The "Indestructible" Slant 6

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Cowboy

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So much for all the hype about these things being bullet proof engines. My 77' Super six ended spectacularly. The factory rod found a weak point, cracked, shattered, and wedged itself between the crank and the block. Busted the front corner of the block out and stuck the engine tight. It had never been over revved, run low on oil, or abused in any way, the rod just failed.

Luckily I was driving the car at the time and so just getting up to speed after turning onto a back road (I wouldn't want to think about it happening to my family on the highway...).

The engine's going to the scrap heap, and I'm going to attempt to sell the super six intake and tranny to recoup some the money I poured into this pile. I'm beginning my engine and tranny swap now and the only guarantee I can make about it is it will be a v8 and four speed and none of it is going be Mopar.
 

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Damn....... I was at a car show once and they had a betting pool on how long it would take a slant 6 to blow (it was still in an early 60s Dart).

They wired the throttle wide open, drained the oil and it still took 1.5 hours for the thing to let go.
 
now time to put a crappy chebby engine in there and see how many more rods you can push out through
 
That sucks. The journal still looks good (no Heat). The twist has me baffled, but sometimes when **** goes bad, it goes bad big. I see the pin, what happened to the piston?

I know your po'ed, but please rethink the non-Mopar swap, the're not all bad.
 
The rod didn't fail. Something caused its failure. I am thinking a piston skirt probably broke off and fell into things. Most of the time they simply fall into the oil pan, but everynow and then.......


KABLOOWY.
 
OldmanRick, the twist is from the crank smashing it against the side of the block. The crank is bent bad, but the bearing surface is in good shape. The piston is still in the cylinder and in good condition except where the pin was ripped out of it during the failure.

I've been burned one too many times by Mopar parts and professionals to even want to think about considering using anything else from them. The latest being a realignment from the local dealer done by a member of this site who insured me he knew everything about these cars, and proceeded to toe the front end in 3" and then told me the reason it tracked funny was because my brand new master cylinder was 40+ years old and was sticking. They still refused to give me a refund when I brought the spec sheet in from a different shop in to show them it was out of alignment. Haven't had an issue since I had it realigned elsewhere.
 
The rod flatout failed, looking at the breaks it is obvious it was cracked for a while and eventually spread open and failed. The skirt did not cause this a weak rod caused this.
 
weak rods that propel many race cars (NA and BOOST) into the 10's, 11's, 12's...etc

being yours is a 77 its a cast crank so i dont know about the rods but non cast crank motors have forged crank and rods. you got the bad end of the stick for sure but how many miles are on that engine?
 
I concur with rod failure. I put 250k on a slanty in a taxi and it still drove itself to the junk yard (broken frame). I've seen FABO members offer free slantys, so don't give up yet on Mopar.

Maybe try a RB or 360?
 
The later rods are also forged but they are different to work with the cast crank. They are non interchangeable between forged and cast cranks. They also use different main and rod bearings form a forged crank motor. The blocks are even different. I wish that wasn't the case because one of the cylinders in my slant I am now building for the rat truck is pitted BAD. But it's gonna get run. lol
 
I zeroed out the odometer of '69 Dart #2 at 100k,sent the crank and rods out expecting to be replacing one or all,got the word that everything was still within factory specs !!!Sorry for your misfortune !!
 
You killed it !!!
:violent1::violent1::violent1:
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=161730

Well... I got a poorly running slant that I'm at wits end with and ready to replace, but I'm still willing to give it a second chance. Maybe one of you fellas can help me. Please. No one else has been able to help or even try to explain it.

My '74 Duster has never ran right since I bought it. The engine isn't original and had been swapped in prior to my purchasing of the car. It is a 1977 Super Six out of I presume a Volare. It had a bad off idle hesitation that would kill the engine. I chalked it up as a carb issue and figured a carb rebuild would set it straight, it didn't. I've managed to decrease the size and position of the dead spot, but I can't get rid of it no matter what I do.

The back story:

The engine has had a complete rebuild. The rebuild wasn't initially intended but when I pulled the engine out to fix a bad rear main seal shortly after buying it I found cam bearing material all over the inside of oil pan. I installed federal mogul main, rod, and cam bearings. Cleaned up the cam, rebuilt the oil pump, polished up the cylinder walls, new gaskets, rings, timing chain, adjusted the valves, your basic rebuild. Everything was federal mogul or fel-pro, timing chain was a cloyes. Brand new ignition, plugs wires, cap, rotor, and vacuum advance. All Borg-Warner, and Autolite parts. The factory exhaust was replaced with 2 1/2 od pipe.

For the intake the studs are original, the intake hasn't been surfaced, but I pulled it out last week and inspected it. The gasket showed no signs of leaking. The egr had been wiped out prior to my purchasing the car. Someone had cut and beat out the wheel and flap inside the exhaust manifold and replaced it with a bolt and made a block off plate for the intake. For the intake stack everything was installed and torqued to Chilton's standards during my rebuild and the recent reinstallation of the intake.

The engine doesn't have a vacuum leak, it isn't sucking exhaust, the compression test was perfect, and the vacuum and mechanical advance are operating correctly. Mechanical this engine has nothing wrong! It just doesn't run right.

The engine has had six different carburetors on it now, ranging from new out of the box to rebuilt from the local scrapyard. The issue has remained constant through each carb swap showing it isn't the carb. It prefers a Motorcraft 2100 1.21 venturi (way too big, I know) with the timing advanced to 22 degrees.

To help the timing issue I hooked up an OSAC valve backwards, I was able then to bump the timing back down to 12 degress. This has helped more than anything. The dead spot is now around 30 mph or about 1/3 throttle, no longer off idle. It stumbles, coughs, sputters, and surges all over the place if you hold the throttle constant, but refuses to die. Simply letting up, or pushing the pedal down just a hair instantly overcomes this dead spot. It is the oddest thing I have ever seen.

The dead spot is noticable upon acceleration both from a stop and cruising down the highway, but the engine shrugs it off unless you hold the throttle constant in the "dead zone."

It seems like the engine is missing something, but I don't know what. I'd hate to get rid of it, but unless it gets its problem sorted out, I see no other option.
 
it will be a v8 and four speed and none of it is going be Mopar.
don't let the door hit you on the *** on the way out.




Damn....... I was at a car show once and they had a betting pool on how long it would take a slant 6 to blow (it was still in an early 60s Dart).

They wired the throttle wide open, drained the oil and it still took 1.5 hours for the thing to let go.
I remember a magazine article where they decided to 'kill' a slanty- they drained the oil and coolant and fired it up. It kept stalling...eventually...and then they'd fire it up again. They finally gave up lol.
 
You're telling me I blew my own engine up after determining it was a flow problem with the head where it lost all vacuum at a certain rpm and proceeded to fix it and install a $900 turbo set up just to blow the engine up a year or so later after driving it and depending on it every day? Hands off to your logic. The rod failed, whether I had it or someone else did it still would have failed. I don't blow a bunch of money on an engine just to tear it up.
 

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It was not denotation either the piston is in perfect condition except for where the rod was ripped out of it and can be seen still intact in my photos in the the cylinder. Worst part is now I have a turbo full of metal that I have to rebuild again.
 
if u have evreything there and your "900 dollar setup" it baffles me why dont u just get another slant and do it right and have it built not rely on what a previous owner told you "never been ran low oil,never over rev'd" seems like a waste to buy eveything to convert and a tranny and a v8 ShitChevy.
 
You were flying outside the original design envelope with a turbo, so have to expect some issues. At least don't fault the designers. No engine is indestructible. Haven't you heard that M-B 300D diesels are "million mile" engines? Mine failed at 330K. Those are also turbo, and are not near as robust as people imagine. The slant has earned a reputation as one of the most dependable engines ever, but that doesn't mean they never fail. It sure is cheap to get a replacement though.
 
Because Mopar parts are just too expensive to justify going through this again. The turbo is lined up for another project as well.
 
My friend Chris noticed something several years ago....remember the old oil additive commercials where they'd have the car on the lift, and pull the oil pan and let it run with no oil?

Slant 6 FTW
 
Because Mopar parts are just too expensive to justify going through this again. The turbo is lined up for another project as well.

Then go ahead and put in the Chevy engine and quit whining about it to us ya tit.
Go ahead and put a 230 or 292 Chev inline 6 or whatever in it and do what you have done to the slant 6 and see what happens.
They a'int any better.
Better yet, go buy a Chev car and don't run a mopar body in your frankenstein piece of ****.
Why the hell did you get into mopars anyway?
You're obviously a Chevy guy.
Nothing wrong with that, just stick to what you like.
Rant over.
 
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