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LOL i try to convince myself everyday Bill
I think it will really work if he follows what I am saying.... but I have been wrong more than once. If I had one I would give it a try since it is just a few screws to try it.
It does when you go on a personal attack. You talked about ME. All I did was give my opinion about exhaust cutouts. They are a stupid waste of money and that's my opinion. I am a member here too. If you want a forum where only your opinions count, start your own. Exhaust cutouts must suck because you're having trouble with them. lol They'll always be a point of contention because they have to deal with such heat and harsh environment. No way can they keep working without trouble over time. They are just one more stupid thing to go wrong that could be eliminated by not using them. That's my opinion of exhaust cutouts. Not you. I didn't have to get personal.
Ok check out these pictures and you'll see what I'm talking about Notice where the bolt holes are in reference to the motor. Rotate the driver's side and it will never match the passenger side. It actually has to be flipped backward to mimic the passenger side
I have same setup. I cut the flange off the y-pipe and clocked it correctly.
Hey man, don't be hating on air fresheners now! You ever ride in a taxi cab?
Had I caught it before hand I would have done the same and drove on. But it was the combination of having it all done and realizing what had happened and Summit telling me not their problem just kind sent me over the edge
Are they supposed to hang way down like that? It looks like it is about 2" lower than the exhaust pipe. If so I wouldn't want to deal with them. All the problems with low hanging headers come to mind. The design sucks and that is why it pays mock up everything before welding.
There is no doubt after seeing Summit's abomination for cut outs that Doug's set up looks a lot better.
How far apart will those cutouts disassemble? Looks like you could take it apart, remove the motor, shaft and flapper valve and just flip the flange 180* and put it all back together and it would be in the right place then.
OK I'm old and dumb sometimes but what would make the difference on how they are installed don't they just open and close I'll have to check mine for operation
I got the 3 in from summit and love them. All I got was the header flange and the cut outs. I mounted mine where the headers turn in toward the driveshaft so when open its straight out the headers. They do make a difference like this. If they stick on the side of the tailpipe they don't do much. Mine are both alike I mounted them with the motor on the right hand side. As for Summits customer service Ive always had good luck.
That is what I said earlier in the thread but he just isn't following that train of thought.
He'd rather go on the attack than listen I guess. And here I am still tryin to help after bein insulted. What was I thinkin?
If you checked the stuff before welding on one side they would have taken it back for a 100% return and no shipping charge. It's easy enough to take everything out of the package and check it for fit, and or damage before installation. I have returned many things to Summit. IMO they are hands down better than Jegs as far as customer service. I ordered a couple AN fittings last week. They were supposed to be nickle plated brass. When they arrived they were aluminum. Called Summit, they checked their stock and confirmed that their website description was incorrect. I used the return mailing label that is attached to the receipt, and sent it right back.
I don't think the design sucks at all. The placement of the cut outs in the exhaust system is the problem. Which is what happens when you weld up the system before you actually mock everything up to see how it will fit. You can even see that the cut out pipes are angled down, which lowers the electric cut outs. The Doug's are definitely nicer, but they also cost quite a bit more than Summit's kit, over a $100 more in fact. For $100 I think it's easy enough to cut the exhaust flange off the cut out extension, rotate it and weld it back on. Even with high end components you have to mock everything up before you start making things permanent. That's the way it goes with aftermarket parts, even the Doug's kit looks like it could cause issues if you didn't leave room for it in the right places. Summit's kit looks like it might take a little more planning than the Doug's kit to install, but there's already two people in this thread that made it work just fine.
They do hang down further than what I'd like them to. When I get the ride height set, I'll see how close it is to the ground and go from there. This is how I had to do it to get the motor to clear the frame connector. The only way around this is to cut the cutout tubes back off, cut the flanges on both sides, rotate the flanges so that the motor points down more of an angle and rotate the cutout tubes up out of the way more. This is the first time I've ever built a car. I don't have any help locally so I'm on my own to try and learn every single thing I do on this build on my own. I've had great help from so many here along the way. Is everything I do perfect the first time every time? Hell no. I've tripped and fell on my face so many times along the way that I'm not even sure my face is recognizable anymore! I'm only striving to gain the knowledge of so many here so I can at least act like I know what I'm doing and try to build the car that I've wanted for 15 years. So yeah I may not do things the right way the first time every time. Did anyone here accomplish that on their first ride? Doubtful. Believe me, Captain Hindsight is with me 24/7 so I always know what I'm supposed to do next time. :cheers: Yes you both need to explain this more clearly. 180 degrees turned what direction? The way you're explaining it sounds to me just the same as flipping the whole thing over and running it backward from the way it was intended (which is now the I put it on last night). I'm not ignoring what you're saying. It's just not clear to me. I'm always open for suggestions and am not a closed minded person. Maybe it's this Kansas air keeping my brain fogged over and I need to move back home to Oklahoma! HA! And here we go again. Keep trying to stir sh!t up. Had you mentioned flipping the flange and all that the first go round trying to help out rather than saying "I don't like cutouts", wouldn't that have been a whole lot more helpful? I always appreciate the help, but the smarta$$ comments aren't appreciated. Maybe I should just expect that because that's just they way some people are. If you think that I insulted you, I'm sorry that you have thin skin. My apologies if I insulted you. Again, hindsight. I checked one side and not the other. Yes my fault. Trip, fall, brush it off, learn. In the past they've had great customer service. I actually sent back 2 or 3 of these cutouts and they had no problem with that. This time was a bit of a bummer though in that department. Just sayin.
Break it down in to three parts. Lay it on the table. Turn the flange over (not side to side) and reassemble it. That will flip the flange 180 degrees and when it is bolted back up to your exhaust the motor will be on the left.
I don't have thin skin. You're just bein an buttface.
Ok so if I take what you're saying how I'm understanding it, flip the flange end for end (not in a left to right manner but up and down), that's exactly the same as flipping it backward and running it as I have now (not pictured). The flap would have to rotate with the flange due the the machined lips specifically made for the different sides of the flapper so that it seals. Does that make sense? I flipped it last night so the motor is pointing out the left side now but is indeed installed backward. I have a feeling I'll be redoing that whole section of the exhaust on both sides at some point. I thought that the flanges were somewhat close to even with the bottom of the headers, but the cutouts are at the center of the car which technically would be more of an issue like when loading onto a trailer or something. It's hard to tell when it's up on jack stands at both ends. I'll play things by ear for now (no pun intended). Today is engine start and break-in day so that's priority 1 at the moment.
Removing the flapper and taking the motor off and installing it to where the flapper/shaft would be on the opposite side of where it is now would be a mirror image of the other side, ie: the rough part of the flapper and the shaft in the correct location.
Ah! I do see what you're saying now. I'll look into doing that. I hate tearing it apart but you gotta do what you gotta do sometimes. Hopefully it's simple. Seems that it should be anyhow. Thank you sir for the clarification!
If you want sit there and be a grump, be my guest. Keep spreading your cheer on the forum for all to see who you are. You're only making yourself look bad my friend. I'm done with this stupid little spat with you. Time to move on.
you can dissasemble the flappers unless you grind off the nuts and bolts that hold the flapper onto the shaft. the factory galls the ends so the nuts wont fall off. its a simple matter of cutting off the y-pipe flange. clocking it correctly and re welding. took me 15 min. mine are tucked up tight to the floor and have more clearance than the rest of the exhaust. I USED THE SAME KIT AND MINE WORK FLAWLESSLY FOR FOR 1800 MILES.
Good to know. Out of curiosity, do you have sub frame connectors? The passenger side will get in the way of the motor no matter what. Was wondering if yours was the same way.