The 360 build that has more turns than Willow Springs

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Kern Dog

Build your car to handle.
FABO Gold Member
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Many of you have dealt with this sort of thing....
You have a car that needs an engine rebuild or swap so you start thinking of what to do. The options may be all over the place and hard to choose.
For me, I have these two cars to work with:

67 Dratt X.JPG


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The black car looks terrible but is as fun as you can have with your pants still on. It currently has a 70s era 360 standard bore but in 2003 or thereabouts it got honed and new rings installed. In 2006 I got it from a friend and put in a MP 280/474 cam and '308 heads. This dude flat out scrams for such a mild build. 360 manifolds, 2 1/4" pipes, a Weiand intake and Holley 750 and boom, it just runs great.
BUT I wanted to step it up a bit. Last year, a buddy pulled this engine from his Valiant:

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This is a 1990 360 from a truck. He rebuilt it back in 2012-2013. It has the desirable Air Gap intake, the '308 heads, a roller cam too!

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He pulled it when he blew a head gasket. Yesterday I tore it down to find the pistons were just .020 over. Smart move, only bore the minimum to allow for future options to bore again later if necessary. Look at those intake ports. The water that went through it also sat in a few cylinders so boring it will now be necessary.
The cam in it is a Hughes hydraulic roller and it specs out at 218/228 duration @ .050 with .544 lift with an RPM range of 1800-6100. That is excellent for a solid street engine. It has these:

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Thicker pushrods too. The man spent some money to build this but once it blew a head gasket, he lost interest in chasing performance so he pulled this one and just swapped in a stock 360.
In regards to the opening comment about a 360 build that has many turns, this engine was almost traded to be built as a stroker 408 for this car owned by a guy named Rich:

68 Dart.png


FABO member RB Convert owns the '68 Dart above. He has one of those Mopar Performance crate 360s in the car, the 380 HP version. He wants to build a bigger and more powerful engine and wants to stick with a roller cam.
I had the thought to trade engines with him....he could use this 1990 block to have the roller cam type block and build the engine over time, then swap them out and I'd keep his engine. It was based on this trade that I started the thread here looking for intake manifold options for a Magnum 5.9/360.

Intake manifold options for a Magnum 5.9/360

Yesterday we tore down the 1990 engine with the intentions of HIM rebuilding it with the 4.0 crank and Trick Flow heads. As we tore it down, he began thinking that it would be a shame to split this engine up.
It would have been fine for me either way....swap and use the Magnum 360 in my Dart or rebuild this 1990 engine for it.
One factor that would sway the final decision was the condition of the bores. If they could clean up the water damage/rust with a basic hone and cleaning, I'd keep it and reuse the Speed Pro pistons it has. If it needed to be bored, maybe he would go ahead and take it.
Well, the machinist did think it would need to go to .030 at least. I thought Rich would reconsider but I think he might have been doing me a favor by suggesting that I keep it. Now I'm going to move ahead and get this dude together for myself.
Using the search feature, I read that this piston is a common choice for 360 builds:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/uem-kb107ktm-030

These come with rings, pins and retainers for the pins. I won't be spraying nitrous, I won't be drag racing either so this type of piston will be fine for me. Heck....I have stock cast pistons in the 70s 360 that is in the car now and that engine runs great.
You may ask why I am replacing an engine that already runs great?
Here is why....

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Last year I picked up that green 4 door and I want to get it up and running. The 4 door has no engine in it so it needs something. The '67 Dart 70s 360 runs great, it just needs attention to some oil leaks. The 4 door is slated to get the 70s 360 and an A-500 4 speed automatic and 3.55 gears for a sweet cruiser that ought to be pretty peppy when I need it to be. This car will get the engine from the black Dart since it is a proven engine so this opened up the options for building another 360 for the black car.
We often feel the need to "justify" the expenses we have with these hobby cars, don't we?
 
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As regard those KB107s
I have those in my 360, which gets abused every time I fire it up, since 1999.
IMO the ring gap spec of .0065/inch bore, "for street", is too tight. I had an impossible to solve overheating issue, right from day one. The Skirt spec of .0015 to .0020 may be ok, IDK; but my engine builder refused to set it that tight. He gave me .0035
I nursed her thru the first summer, then tore her down.
I had the skirts rubbed out to .0040, and installed a file-fit set of rings at .0080 ring factor on the top, and .0070 on the second. I left the oil ring gaps alone at .0065 spec.
That immediately solved the overheating, but on cold mornings, I could hear the piston slap.
I solved that with a hi-flow 195 stat that actually runs at 205/207 at the stat house, and she is underdriven just a bit.. and, I give her a lil time to come up to temp, before beating on her,
With OOTB Edelbrocks, TTIs, an AG/750DP and at 11/1 Scr with a 230/237/110 cam, car has gone 93 in the Eighth with 3.55s at 900ft at 3457 pounds, me in it; on the only one completed run of four it ever made..
To say I was ecstatic is an understatement.
After I solved the heating issues, I got nothing bad to say about those 107s.
By the way, I have consistently run a Q of .028 to .032 on those, with factory rods, with no touching, with the rev-limiter set to 7200. Currently my pistons average .007 above the deck. They fell in at .012 below. So the total deck-mill is about .019
One Time, I ran 028 gaskets, but they barely made it thru the summer, as on teardown, the fire rings were seen to be almost into the valley. But I admit, I was running about 195psi at the time.
Yes, for the first five or six winters, I pulled that 367 out every fall, and swapped in a 318 for the winter; then freshened the 367, for a May-long install. Four of those winters, I caught stuff that would have cost me a lotta money to fix, if they had matured. Most of the gaskets were reuseable, so mostly it just cost me time.
And I learned an awful lot about what doesn't work. and a lil about what does. For example I reused those 039 Fell-pros a couple of times, and got away with it. I still have one used pair hanging in the rafters..... waiting for a project.
But
Those 107s IIRC are just 502 grams, so, I had to rebalance everything.
I'd have no problem using those again. Mine are plus 040.
 
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Another nice choice for LA style pistons is the H116CP. May want to look a those Mr Kern. They are on my radar. Wish I had your roller block for sure. Great starting point.
 
I have wiped out a few cams. The last one was Summer 2022 and it is strongly suspected to be due to the oil that I used since I ran the engine for years with one type of oil then switched, only to have the cam lose several lobes within a few months.
I hate the anxiety of losing a camshaft. I've decided to swap a roller into my big block in another car and since the last of the LA/Magnum engines already had the roller setup, I see no reason to use a flat tappet block.
The machinist is going to see if the block will clean up going from .020 to .030. He thinks it should. I'm not sure how busy he is so the waiting game starts. I'm looking at either .030 or .040 over pistons but won't order them until I know where the block cleans up.
I wish that I was friends with a dyno operator! It would be great to test the car as is, then test it with the next engine. I have a nice 904 in the car but I don't know if I should trust it to hold up given that this engine should make more power. The roller has more compression, more cam, better intake and I'll use headers and 2 1/2" exhaust. Everything steps up on this one.
I have a nice 727 and a factory high stall converter that I could use, that just means drive shaft and linkage modifications. The axle is an 8 3/4" with a 4.10 SG diff.

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Not to turn this into a transmission thread but I would keep the 904 in a light A body especially since it's a street car. Either way if you need a converter I highly recommend Edge Racing Converters. Andre is a MoPar guy too and great prices on a custom converter.
 
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