Time to start over and punt on my block?

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DrEamer

DrEamer

I suffer from cars on the brain!
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Due to a series of mistakes on my part, I punched into the water jacket while trying to put a Big-Sert repair into a head bolt hole. I don't know if there is a repair that I trust, but maybe someone here knows of something. The sad thing is it is a fully machined Magnum block with my stroker kit in it. :BangHead: As I see it, if I start over with a core block, and have it matched to this one, and install my guts in, would be my safest/best option. Thoughts before I call the machinist tomorrow?
 
DrEamer said:
Due to a series of mistakes on my part, I punched into the water jacket while trying to put a Big-Sert repair into a head bolt hole. I don't know if there is a repair that I trust, but maybe someone here knows of something. The sad thing is it is a fully machined Magnum block with my stroker kit in it. :BangHead: As I see it, if I start over with a core block, and have it matched to this one, and install my guts in, would be my safest/best option. Thoughts before I call the machinist tomorrow?
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OUCH
 
could you tap the hole into the water jacket and install a plug then finish the insert repair?
 
As stated, there are other manufacturers that routinely have head bolts that enter the water jacket. Install the insert and use thread sealer on the bolt.
 
DrEamer said:
I punched into the water jacket while trying to put a Big-Sert repair into a head bolt hole.
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The' F you talkin' 'bout?? You punched through the bottom of the hole? Some 318s GO CLEAR THROUGH and I have a couple of blocks to prove that. There was ONE HELL of an argument about this years ago on this board, at least one member even accused me of lying, of posting altered photos, and other bullshit

Here is THE photo I posted of an old 318 LA with wet bolt holes. What you are looking at is a flashlight held down against a water passage, and reflected light coming back "up" through various other passages AND A HEAD BOLT HOLE

(On a side note, I just noticed it has flat top pistons)

mt1r93-jpg.jpg
 
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It's not that unusual for head bolt hole to enter water jackets. I know over the years I've removed a head bolt only to see water come out of the hole.Then I realize I forgot to drain the water.
 
67Dart273 said:
The' F you talkin' 'bout?? You punched through the bottom of the hole? Some 318s GO CLEAR THROUGH and I have a couple of blocks to prove that. There was ONE HELL of an argument about this years ago on this board, at least one member even accused me of lying, of posting altered photos, and other bullshit

Here is THE photo I posted of an old 318 LA with wet bolt holes. What you are looking at is a flashlight held down against a water passage, and reflected light coming back "up" through various other passages AND A HEAD BOLT HOLE

(On a side note, I just noticed it has flat top pistons)

View attachment 1715626991
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I remember that argument. It was epic.
 
This is what I have going on pictured below. I do remember small block Fords have the head bolts in the jackets as well.

20201108_181320 (2).jpg
 
Heck- stud it with a 2 part epoxy if you are really that worried. That’s nothing honestly.
 
I agree with none of the above.

Block is clearly junk. PM me to arrange shipping and I'll take it off your hands. I'm making a coffee table out of them.
 
Green Loctite High temp thread sealer on the thread insert for safety if you are worried. Then just assemble as normal. The coolant won't ever make it past the gasket anyway.

I would be more worried about the cylinder bulging. A quick power hone on that cylinder should be considered using a torque plate. Not necessary unless you are worried about ring seal on that cylinder. You would not believe how bad cylinders distort when honed without a torque plate then checking them with one bolted and torqued in place.

Small block Chevy's you can see every bolt hole in the bore after running the motor when bored and honed without a torque plate. Its only one bolt you may get lucky. So you have to ask yourself. Do you feel lucky?
 
Oldmanmopar said:
Green Loctite High temp thread sealer on the thread insert for safety if you are worried. Then just assemble as normal. The coolant won't ever make it past the gasket anyway.

I would be more worried about the cylinder bulging. A quick power hone on that cylinder should be considered using a torque plate. Not necessary unless you are worried about ring seal on that cylinder. You would not believe how bad cylinders distort when honed without a torque plate then checking them with one bolted and torqued in place.

Small block Chevy's you can see every bolt hole in the bore after running the motor when bored and honed without a torque plate. Its only one bolt you may get lucky. So you have to ask yourself. Do you feel lucky?
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I feel lucky.
 
Oldmanmopar said:
I would be more worried about the cylinder bulging. A quick power hone on that cylinder should be considered using a torque plate. Not necessary unless you are worried about ring seal on that cylinder. You would not believe how bad cylinders distort when honed without a torque plate then checking them with one bolted and torqued in place.

Small block Chevy's you can see every bolt hole in the bore after running the motor when bored and honed without a torque plate. Its only one bolt you may get lucky. So you have to ask yourself. Do you feel lucky?
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The short block is already assembled, but was bored, and honed with plates. Is the wall going to be affected after putting in the insert? I'm not trying to ask a stupid question here, just trying to learn.
 
DrEamer said:
The short block is already assembled, but was bored, and honed with plates. Is the wall going to be affected after putting in the insert? I'm not trying to ask a stupid question here, just trying to learn.
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myself , I doubt it .
 
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