TCP Global

-
Tadams

Tadams

Tadams
Joined
Jun 13, 2008
Messages
3,633
Reaction score
952
Location
nc
Have any of you tried the paint they supply. It is not a bad price and with the auto paint library they claim to match your original color. I have some, but haven't used it.
One auto restoration shop locally uses it and likes the paint.
Another one said he wouldn't use it, hard to work with and doesn't hold up well.
Any thoughts?
 
this is what I used on my car. The guys who painted it said that the paint went on really well but the clear was touchy. After 4 years the paint seems to be holding up really well. I will be using them again.
 
TCP global is alright but I typically go on www.autobodytoolmart.com and use their Kirker products.
I've had really good results with them. Kirker typically sells their paints in 3/4 gallons then you buy a quart of activator/hardener (single stage) or reducer (two stage then clearcoat)
I haven't tried their clearcoats just yet. I have two gallons that I'm going to utilize soon.
 
Do you use single stage or bc/cc. I had purchased single stage for my Barracuda, but not sure I will continue in the direction I had planned. My car is gold on gold and I had decided to change to ivory on gold with gold stripes. Now I am undecided.
I choose single stage for the simplicity with out having to color sand. Was this a mistake? The picture is in epoxy primer.
Ideas are welcome

WP_20160308_15_41_49_Pro.jpg
 
Tantibus-74 said:
TCP global is alright but I typically go on www.autobodytoolmart.com and use their Kirker products.
I've had really good results with them. Kirker typically sells their paints in 3/4 gallons then you buy a quart of activator/hardener (single stage) or reducer (two stage then clearcoat)
I haven't tried their clearcoats just yet. I have two gallons that I'm going to utilize soon.
Click to expand...

I have used ABTM for quite a bit. I have used some Kirker products the single stage Urethane is pretty good. The EC100 clear I didn't like.
 
I also used them for single stage, and if you thin it 25% before you spray it then it does go on real nice.
It's only been a couple of months but it does come out pretty good.
The wet look hardener looks like it works well.

SANY0015.JPG


SANY0014.JPG


fenderext.jpg


DartEmblem.JPG
 
Hmm... Good to know, I have 2 gallons of EC200. I wonder how this stuff is.
To the OP, the one thing I really liked about TCPglobal is they have an OEM color library.
 
Tadams said:
Do you use single stage or bc/cc. I had purchased single stage for my Barracuda, but not sure I will continue in the direction I had planned. My car is gold on gold and I had decided to change to ivory on gold with gold stripes. Now I am undecided.
I choose single stage for the simplicity with out having to color sand. Was this a mistake? The picture is in epoxy primer.
Ideas are welcome
Click to expand...

A single stage solid color isn't too bad. It's easy to lay on and simple which can be a good thing. A clearcoat will add a little more gloss and depth (especially important with metallic and pearls). A good clearcoat will add UV resistance as well not a big deal with white. Reds, oranges and some yellows are among the fastest fading colors, and therefore would benefit from the UV resistance.

*There are some singe stage paints that do have some UV resistance, however as I've found out after awhile when I painted someone's trailer with Kirker's single stage yellow, it still faded slightly after about 3 years. the one part I did clearcoat (using Omni Au) was slightly darker.
 
Last edited:
Tantibus-74 said:
Hmm... Good to know, I have 2 gallons of EC200. I wonder how this stuff is.
To the OP, the one thing I really liked about TCPglobal is they have an OEM color library.
Click to expand...
The Ec100 Just didn't lay down nice. I tried seven ways from Sunday including adding a bit of reducer. It did wet sand and buff well and really easily. I have a gallon of the 200 here as well have not used it yet.
 
GeorgeH said:
Is that enamel or urethane? You said wet look hardener so assuming it's enamel.
Click to expand...

Yep, Acrylic Enamel with the medium speed hardener for about 70-80 degrees temps and AE reducer.

OH, and I forgot to mention you can order it through Walmart also, and the shipping is quite a bit less through them but the paint is the same price.
 
TrailBeast said:
Yep, Acrylic Enamel with the medium speed hardener for about 70-80 degrees temps and AE reducer.

OH, and I forgot to mention you can order it through Walmart also, and the shipping is quite a bit less through them but the paint is the same price.
Click to expand...
looks good for enamel.
 
Their Spinnaker White is a match for the 68 W code and looks fine on my Dart.
i33558-jpg.1714914923
 
Is the color library close to the original color. I went to a local store and purchased the interior paint and had to pick out a color that was close. It really does look good, but I really didn't want to use a metallic paint. The ivory I have from TCP looks good from the small sample on the can. I haven't opened, or sprayed any, but hope the color is close to the sample. I wish I had ordered the gold which was the original color, but thought the ivory would look better on the car
 
My car will probably be garage kept most of the time which I know will help the paint last longer
 
I looked at the summit. I thought the auto library would be to my benefit.
 
Eh, guess I throw in my 2cents. I am no painter either but wanted to try my hand using their restoration shop line. I just wanted to get a close resemblance to the original color, like a light blue grey.
I looked at their on line color charts and chose a color that looked the closest. Bought a qt. system just to check/ compare, when the can arrived, I could tell right off by the paint dab on the lid it was`nt even close. e-mailed them with pic and guy agreed that it was`nt even close to their online chart and sent another qt. free, mighty nice of them to do that but it came in being the exact same color.:( So I bought their color chart in case on line computer colors vary.
I chose another color that matched real close and close enough for me, ordered, and it came in looking like a light baby blue, nothing close to their chart. I give up.
The paint seems of good quality, I used the dark blue to paint the underbody where it will be unseen,
and shot the firewall with the light blue. I hate to see good$ go to waste, and am not building a show car, but I still want to get real close to factory color. what to do? Still in the market for a equally price range paint that actually comes close to the color I need.
 
mopar head said:
Eh, guess I throw in my 2cents. I am no painter either but wanted to try my hand using their restoration shop line. I just wanted to get a close resemblance to the original color, like a light blue grey.
I looked at their on line color charts and chose a color that looked the closest. Bought a qt. system just to check/ compare, when the can arrived, I could tell right off by the paint dab on the lid it was`nt even close. e-mailed them with pic and guy agreed that it was`nt even close to their online chart and sent another qt. free, mighty nice of them to do that but it came in being the exact same color.:( So I bought their color chart in case on line computer colors vary.
I chose another color that matched real close and close enough for me, ordered, and it came in looking like a light baby blue, nothing close to their chart. I give up.
The paint seems of good quality, I used the dark blue to paint the underbody where it will be unseen,
and shot the firewall with the light blue. I hate to see good$ go to waste, and am not building a show car, but I still want to get real close to factory color. what to do? Still in the market for a equally price range paint that actually comes close to the color I need.
Click to expand...


Color charts can be a real crapshoot with the lower line paints. And most paints I've used dry a touch darker then what they appear in the can.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top