Cuda Al
Well-Known Member
Now the get the rest done.
Alan
Alan
The topless adventures of Cuda Al
- Thread starter Cuda Al
- Start date
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Those indoor work pics remind me of rebuilding a Suzuki GSXR1100 engine on the mattress box springs in a hotel one night.
And when I was painting the engine compartment on the swinger... wearing a tyvex suit, respirator, spray gun in hand, shooting primer, the HOA violation nazi drove up asked me what I was doing and that "painting" was not allowed in driveways. Told her I was fumigating for roaches and black widows.
Cool on the work you are doing, car looks great
And when I was painting the engine compartment on the swinger... wearing a tyvex suit, respirator, spray gun in hand, shooting primer, the HOA violation nazi drove up asked me what I was doing and that "painting" was not allowed in driveways. Told her I was fumigating for roaches and black widows.
Cool on the work you are doing, car looks great
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Cuda Al
Well-Known Member
Did a little bit during the week after work, mounted the ignition module under the battery tray. In the past I just screwed it to the tray but that left the screws going into the battery (a spacer was used to keep that from happening). Also dressed out the front of the engine. and got the harness in.
days later I go the hood latch washer system and who knows what else.
The wiper motor was sent out to be restored.
Then I noticed that the power steering belt was not aligned, the pulley on the pump was for the slant six, the small block uses a different pulley.
Alan
days later I go the hood latch washer system and who knows what else.
The wiper motor was sent out to be restored.
Then I noticed that the power steering belt was not aligned, the pulley on the pump was for the slant six, the small block uses a different pulley.
Alan
Cuda Al
Well-Known Member
The weekend started off with getting the radiator in and cooler lines hooked up. As shipped one of the lines was short, there was a loop that I was able to open up to make up the difference.
Put the distributor and coil in then all the plugs and wires.
Got the exhaust bracket in.
Finished up with getting as much of the details as I could done.
For the most part done under the hood.
Master Cylinder
Steering Column
Speedometer Cable
Voltage Regulator...
Other stuff
8-3/4 rear (ready to go in)
Exhaust
Steering column (needs partial detailing)
Alan
Put the distributor and coil in then all the plugs and wires.
Got the exhaust bracket in.
Finished up with getting as much of the details as I could done.
For the most part done under the hood.
Master Cylinder
Steering Column
Speedometer Cable
Voltage Regulator...
Other stuff
8-3/4 rear (ready to go in)
Exhaust
Steering column (needs partial detailing)
Alan
Nicely detailed! 
Love that color.
Love that color.junkyardhero
Well-Known Member
nicely done playa, looks sharp!
where'd you come up on the lower pulley? or was it all the upper throwing everything off?
where'd you come up on the lower pulley? or was it all the upper throwing everything off?
Cuda Al
Well-Known Member
Nothing yet, the problem is the PS pulley, I thought it might easier to use a 3 groove lower. I sent Borgeson an email enquiring about the fix.
Alan
junkyardhero
Well-Known Member
word. let me know how that all shakes out in that i may be headed down the same path soon-ish.
i have a scant few PS pulleys, but hit me on the tech line if you need me to put my calibrated hairy eyeball on one for ya.
Very nice. The detailing looks awesome
Cuda Al
Well-Known Member
We'll start off with the minor stuff.
One of the voltage regulator screws had been stripped and had a 5/16 bolt on it, a 1/4-20 rivnut solved the problem. Although the factory screws are pilot self cutting they are 1/4-20 bolts. There is a panel just behind this that almost didn't let the rivnut insert enough, as I compressed it the insert pulled the last bit seating itself just fine.
Found a power steering pulley with the correct offset but it is too small, I have a correct one coming in.
Got the exhaust installed, the system is from Accurate Exhaust. The rear left side bracket has a flange for the brake line so I needed to put a spacer in with the hanger.
I still need to go through it some more and tweak the alignment and tighten everything even more.
Getting down to the end...
Steering coupler came apart when pulling the k-member. Probably would have taken it off anyway as i needed to blast the end of the column housing and shaft to repaint and detail.
All done under the hood
Several hours later I went to look at it and saw a puddle of brake fluid, oops I hadn't attached the brake line to the hose, done now. (had to do the rear hose as well)
Alan
One of the voltage regulator screws had been stripped and had a 5/16 bolt on it, a 1/4-20 rivnut solved the problem. Although the factory screws are pilot self cutting they are 1/4-20 bolts. There is a panel just behind this that almost didn't let the rivnut insert enough, as I compressed it the insert pulled the last bit seating itself just fine.
Found a power steering pulley with the correct offset but it is too small, I have a correct one coming in.
Got the exhaust installed, the system is from Accurate Exhaust. The rear left side bracket has a flange for the brake line so I needed to put a spacer in with the hanger.
I still need to go through it some more and tweak the alignment and tighten everything even more.
Getting down to the end...
Steering coupler came apart when pulling the k-member. Probably would have taken it off anyway as i needed to blast the end of the column housing and shaft to repaint and detail.
All done under the hood
Several hours later I went to look at it and saw a puddle of brake fluid, oops I hadn't attached the brake line to the hose, done now. (had to do the rear hose as well)
Alan
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Cuda Al
Well-Known Member
With everything in place it was time for a test run. My friend came over and we went to fire it up and we were getting sparks from where the battery cable bolts to the block. Removed the cable, sanded the paint off both the head and the cable, problem solved. Even then we were getting nothing at the starter relay, just put a temporary neutral safety bypass in and we were in business. Once it fired up we checked for leaks and anything out of place, we noticed a minor rattle coming from both valve covers.
We shut it off and pull the covers and noticed the adjustable rocker studs were hitting the baffle in the cover, it was minor. We were able to knock the baffle in enough to clear.
Back together we fired it up and let it run.
Alan
We shut it off and pull the covers and noticed the adjustable rocker studs were hitting the baffle in the cover, it was minor. We were able to knock the baffle in enough to clear.
Back together we fired it up and let it run.
Alan
Cuda Al
Well-Known Member
Last week (Tuesday) I got the 7-1/4 out and the next day got the 8-3/4 in. Took measurements for the driveshaft and relayed them to the driveline shop. I picked up the driveshaft a couple days ago and got it in that evening.
How cute
This morning with help we blead the brakes finding some leaks, took care of the leaks, finished bleeding the brakes. Torqued all the wheels and hit the road.
We put about 50 miles on it, mostly highway with a couple good grades. It just idles along. Got back, adjusted the ride height some more and put the wheel covers on.
Need to adjust the headlights this evening then make a couple adjustments on the tailpipes but otherwise it is done.
Alan
How cute
This morning with help we blead the brakes finding some leaks, took care of the leaks, finished bleeding the brakes. Torqued all the wheels and hit the road.
We put about 50 miles on it, mostly highway with a couple good grades. It just idles along. Got back, adjusted the ride height some more and put the wheel covers on.
Need to adjust the headlights this evening then make a couple adjustments on the tailpipes but otherwise it is done.
Alan
Cuda Al
Well-Known Member
Another thing we noticed on the test drive was that the speedometer was off, not sure why, same speedometer pinion was used, same ratio (3,23) in the rear, same tires?
Will do some test drives and adjust.
Alan
Will do some test drives and adjust.
Alan
Cuda Al
Well-Known Member
About 500 miles on the car with the new engine and just as I was getting home after a 100 drive I hit a speed bump by the house and I hear something clank falling off the car car. The counterweight on the exhaust broke off. I needed to jack the right side of the engine up as far as it would go so I could wiggle the manifold out.
In the middle of getting it fixed, should have it back together before Saturday so I can take the car to the Fall Fling in Van Nuys.
Alan
In the middle of getting it fixed, should have it back together before Saturday so I can take the car to the Fall Fling in Van Nuys.
Alan
You are supposed to slow down when navigating a speed bump 
Cuda Al
Well-Known Member
I was able to get the manifold fixed. I chose to tap the counterweight and just bolt it to the manifold.
I did my best to seal the bolt.
A spacer was needed to make it look right. A washer was needed to keep it square. The other parts were put in to complete the look.
The car made it to the show. On another note the recalibrated speedometer was spot on, 98.7% (3.5 miles over 278), the next tooth would throw it over the same amount.
Alan
I did my best to seal the bolt.
A spacer was needed to make it look right. A washer was needed to keep it square. The other parts were put in to complete the look.
The car made it to the show. On another note the recalibrated speedometer was spot on, 98.7% (3.5 miles over 278), the next tooth would throw it over the same amount.
Alan
Cuda Al
Well-Known Member
Oddities
Shortly after getting the car I noticed that it didn't have provisions for the Certi-Card by the battery that was typical on 67s. I checked the backside to see if there were ever holes and the original undercoating looks undistributed.
Number two, the hood has the access holes for the hood mounted turn signals. This was a new item in 68 and has typically been a way to know a 67 hood from a 68 hood. Yes it is possible that the hood was replaced but I don't think so, the car has been well cared for and has had no reason to replace it. The car is a very late 67 so they may have already added to hole knowing it would be needed and didn't want to have hoods without the holes going into the 68 run. We'll never know.
Number three, the vacuum gauge is not coded on the data tag, not all options are but the vacuum gauge typically is. The hole in the firewall is in a different location than you normally see it, the hole itself isn't the right size as the grommet is difficult to get in. This may have just been a slip on the line, again we'll never know.
Alan
Shortly after getting the car I noticed that it didn't have provisions for the Certi-Card by the battery that was typical on 67s. I checked the backside to see if there were ever holes and the original undercoating looks undistributed.
Number two, the hood has the access holes for the hood mounted turn signals. This was a new item in 68 and has typically been a way to know a 67 hood from a 68 hood. Yes it is possible that the hood was replaced but I don't think so, the car has been well cared for and has had no reason to replace it. The car is a very late 67 so they may have already added to hole knowing it would be needed and didn't want to have hoods without the holes going into the 68 run. We'll never know.
Number three, the vacuum gauge is not coded on the data tag, not all options are but the vacuum gauge typically is. The hole in the firewall is in a different location than you normally see it, the hole itself isn't the right size as the grommet is difficult to get in. This may have just been a slip on the line, again we'll never know.
Alan
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