T-Bar Recommendation - .920's?????

[YoungBlood]

Whattya guys think? Should I be running a .920 set in a small block car with sub-frame connectors, KYB's, and XHD's?

Those were recommended, but since I will be running gas-a-just shocks and sub-frame connectors, I figure my squishy .850's are sufficient?

A mainly street driven car with 2.76's would be nice with that sturdy of a bar set, but if I ever went to the track (EXTREMELY HYPOTHETICAL) that extra little flex might be nice.

 

[mvh]

Whattya guys think? Should I be running a .920 set in a small block car with sub-frame connectors, KYB's, and XHD's?

Those were recommended, but since I will be running gas-a-just shocks and sub-frame connectors, I figure my squishy .850's are sufficient?

A mainly street driven car with 2.76's would be nice with that sturdy of a bar set, but if I ever went to the track (EXTREMELY HYPOTHETICAL) that extra little flex might be nice.

A fabricator just recommended that I run .920s in my 273 Barracuda, but since I had just bought a set of .890s I was ignoring it. This guy's idea was that Mopar's original spring rates were way too soft, and that .920s ride fine. However, I've seen one of his cars, and he is probably operating on a more radical wavelength than I am. My car has the Formula S suspension (Heavy Duty option), and I have always thought it had a good combo of ride and handling (I have front and rear Addco bars and KYBs). The one thing I thought it could use is more anti-dive, so I went for a one-step up t-bar. Haven't installed them yet.

Personally, my preference is lots of anti-roll, but moderate spring rates, as being more practical on real-world roads. But some folks crave the cornering-on-ralls effect on perfectly smooth roads, even if it rattles their teeth and throws them offline on bumpy roads.

BTW, when I'm talking about real-world roads, I'm not talking about freeway commuting. I drove the California Melee in my Barracuda last year (900 miles of backroads: http://www.californiamelee.com).