Thinking of racing the Scamp

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straightlinespeed

Sometimes I pretend to be normal
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Im tossing around the idea of racing my Scamp. Its a 71 with a 318. Does anyone have any ideas what times this stock engine car will run in a 1/4. Im thinking a natural O stock car. I believe to run in O stock it will have to be a 13.50 second car.

The only reason I ask is because my engine needs a rebuild. Do you guys think its possible to get this engine to run those numbers without spending a whole ton of money?
 
Unless this will be a serious track only stocker, you may want to rethink your decision. Just a quick glance at the O/SA NHRA index looks like it's 13.15. And to qualify at most events you need to be close to or above a second under to be in the top of the field. I'm not sure that your combo even falls in to that class, i just looked at what you posted. Running Nhra/Ihra sportsman classes takes a real commitment to constantly improving your combo. These classes haven't been for street driven cars for a long time. It's cool to run at the Divisional races and maybe a few National events, but it gets pricey in a hurry to be and stay competitive. Also, keep in mind that Stock class racing is bracket racing once you qualify, unless you draw someone in your own class and then it's heads up.......and you really need to be on your game then :D.
 
Perhaps you might want to consider bracket racing?
 
hi, it will take a lot of work to make it competitive. you will have to run 13.15 or quicker. it will not be street drivable!, gear ratio will be 5 to 1 or deeper.
high dollar torque convertor, special cam, referred to as a cheater cam, trick ring combo, prepared stocker heads, tricked up carb. suspension will be just for racing. theres a lot more to stock eliminator than meets the eye or pocket book!! its not for the faint hearted. its a lot of serious fun though. a thinking mans eliminator. just telling you what you are up against. we run a 340 duster in stock eliminator. just food for thought. you can run brackets to get a feel for racing, then step up to the plate later on.
 
Perhaps you might want to consider bracket racing?

Yep, that's what i'd do. A good quality rebuild with some bolt on's and a little cam should get you in the 14's and that will get you in most no electronics brackets. From what i've seen, they run somewhere in the 15.99 to 11's range. You can sign up at your local track for points and have a blast. I actually like being slow for a bracket and being chased. Yea you can redlight first, but if you get the hang of cutting lights, you'll do real well.
 
actually go to a national or division race and talk to someone about stock eliminator ...

there are certain combo that run fast...and others that are not fast...do not see too many 318 two barrels in stock....
 
Really,go to a test and tune.Learn it.Keep a log book.Record every adjustment.If you wanna learn to go fast.Simplest way.Run your ride,establish a base time.Ask lots of questions.The racers here love talking newbie bafflegab,how I learned....
 
Thanks everyone for your input!

My brother currently races in stock and in brackets. He is the one that put the bug in my head. I was a little leery about my engine preforming to those numbers. He does have a 383 out of one of his drag cars that we talked about putting in my car. Although he wanted me to race with him at the nationals, I think that is why he wants me to build the 318. Granted if I changed the entire look of the car to what ever year Dart came with a 383 that would be different. Looks like my racing will have to wait for a little while!

Oh and yes he did let me run his bracket car for 3 different races and I had a blast! Hell I even went a couple rounds at one of the races! Just wish I had the cash flow to get into it!
 
After being around McMillen for awhile and $50,000 weekends.

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Being around Jim Coughlin National record holder in some 4 banger class-11.48 or something like that.
$35-40,000 in his car.
Maybe he makes it to 5-6 regional races a year.
Cost per event $1500-2000.
Unless he races at his home track-1 mile away then only the entry fee and normal wear costs.

My race car is a 9.02 Dart.
racecar.jpg

Improvements last year to go 1/2 second faster $4800
Ran the car 1 time.

Put a 512 in my Street Charger and ran it 25 pass's.
Ran 11.80 something.
But I was having fun doing it.

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The car I have the least amount of money and the most fun is my Duster and the one I take to the grocery store.
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The moral for me is be happy with what you have.
My story is I should stayed with 1 car.
It cost a lot of money to race especially if you are racing a spec type class.

I also would go along with the guys saying to go bracket racing.

Good luck in what ever you decide to do.
 
Several guys in the area including the Irvings have close to $30,000 in the engine alone for stock class to be competitive.If you got the dough,,go for it.
 
Several guys in the area including the Irvings have close to $30,000 in the engine alone for stock class to be competitive.If you got the dough,,go for it.

The " letter " classes are my favorite. Stock , Super Stock and Competition Eliminator.
Reading from left to right , the costs up significantly with each class , and none of them could be considered cheap.
If I wanted to go stock eliminator racing ( I can't afford it , so let's put that idea to bed right now ) , I would have to hire out too much to see any kind of return other than the satisfaction of competing.
Bracket racing is the only real option for a lot of us.
Good fun , good people for the most part and all the competition you can stand. :D
But I am really glad that there are a lot of folks who can run stock.
Way easier to identify with these cars than any of the " pro " classes.
 
the beauty of bracket racing........Run what you brung!!!!

You can make any thing competitive.

A few years back this guy with a 68 eash Cuda bent a push rod and threw out a lifter. only need to win two more round and the trophy AND the champion ship was his!!!
Desperate, he barrowed his girl friends Geo Metro!
Semi's the guy next to him red lit and gave him the chance to put true dial in on the car for the final round.
:wack:
HE got the final round win in the metro. With a Tad bit of sand bagging at the end of the track.

It don't matter how fast you go, only that you run consistent.
When i started racing i had a 318 2.76 geared e body that ran high 19's.
The race champion that year, in my sportsman class, was a chev station wagon that ran 18's.

I say run what you brung and build on it from there!!!!!!!!!
 
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