Aaron.M
Well-Known Member
With a 489 cone style Sure Grip and Green bearings with Moser axles, do I need to remove the thrust block from the Sure Grip or is that just for the 741 and 742 cases? What is the meaning behind it?
Thrust Block with 489 Sure Grip
- Thread starter Aaron.M
- Start date
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If my memory is correct yes you have to remove the thrust block. The block pushes one axle towards the other axles so you can set your bearing end play with the stock style axle bearings.
Depends on what style axle bearings your running. Stock tapered bearings need the thrust block. Green bearings do not. If you dont have the thrust block with the tapered bearings, you wont be able to adjust the axle endplay.
So in your case you do not need the thrust block.
So in your case you do not need the thrust block.
Aaron.M
Well-Known Member
So with the Green bearings, the thrust block is optional? In other words, it's simply for end play adjustment and doesnt HAVE to be removed if Green bearings are being used?
I bought the axles and bearings used so I dont really know how it all goes together at the moment. Something I did notice is that the bearings dont roll so easy, is that normal for Green bearings? Are Green bearings sealed or do they need to be greased?
I bought the axles and bearings used so I dont really know how it all goes together at the moment. Something I did notice is that the bearings dont roll so easy, is that normal for Green bearings? Are Green bearings sealed or do they need to be greased?
Green bearings are sealed. The thrust block is a tapered-bearing necessity. It needs to be removed for green bearings.
If you run the green bearing the thrust block needs to be removed. The green bearing are sealed and have some friction when you turn them.
If you are running the green bearings you do not need the thrust block. However if you are using custom axles you can grind the end off of each one an equal amount to get the needed clearance to run the green bearings with the thrust plate.
This may only be a 16th or 32nd of an inch grinding on the end of the axle.
This is if you don't want to mess around with pulling the trust button of the Sure Grip.
This may only be a 16th or 32nd of an inch grinding on the end of the axle.
This is if you don't want to mess around with pulling the trust button of the Sure Grip.
I would ask Dr. Diff.
IIRC the thrust block "should" not interfere when using green bearings. Best thing to do is test fit everything. If both the axles go all the way in your good to go.
IIRC the thrust block "should" not interfere when using green bearings. Best thing to do is test fit everything. If both the axles go all the way in your good to go.
Aaron.M
Well-Known Member
I've heard it was only the 741 and 742 cases that need the thrust button removed. From what I understand, the 489 case has a thrust block (not a button) that doesnt have to be removed for Green bearings but I'll maybe try calling Dr. Diff.
AGAIN IIRC the guts of a 741 will fit directly into a 742 or 489 and visa versa.
Ring and pinion excluded from above. I think there are carrier bearing differences too but that is due to cone vs clutch vs open.
Ring and pinion excluded from above. I think there are carrier bearing differences too but that is due to cone vs clutch vs open.
I think it may depend upon if you use Mopar Performance or older Green Bearing (RP400) versus the newer style MO400.
I believe that the MO 400 uses snap rings which may give enough room so that you do not have to remove the block or button. The Rp400 the bearing was crimped onto the retainer moving the axle inward so the block or button had to be removed. Call Dr Diff he can verify what needs to be done.
I believe that the MO 400 uses snap rings which may give enough room so that you do not have to remove the block or button. The Rp400 the bearing was crimped onto the retainer moving the axle inward so the block or button had to be removed. Call Dr Diff he can verify what needs to be done.
Aaron.M
Well-Known Member
I think what I was referring to above was cone type and clutch type sure grip. Clutch type has a thrust button and cone type has a thrust block. I'm trying to find out if the cone type has to have the block removed or if it's just the clutch type button that has to be removed. Maybe I'll just have to get a long rod in there and measure how much room I have.
Aaron.M
Well-Known Member
Ahhh yes, this makes sense now.
Also look and see which style green bearings you have there are two different ones RP 400 ( crimped onto the bearings ) and MO 400. ( snap ring style ) I am almost positive since I went out and checked my 8 3/4 that you are good to go with the MO 400 style bearings. ( they move the axles out slightly where the RP 400 moved the axles in slightly. )
The thrust block and thrust button perform the same function. If one needs to be removed the other would need to be removed too.
Aaron.M
Well-Known Member
I have snap rings on one side of the bearing and a slot on the other side for what looks like an o-ring that did not come with the set, I'll have to find a couple of those I suppose
If you use the inner axle seal then you don't need the o ring.
Super-Cuda
MOPAR .. Move Over, Plymouth Approaching Rapidly!
Hi Aron Majcan,
Here's my setup . Original 8 3/4 housing, 741 center section . clutch style suregrip, 3.91 gearset Moser axles w / 4.5 0n 5 axles w/ screw in studs , 11x2.5 " drum brakes. Thrust block intact. no issues.
Donnie514
Well-Known Member
Aaron...…..REREAD POST #2, #3 #5 and #6 only.
Idk if this applies. I have used the green bearings with the snap rings 6 or 7 times on stock axles and never had to remove the thrust blocks. Kim
Aaron.M
Well-Known Member
I got the backing plates and Moser axles in this morning and they slid right up to the snap rings on both sides so it seems that, in this application anyway, the thrust block can remain on a cone style sure grip with the snap ring Green bearings.
Super-Cuda
MOPAR .. Move Over, Plymouth Approaching Rapidly!
Exactly my experience as well. Just curious. When you ordered your axles, did you give your supplier the specifications of your setup?
Aaron.M
Well-Known Member
Unfortunately I didnt buy them new. I bought my axles from a guy down the road that had them in his Duster.
You are a tad confused. It's not predicated on the housing, it's the suregrip unit itself.
Clutch type suregrip has the thrust buttons. The buttons are easily removed.
Cone type suregrip has a thrust block. In order to remove the thrust block the suregrip unit itself needs to be disassembled.
IF you have the newer Greens then I think the buttons/block can stay. If they are the older ones it needs to come out.
OR as mentioned if the splines on the axle ends are long enough you can just remove a little bit of the axle end.
Aaron.M
Well-Known Member
Yes thank you. I corrected myself on the matter above back in post #12.
On a related note though, it doesnt seem like there is a whole lot holding these Green bearings firm in their place. I feel like they'll want to spin inside the housing. What do you know about that?
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