Thoughts on new carb !

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22dog22

22dog22

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Looking to replace my old Holley carb, it is a OEM part from a Ford no service parts available, I see Holley has a Classic 4160 , 0-80458SA and a Holley Street Warrior 4160,0-80457S, along with a Brawler Die cast unit, BR67270

Not sure of the difference of the Holley Classic and the Street Warrior, at this point I like the Brawler for the 600 cfm br67270 it is around 381.95 vs the Classic for 453.95 and the Street Warrior for 440.95.
 
Could you maybe tell us what it might be going on? If you want real answers, that's one idea.
 
I have a almost new carb for sale. It has adjustable air bleeds too.

www.forabodiesonly.com

[FOR SALE] - QFT Slayer 600 cfm vac sec

Quick Fuel Slayer Series Carburetors SL-1957E Bought this carb brand new 7/22. Runs great. Vacuum secondary and electric choke. Switched to annular booster carb. I bet it doesn't have 300 miles on it. Sprayed with WD40 for protection. $350. Shipped to lower 48. Paypal F&F.
www.forabodiesonly.com www.forabodiesonly.com
 
Ok here is the story, I have owned this 69 Cuda for about 12 years bought as a project car, had engine rebuilt by a local Mopar engine shop a Wayne Hyrowick near Allentown Pa. .30 over 318, Keith Black piston #167, Hastings Piston rings, Comp cam 901-16 springs, Comp. cam Xtreme Energy 20-223-3 cam, SBI Valves 1.88in, 1.5 exh., Baked & blast heads, Bore & hone with deck plate, Balance assy, polished crank, Bronze valve guides, comp. valve job, resurfaced heads, resized 8 rods, done 4/5/2014, since I have had this engine running has never idled smoothly.

I had a friend of mine stop by shortly after getting it running and broken in, to help set up this Holley carburetor per Holley rep. LIST 6989 0388 is from a Ford production car with 600 cfm, I bought this carb at the Mopar show here in Charlise Pa. from a father and son that rebuilds carbs, along with a new Procomp electronics distributor and there Procomp pc91 coil.

This carb is on a Edelbrock 2176 manifold. i have only about 250 miles on this car, as stated never idled smoothly , seems like it would miss at idle, I have doubled check spark plug wires, late last year took car to a local cruise, found that was not charging and car was running very very poorly did not want to idle [ stall at stop signs] thought because of low voltage due to faulty regulator that was the problem.

Over this past winter I replaced the voltage reg. and had to replace the battery. Come this year I was hopeful that was the problem.
Took it for a short drive but still would not idle/stay running in gear, came home was looking at the carb. linkages , I have the Lokar throttle cable kit and there Kickdown cable conversion kit since I have a 904 auto trans, and found that the mount bracket for these cables where missed aligned, there is a set screw that is to keep this bracket from moving so I corrected the alignment when I did the carb throttle plate snapped closed so I was hope full that was the reason why the car would not idle in gear and keep stalling.

So I was able to test drive but still would not idle stay running in gear, so I posted on here and the thought was it was a carb issue which I think the same that is why I am looking into replacing the carb. Holley seems to be a lot of people thoughts also. I want to pick up some brake cleaner to check to make sure I do not have a vacuum leak some where.
 
Where is the timing set at ? Idle speed ? Low initial timing with that cam in a 318 coupled to a stock torque converter might pull the idle speed down quite a bit in gear.
 
14deg. base and 40 deg. total, idle is about 750 in park, have a high stall torque converter [ not sure of size] nothing noted on trans, rebuilt paper work. has a superior shift kit installed.
 
Post #7 is most of your problem. A sizeable cam in a small engine....& only 14* of timing at idle.
It will want about double that, maybe more.
Read the link about the importance of idle timing.

img267.jpg
 
thank you Bewy and Rusty Rat Rod, I do not see a link to read about timing that Bewy stated in his post, I will see if I can find that book Vizards How To Super Tune A Holley Carb., I also something from Edelbrock but can not rear the print. I just wanted to add that late last night I was looking over the ignition system pulled the dist. cap found the end contact[ not top center contact ] was half covered with some corrosion there , I cleaned it up want to see if that had to due with anything.
 
Hi all looking at other parts of ignition system pulled plugs all appear to be light tan in color, have NGK gr4gp plugs, I was surprised at the center electrode it is very narrow compared to other plugs I have seen I looked on line at photos of the NGK plugs and they look like mine so I think they are fine, the very last threads have some carbon on them but the electrode area is a nice tan color photo not the greatest

spark plug 2023-08-19 001.JPG
 
Thank you Inertia, Ok just worked on this Holley, started with fuel level adjustment, then set idle, next moved on to the air fuel adjustment, before I touched the adjustment screws I just wanted to see where they where, as I turned them in they only moved about 1/2 turn on both of them till they stopped, I thought this maybe my problem, because they tell you to turn the air fuel screws in to stop and turn out 1-1/2 so that is where I started at, adjusted both side air fuel screws in to stop and out 1-1/2 turns , started car ran very poorly , I then did a 1/4 turn out got worst, I had a vacuum gauge hooked up trying to get the max. inches of vacuum, the best I could get was 15 inches of vac. and to get that I had the screws turned just about where I started at, only less then 1/2 turn from being fully seated, so I know this is not correct, I want to get so brake fluid to spray around to see if I have any vacuum leaks. If I moved the idle up to near 1000 rpm I would get about 17 inches of Vacuum.
 
22dog22 said:
Thank you Inertia, Ok just worked on this Holley, started with fuel level adjustment, then set idle, next moved on to the air fuel adjustment, before I touched the adjustment screws I just wanted to see where they where, as I turned them in they only moved about 1/2 turn on both of them till they stopped, I thought this maybe my problem, because they tell you to turn the air fuel screws in to stop and turn out 1-1/2 so that is where I started at, adjusted both side air fuel screws in to stop and out 1-1/2 turns , started car ran very poorly , I then did a 1/4 turn out got worst, I had a vacuum gauge hooked up trying to get the max. inches of vacuum, the best I could get was 15 inches of vac. and to get that I had the screws turned just about where I started at, only less then 1/2 turn from being fully seated, so I know this is not correct, I want to get so brake fluid to spray around to see if I have any vacuum leaks. If I moved the idle up to near 1000 rpm I would get about 17 inches of Vacuum.
Click to expand...


The fact the mixture screws have any authority (work) shows the t-
slot is very close.
Starting at 1 1/2 turns out is just a industry starting point, thus the adjustment afterward.
Believe your vacuum guage, myself, I'd be happy where it is, and check that every other aspect of the tune up, timing, dwell, pcv, etc. is correct before messing with the carb.
jmo
Good job .
 
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RustyRatRod said:
Yea, and totally unnecessary.
Click to expand...

I had no experience using platinums prior to purchasing our latest Toyota racecar that had them.
On inspection they were very fresh, so used them.
By rule, we gotta run totally stock ignition if we run fuel inj.
I've always had a spare set, ready to put in, but never used them.
4 seasons, read/inspected them lots, not a miss, not one single mis-fire, bounced off the 7k chip a bunch, - won 2 championships with them.
No complaints here .
 
Last edited:
inertia said:
I had no experience using platinums prior to purchasing our latest Toyota racecar that had them.
On inspection they were very fresh, so used them.
By rule, we gotta run totally stock ignition if we run fuel inj.
I've always had a spare set, ready to put in, but never used them.
4 seasons, read/inspected them lots, not a miss, not one single mis-fire, bounced off the 7k chip a bunch, - won 2 championships with them.
No complaints here .
Click to expand...
I didn't say there was anything wrong with um.
 
The benefits of Plat & other fine wire plugs is you can use bigger plug gaps.....& they last longer That is always a plus.
 
I was reading on line information from Holley about carb. set up, and they had a small note that since my car is an auto trans, they say to have it in drive to preload the engine when setting the air fuel mixture and idle speed. I think I will retry the carb adjustment that way to see if I can get it to idle better while in gear. It is aways 2 steps forward and 1 step back, I yesterday needed to adjust the exhaust system, was hanging to low, had rear of car up in the air on safety stands gas tank was about 3/4 full, started to smell gas checked out gas tank was leaking from the fuel sending unit lock nut now mine you I have has the tank in and filled many times and never had it leak. I opened the fuel cap to vent think it would stop the leak because of high pressure which did help, but it did not stop it completely, so pump out the gas to below the fuel sending unit to stop the leak, now I am ordering a new gasket and ring, the gasket and ring came with the new tank I installed from Quanta gas tank 4/27/2012 !.
 
The Holley should work fine, power valves and vacuum diaphragms for the vac secondary's are easily replaceable, only Issue I ever had was a Holley isnt good for MPG. Its a performance piece.
 
With a TQ, AVS or AFB you get performance AND economy....
17 hp more, 17 ft lbs more...& less fuel doing it 600 AFB v 600 holley

img248.jpg
 
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