry, dont mean to be crapping on your thread, maybe I should have posted this pic, its of a members car and its just an option on how to do it. Lots of people jump thru hoops when they see this and dont have to change the lower arms or weld on the original tabs. It actually looks pretty good and sure would fool me into thinking its original.
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/attachment.php?attachmentid=26699&stc=1&d=1206737486
Click to expand...

Thanks for the pic..I like pics :) It really lets you illustrate what you are talking about.

Thanks
ian.
 
Yeah, shock bolt's one way to do it, kinda cobbed up IMHO, but works just the same I suppose.

I don't know how much a shop would charge for the welding, but I suspect it will be as much or more than the cost of the hotchkis pieces themselves. Strength who knows? I bet 3/16" would be stronger than the factory pieces. It's not a real critical part unless maybe it let go SCCA racing in the middle of a high-speed turn. Dunno.

Here's what I did:

http://stuff.is-a-geek.net/PhotoAlbum/Cars/Pics/duster_38.jpg
 
340-4spd said:
Yeah, shock bolt's one way to do it, kinda cobbed up IMHO, but works just the same I suppose.

I don't know how much a shop would charge for the welding, but I suspect it will be as much or more than the cost of the hotchkis pieces themselves. Strength who knows? I bet 3/16" would be stronger than the factory pieces. It's not a real critical part unless maybe it let go SCCA racing in the middle of a high-speed turn. Dunno.

Here's what I did:

http://stuff.is-a-geek.net/PhotoAlbum/Cars/Pics/duster_38.jpg
Click to expand...


There is a guy that runs a welding company out of his house a couple of miles from my house. It would probably wise to have him look at the fit while the LCA is on the car. This gives me a couple of options now.

Actually, I have been driving by his house for years..it would be time for me to go visit and take a look at his setup and some of his work.

I guess I am extra stressed because my kids drive this car.

Ian.
 
Just a quick tip for doing the mock-up: Get a jack under the K-member and note the LCA/tab angle through the full range of suspension movement so as to get the tab oriented correctly somewhere in the middle of that range.
 
340-4spd said:
Just a quick tip for doing the mock-up: Get a jack under the K-member and note the LCA/tab angle through the full range of suspension movement so as to get the tab oriented correctly somewhere in the middle of that range.
Click to expand...

I had wondered that..thanks for the tip.

ian.
 
grassy said:
Sigh.

Not all of us are skilled metal workers or mechanics like you folks are...that is why many of us actually buy the LCAs with the sway bar tabs on them.

Some members do not want to do a quick angle iron quick fix and are concerned with what it looks like especially if they are showing their car.

I was asked to post this option so please don't crap on it...

Grassy
Click to expand...

Wasn't crappin on anything. i was givin you an option that maybe you hadn't thought about. I'll put you on my "don't try to help again" list. Sorry.
 
StrokerScamp said:
Wasn't crappin on anything. i was givin you an option that maybe you hadn't thought about. I'll put you on my "don't try to help again" list. Sorry.
Click to expand...

I took it differently when I was asked to post this...my mindset was in a different place...however, the end result was perfect.

Sorry to hurt you feelings.

Grassy
 
FWIW, you can't use the shock bolt on a 73+ swaybar. They mount to the control arm in board of the strut rod.

Here is a pictur of a 73+ Addco bar installed withe the provided bracket.

Swaybar1.jpg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top