The Gear Vendors install thread

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kursplat

kursplat

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Hoping to make a good spot to gather all the info from people that have actually installed a gear vendor, to help anyone looking to install one.
Anyone that's done one please post your combos and mods, including year, body style, gears, ect.
thanks

various threads
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3: post 18 and 34
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6: post 671
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68' 4 door valiant w/ factory bucket seats, (don't know if that changes the tunnel area, but mines tight :rolleyes:), 904, 8 3/4" w/ 3.73's and dr diff spring hangers with the front eyes in the upper holes. i'm also putting the trans all the way up so no spacers on the cross member.
my progress, so far
68' Valiant 4 door

i picked up a Gear Vendors a few weeks ago, and finally had time to work on the install.
first, i knew from going though every thread and comment i could find, that there was no way to know if this was going to be easy or not on my car...spoiler alert, it's not. on this car it's not a BFH and a few dents job.

second, the gear vendors manual isn't very good. it's out dated, (they've updated the control unit, and instead of printing new instructions, they include an extra page with the new wiring instructions), and they have assembly steps that they already did. :realcrazy:

everything looks good and was well packed. i was going to just drive down there and pick it up (a couple hours away), but they did free shipping, so that was nice.
tail shaft comparison...
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first thing is swap the tail shaft. i had never removed one before, and was a little worried about getting it back together, but happy to say it wasn't a problem.

until i went to put the cross member back in. that big ring where the OD bolts to the tail shaft housing is at the narrowest part of the tunnel
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those tabs are where my shifter used to mount...
did some measuring and decided to just filet the top of the tunnel and i'll make a new top piece to fit

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of course it once i got the clearance for the ring i found out a casting boss on top of the TS lines up perfectly with the cross member bracing under the floor
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i thought about just grinding it off but would have needed to pull the tail shaft to get up there. i can't imagine GV hasn't had anyone mention this to them. you can see from the cross member bolt hole how close it is to having enough room :mad:

well i decided to open it up from the top and make a window for it. drilled an 1 1/2" hole though the floor and then used a grinder bit to shape what i needed

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a little more massaging toward the back and fits just like it was made for it...:rolleyes:
 
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wish I could find a GV or 2..... none in the boneyards for sure.... seems like any RVs that got em, when junked, they get junked without them being left in there.
my son has both a C body/big block and a Ramcharger that could use a GV. and possibly my D150, being as how no other Mopar trans fits a /6.....
 
more GV progress. decided to use some 11g steel for the tunnel cover. it's a pain to form but the shifter mount needs to go in the same place, and if i used something lighter i'd just need to do some stiffing anyway. started with a piece of 2" pipe clamped to a bench
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then moved on to using the press. made a little adapter to get a better roll in the steel
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welded in and seam sealed
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also noticed the snap ring seal that came with the GV was weeping. i was wondering if it was going to, it's a gasket like material, but didn't fill the void. so i made on from cork
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progress...
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driveshaft ended up at 35" cent > center on the U-joints
 
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tunnel needed a little more clearancing for the speedo adapter. i hadn't noticed how tight it was but HemiDenny mentioned he had to on his. it fit without any extra hammering but was right against the floor pan just at the rear of where i opened everything up. a few wacks with a heavy hammer got it plenty of room.
 
well all the bolt together stuff is done, i think. just the wiring to do but i won't be surprised if i see something i forgot in the A.M.
made a bracket to hold the speedo adapter, re-routed the shifter cable, (but was able to use the same hole in the floor), and hung the exhaust.

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only issue now is the cross over on the tti exhaust is about a 1/4" bellow the oil pan for the GV.
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so, do i move it or just delete it...feel free to chime in.

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I never have liked exhaust cross overs of any kind or shape. They remove some of the crispness of the exhaust note. They really don't add "that much" in the way of power, IMO. Of course exhaust companies will tell you otherwise.
 
You're doing a really great job on this, btw.
 
That’s to close to the pan for me. TTI makes a special “H” pipe for the GVOD setup. (At least they used to for e-bodies) as I had to change mine out when I installed the GVOD 10 or so years ago.

Or I guess you could do away with the crossover as suggested above.
 
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Running a Gear Vendor in mine with 3" TTI headers and Pypes exhaust and mufflers. Had to cut and move the X pipe back but I think it worked out good. I am no pro at this so please forgive my not knowing much.
 
Bought my Gear Vendor about 5 years ago and has been in my car for about 4,000 miles so far and the first thing I did was get rid of the computer and just run manual. I restored my car last year and a half ago and put in a 408 from Blue Print and running 4:10 gears and a 904. I guess my question is I raised the tranny up about a 1/2 inch or less I don't remember now but just put a few dents in the tunnel to get it high enough. Is that sound like I got it high enough?
It's a 73 scamp by the way.
 
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I used this angle finder to get the right angle on my drive shaft and on the instruction sheet from Gear Vendor it says to get the angle off the engine starter and then off the drive line. So set it on the starter zeroed it out then got the angle of the drive shaft.
I think I did it right.
 
Fred Scigliano said:
...and put in a 408 from Blue Print and running 4:10 gears and a 904. I guess my question is I raised the tranny up about a 1/2 inch or less I don't remember now but just put a few dents in the tunnel to get it high enough. Is that sound like I got it high enough?....
I used this angle finder to get the right angle on my drive shaft and on the instruction sheet from Gear Vendor it says to get the angle off the engine starter and then off the drive line. So set it on the starter zeroed it out then got the angle of the drive shaft.
I think I did it right.
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from what i understand, if you have the angles in the right range and no vibration, your good. i have the same type of angle finder. works great. i'll be doing a BP 408 also to go with my 3.73's and 904. wanting to get the rest of the drive line done before doing the motor.

cut the crossover out and got the exhaust buttoned up. will try to get the wiring done today. Fred, did you just not like the computer or never use it?

RustyRatRod said:
I never have liked exhaust cross overs of any kind or shape. They remove some of the crispness of the exhaust note. They really don't add "that much" in the way of power, IMO. Of course exhaust companies will tell you otherwise.
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my 74' didn't have a crossover and i did like the little bit of raspiness. i doubt the crossover was in the exact right place for this or the next motor anyway. the way i understand it each combo is going to be a little different where it works best.
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kursplat said:
from what i understand, if you have the angles in the right range and no vibration, your good. i have the same type of angle finder. works great. i'll be doing a BP 408 also to go with my 3.73's and 904. wanting to get the rest of the drive line done before doing the motor.

cut the crossover out and got the exhaust buttoned up. will try to get the wiring done today. Fred, did you just not like the computer or never use it?


my 74' didn't have a crossover and i did like the little bit of raspiness. i doubt the crossover was in the exact right place for this or the next motor anyway. the way i understand it each combo is going to be a little different where it works best.
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The computer started screwing up on mine so called GV and they said I could just do away with it but to make sure I take it out of over drive when I back up or I'll toast it.
Looks like your doing a great job on your car gonna be sweet when your done.
 
Fred Scigliano said:
The computer started screwing up on mine so called GV and they said I could just do away with it but to make sure I take it out of over drive when I back up or I'll toast it.
Looks like your doing a great job on your car gonna be sweet when your done.
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was the controller the original style or one of these new ones made by MSD?
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kursplat said:
was the controller the original style or one of these new ones made by MSD?
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The original style that they had problems with.
I like doing the manual shifting into overdrive, I'm use to it and never had a problem. I still have the red and green lights hooked up and an on off switch that I use when I let someone else drive my car so they don't screw up.
And I shut the power off when I'm in town.
 
well, the car is on the ground, but ran out of time for a test drive. you wouldn't think it takes very long to weld in a couple exhaust hangers but my upside down left handed mig skills are just as crappy as ever :lol:
 
and now back to As the Gear Vendors Turns...
looks like the control box is bad. got everything wired, nothing works. no lights, no self check, nada. went through all their diagnosis and double checked my wiring, couldn't find anything. so i decided to bypass the controller and just try it in manual. works great now :D
called GV and they're going to send a new unit and wiring harness, just need to return the old stuff.
 
I just updated or installed the new control unit as seen above as the old one had become erratic in auto mode. Have not drove the car yet but the lights and all seem to work correctly. Keeping my fingers crossed after reading the post above.
 
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