Talked myself into rebuilding my engine

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1973dusterkid

1973dusterkid

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OK so my rings are done so I am pulling the engine to to the rings thought about doing some other stuff.

Set up as of now

71 360 block
stock bore and stroke
flat top pistions 9.1.0 comp ratio
340 J heads 2.02 1.6 valves
cast iron 4bbr 340 intake
750 holley
long tubes 3in headers
howaed cam http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hrs-711451-08?seid=srese1&gclid=CJDJ8J3khb0CFZTm7AodZ2cAww




My plan

Hone and put new rings in it
New rod bearings
New crankshaft bearings
alum Intake

What kind of power do you think I can get out of this combo I was think this setup is simalar to the 380hp crate engine.
 
1973dusterkid said:
OK so my rings are done so I am pulling the engine to to the rings thought about doing some other stuff.

Set up as of now

71 360 block
stock bore and stroke
flat top pistions 9.1.0 comp ratio
340 J heads 2.02 1.6 valves
cast iron 4bbr 340 intake
750 holley
long tubes 3in headers
howaed cam http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hrs-711451-08?seid=srese1&gclid=CJDJ8J3khb0CFZTm7AodZ2cAww




My plan

Hone and put new rings in it
New rod bearings
New crankshaft bearings
alum Intake

What kind of power do you think I can get out of this combo I was think this setup is simalar to the 380hp crate engine.
Click to expand...

How does that Cam compare to the 380 HP Crate Motor?
 
Just don't take your engine back to Hortman, he royally screwed my intake manifold when he machined it, never cleans his hot tank, and destroyed my buddy's crank and said it was like that when he got it. Take it to No MSG or someone decent. But not Hortman.
 
The 380hp crate motor has a pretty radical camshaft, although the lift of your cam is similar the difference is the duration, yours is quite a bit less. And like already stated I'm pretty sure it's a roller cam. With that being said you will still have a pretty good runner, low 300s would probably be a safe estimate.
 
Rpm Perf, x2. Some head work/simple bowl porting,would creep upwards quickly. Just a thought.
 
More radical,no. With a 4 speed,and 3:55's.: Crower 31916,Comp 268XE,or something similar. If not willing to do some pocket porting,a quicker action cam would help some.
 
1973dusterkid said:
If I do some porting can I get 400 out of it
Click to expand...

A possibility.. The 2.02 valve in a stock valve bowl,sells nice. The trick is to enlarge the area above the valve. This is huge. The transfer between the seat,to the factory machining usually has definitely on 2.02 installs.The bowlwork porting,fits awesome with your .506 cam. CAUTION: you nick any on the seats,time for a new valve job. Depends on your patience.
 
Abodybomber said:
A possibility.. The 2.02 valve in a stock valve bowl,sells nice. The trick is to enlarge the area above the valve. This is huge. The transfer between the seat,to the factory machining usually has definitely on 2.02 installs.The bowlwork porting,fits awesome with your .506 cam. CAUTION: you nick any on the seats,time for a new valve job. Depends on your patience.
Click to expand...

So 400 with my cam and some porting I think i might take .02 off the block and the Cr should be around 9.5
 
It could. With a 4 speed and 3:55's ,torque is king. Why the Air Gap & and bowl porting was recommended.
 
:f you feel uncomfortable with porting at all,the Air Gap is an huge improvement. Let's start with an Air Gap...... (no porting).
 
1973dusterkid said:
So 400 with my cam and some porting I think i might take .02 off the block and the Cr should be around 9.5
Click to expand...

I would recommend getting pistons with the proper compression ratio vs milling the block and/or heads. If you mill the block and/or heads, then you may need to mill the intake so the ports will line up properly. :sad1:

Get the proper pistons if you haven't already bought them to save the headache of milling the block/heads and intake. :banghead:


That's a nice street cam that you've picked out, and these guys are steering you in the right direction.
 
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