throttle cable hookup question??

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Gib Warnick

'65 Valiant signet
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I am in the process of converting a 2 barrell '65 Signet 273 to a Commando look-a-like. Have installed a factory intake with a 600 Edelbrock carb- the 2 barrel bracket for the throttle cable doesn't work and neither does the kickdown rod hook up. I wonder if anyone has had to deal with this- and has a solution.
If anyone has the 4 barrell set up I would be happy to buy. Thanks in advance. Gib
 
I am in the process of converting a 2 barrell '65 Signet 273 to a Commando look-a-like. Have installed a factory intake with a 600 Edelbrock carb- the 2 barrel bracket for the throttle cable doesn't work and neither does the kickdown rod hook up. I wonder if anyone has had to deal with this- and has a solution.
If anyone has the 4 barrell set up I would be happy to buy. Thanks in advance. Gib

I did a search, and found this thread I have posted photos etc in.

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=82555
 
I'm not sure what year model got what changes but...
These are the reasons to seriously consider the Lokar cables.
The early models had the bellcrank for the kickdown mounted on the firewall instead of the engine. They didn't have the throttle return slot in the kickdown linkage either. A broken left motor support would allow the engine to raise up and in turn open the throttle. Result is a runaway car.
If the factory stuff wasn't safe, mix-N-matched or homemade linkage and cable wont be safe either.
 
I'm not sure what year model got what changes but...
These are the reasons to seriously consider the Lokar cables.
The early models had the bellcrank for the kickdown mounted on the firewall instead of the engine. They didn't have the throttle return slot in the kickdown linkage either. A broken left motor support would allow the engine to raise up and in turn open the throttle. Result is a runaway car.
If the factory stuff wasn't safe, mix-N-matched or homemade linkage and cable wont be safe either.

Thanks for insight- I'll check out Lokar- Hoping to find stock 4 barrell set up..... Anyone have????
 
I'm not sure what year model got what changes but...
These are the reasons to seriously consider the Lokar cables.
The early models had the bellcrank for the kickdown mounted on the firewall instead of the engine. They didn't have the throttle return slot in the kickdown linkage either. A broken left motor support would allow the engine to raise up and in turn open the throttle. Result is a runaway car.
If the factory stuff wasn't safe, mix-N-matched or homemade linkage and cable wont be safe either.

I took your advice- talked to the tech folks at Lokar and ordered set up. not cheap- $149 with shipping. I'll let everyone see how it turns out- thanks for your help. Gib
 
I'm not sure what year model got what changes but...
These are the reasons to seriously consider the Lokar cables.
The early models had the bellcrank for the kickdown mounted on the firewall instead of the engine. They didn't have the throttle return slot in the kickdown linkage either. A broken left motor support would allow the engine to raise up and in turn open the throttle. Result is a runaway car.
If the factory stuff wasn't safe, mix-N-matched or homemade linkage and cable wont be safe either.
Nonsense, the kickdown linkage upper bellcrank mounts to the back of the cylinder head....not the firewall. Maybe I'm lucky but even after breaking many LH motor mounts, I've never had a stuck throttle because of it. It's still a cable setup so the motor would have to move quite a ways to yank the throttle cable enough to effect the carb. It's not a f'ing Chebby!
Thanks, Mark
 
Gib - I have become convinced that the 4 bbl bracket and kickdown parts are made from unobtainium. Ive looked high and low, off and on for years.

I was in the same boat, and started the car running using the bouchillon kickdown set up on mine, and a later model 4bbl throttle bracket. The cable going to the trans around the doghouse gets extremely tight in there, and the keeper bracket for the cable on the trans itself was awful tight. I had to cut and reweld it to make it work, I also had to flip the ball over on the trans lever and weld that, my clearances were damned tight in there. After a little while I decided that was for the birds. It worked, but I did not think it was sustainable for the long haul.

If you have the complete oem 66 and older 2 bbl set up you can adapt and make it work.

Heres what I did - I made my own throttle bracket from heavy guage mild steel. All you need is a vice, a hammer, adjustable wrench, drills, some files, and a moderate dose of determination and about 2 hours. What you are going to do is make a mirror image of the 2 bbl bracket. It works fine on my 66 4 bbl oem manifold with a holley 600 and the mopar adapter for the carb. I cut the slot for the keeper - drilled a hole and pressed in the stud for the keeper as well. I'd be willing to bet mine looks darn close to an oe piece.

For the kickdown, all you need to do is lengthen the carb rod and put a mild offset Z in the middle somewhere so it then lines up with the carb button ball, and the bell crank. In my case I happened to have had an odd piece of kickdown from another mopar (I believe it was a mid rod from an older 3 piece kickdown set up) that had the right size threaded end on it for the carb button end link. I bent it slightly - and then cut it and resectioned it to the "right" length, and welded it together. It now links the carb to the 2 bbl bell crank perfectly.

I can post a pic Friday if you want a look see.
 
Gib - I have become convinced that the 4 bbl bracket and kickdown parts are made from unobtainium. Ive looked high and low, off and on for years.

I was in the same boat, and started the car running using the bouchillon kickdown set up on mine, and a later model 4bbl throttle bracket. The cable going to the trans around the doghouse gets extremely tight in there, and the keeper bracket for the cable on the trans itself was awful tight. I had to cut and reweld it to make it work, I also had to flip the ball over on the trans lever and weld that, my clearances were damned tight in there. After a little while I decided that was for the birds. It worked, but I did not think it was sustainable for the long haul.

If you have the complete oem 66 and older 2 bbl set up you can adapt and make it work.

Heres what I did - I made my own throttle bracket from heavy guage mild steel. All you need is a vice, a hammer, adjustable wrench, drills, some files, and a moderate dose of determination and about 2 hours. What you are going to do is make a mirror image of the 2 bbl bracket. It works fine on my 66 4 bbl oem manifold with a holley 600 and the mopar adapter for the carb. I cut the slot for the keeper - drilled a hole and pressed in the stud for the keeper as well. I'd be willing to bet mine looks darn close to an oe piece.

For the kickdown, all you need to do is lengthen the carb rod and put a mild offset Z in the middle somewhere so it then lines up with the carb button ball, and the bell crank. In my case I happened to have had an odd piece of kickdown from another mopar (I believe it was a mid rod from an older 3 piece kickdown set up) that had the right size threaded end on it for the carb button end link. I bent it slightly - and then cut it and resectioned it to the "right" length, and welded it together. It now links the carb to the 2 bbl bell crank perfectly.

I can post a pic Friday if you want a look see.



Thanks for sharing your experience- I finally broke down and ordered the set ups from LOkar that were recommended-the tech I talked to knew what he was talking about about my early set up and was very helpful.
Parts-
KD2904HT- kick down assembly
DP1000HT- Duo Pak throttle assembly

I ordered it from Summit - I'll post how it works out with pictures...
Thanks to all, Gib

Look what just areeived in a big brown box truck.....

Lokarthroittlekickdown.jpg
 
Nonsense, the kickdown linkage upper bellcrank mounts to the back of the cylinder head....not the firewall. Maybe I'm lucky but even after breaking many LH motor mounts, I've never had a stuck throttle because of it. It's still a cable setup so the motor would have to move quite a ways to yank the throttle cable enough to effect the carb. It's not a f'ing Chebby!
Thanks, Mark


I said I didn't know what year they changed. Its not they throtlle cable that revs the engine when that motor support breaks or a stick gets caught in the kickdown linkage under the car. Its the lack of the free return slot at the throttle end of the kickdown linkage that did it.
 
I am in the process of converting a 2 barrell '65 Signet 273 to a Commando look-a-like. Have installed a factory intake with a 600 Edelbrock carb- the 2 barrel bracket for the throttle cable doesn't work and neither does the kickdown rod hook up. I wonder if anyone has had to deal with this- and has a solution.
If anyone has the 4 barrell set up I would be happy to buy. Thanks in advance. Gib
...........................................................................................................
Here's a photo showing the difference in the factory 2bbl and 4bbl kickdown upper bellcrank assy. The 4bbl. one is at the top. The lower linkage will usually work either way with some minor adjusting/tweaking but the rod from the upper bellcrank to the carb is a different length.
Thanks, Mark

100_0478.jpg
 
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