nothingbutdarts
Well-Known Member
Any one tried to make something work to make a manual choke on a thermoquad? The way the choke coil pushes up on the choke mechanism it's almost impossable to get one of those manual cable on it to convert it.
Thermoquad choke conversion
- Thread starter nothingbutdarts
- Start date
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I have and it's ugly and finiky to deal with. I even did a set up with an electric choke useing the stuff off of an AFB mounted to a pair of "L" brackets on a plate under the carb.
For a manual choke, it is easier to go to the other side (Drivers) and use a "L" bracket and the big hole to mount it. Now use a screw down holder, like a manual choke cable holder for /from a Holley or Carter and drill a mounting point down low on the bracket angled upwards to the top of the carb.
Disconnect the linkage and use the existing hole to operate. I think I may have a picture around. If not, Later after a vote, I'll go back into the garage and recreate it. It was easy enuff.
For a manual choke, it is easier to go to the other side (Drivers) and use a "L" bracket and the big hole to mount it. Now use a screw down holder, like a manual choke cable holder for /from a Holley or Carter and drill a mounting point down low on the bracket angled upwards to the top of the carb.
Disconnect the linkage and use the existing hole to operate. I think I may have a picture around. If not, Later after a vote, I'll go back into the garage and recreate it. It was easy enuff.
contact member "Demonsizzler" here at his site; http://thermoquads.com/
nothingbutdarts
Well-Known Member
Thanks I'll look into that. They are a pain in the rear to get at the choke linkage.
Oh crap! I forgot, sorry man. It's been a long day.
The linkage part on the drivers side is easier to deal with and hook up a cable to it.
The linkage part on the drivers side is easier to deal with and hook up a cable to it.
nothingbutdarts
Well-Known Member
No problem, it's not the weekend anyway and I won't be in the garage till then.
The ex and I used to have a 78 Magnum XE, factory 400, t-tops. White with red leather buckets. It was a very nice car though it was a heavy car. I had put a cheepo rebuilt 440 in it for the ex to race it in club clash. Here at 5,200' it would run low 16's. It went by the way side though. Wish I still had it!
You have to forgive me, vaction came and dominated my mind set.
In order,;
The first picture shows a simple metal bracket I had layin around. I bent it at a 90* angle, drilled a small hole at the bottom to attach a stock cable holding bracket part from A Holley or Edelbrock, I'm not sure, there all the same really.
I'm holding the scew driver to position the cable clamp bracket at the approx angle it will need to be so the cable is angled to move the linkage smoothly without binding.
DO NOTICE that the carb is missing a linkage part. This is where the cable will attach.
Picture 1 & 2.
Notice that I used a simple nut and bolt with washers to attach the 90* bracket to the hole at the rear drivers corner of the carb. This hole is found on all T-Q's, or that I have come across.
The pictured screw driver in pic. #2 doesn't show so well that the hole below it is not exactly in line with the one above. Just a nut and bolt with washers/lock washers will do just fine.
Picture #3 shows a LD-340, non -Chrysler/Direct Connection model with a flat spot on the passenger side. IF you have this, it may be possible to purchase the pictured Edelbrock divorced choke and use a coat hanger for a rod to attach to the correct side of the T-Q in the correct OE spot. A small nice can be cut into the coat hanger to use the OE clips to retain the coat hanger.
In order,;
The first picture shows a simple metal bracket I had layin around. I bent it at a 90* angle, drilled a small hole at the bottom to attach a stock cable holding bracket part from A Holley or Edelbrock, I'm not sure, there all the same really.
I'm holding the scew driver to position the cable clamp bracket at the approx angle it will need to be so the cable is angled to move the linkage smoothly without binding.
DO NOTICE that the carb is missing a linkage part. This is where the cable will attach.
Picture 1 & 2.
Notice that I used a simple nut and bolt with washers to attach the 90* bracket to the hole at the rear drivers corner of the carb. This hole is found on all T-Q's, or that I have come across.
The pictured screw driver in pic. #2 doesn't show so well that the hole below it is not exactly in line with the one above. Just a nut and bolt with washers/lock washers will do just fine.
Picture #3 shows a LD-340, non -Chrysler/Direct Connection model with a flat spot on the passenger side. IF you have this, it may be possible to purchase the pictured Edelbrock divorced choke and use a coat hanger for a rod to attach to the correct side of the T-Q in the correct OE spot. A small nice can be cut into the coat hanger to use the OE clips to retain the coat hanger.
.........Y in the f---k would u not want 2 use the factory set up?.........is the choke coil electric?.......or is the mani passages plugged and not letting the coil work...........kim......if u need parts i have 100s.........
Kim, is that directed to me?
Sometimes intakes do not have provisions for the stock choke, no well and the electric choke version is not so easy to get.
Sometimes intakes do not have provisions for the stock choke, no well and the electric choke version is not so easy to get.
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