Timing, carb, and cooling trouble

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wheelz 63 dart gt

wheelz 63 dart gt

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So I finally got the dart running. My Carb spits fuel up at me with the air cleaner off., I can not seem to get her below 10 degrees tdc.I cant turn the dizzy any farther. The mark on my balancer may not be right,or i am a tooth off when i set the dizzy in. When I put the light on her she seems the smoothest around 15 advanced. And that is not smooth at all. She will not idle on her own any where. My Carter I just rebuilt, and it spits fuel out sometimes when i rev her up.. I just put in a thermostat, spring to head the other day ,and it opened at 180 degrees like it should. She didnt over heat but got above the half way on the gauge. Ive never driven my 63 gt. She did not run when I bought her, so i do not know what normal is for her. Also the rear tires turn while shes in neutral. Any ideas why? Thanks .
 

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I had alot of type-o's. Sorry about that. No wonder no one responded.LOL. The rear tire spin in neutral.
 
Check the advance mechanism inside the distributor and make sure it moves freely.
 
The tires spinning in neutral while on jackstands is normal. Check the temp with another type of gauge. Mine looked high on the stock gauge, but when I hooked up an autometer it was 170*
 
is my timing tab in the correct spot. I just cant get her to stay running. Ill try to look in my carb to see if everythimg is good in there. I just took the carb off the car. Also, what will cause my key not to start the car. I have to override the starter.
 
To find out if your distributor is in correct.
Put the motor on TDC.
Get an old Dist Cap.
Cut all the towers off the cap.
There should now be holes so you can see the rotor with the cap on.
With the motor at TDC,and the Dist installed, the rotor should face the #1 plug wire.
Now you know your Dist is installed correct.

On the bottom of your Dist there is also an adjuster screw/plate so you can get more timming or less. Trial an error will give you the best position for it.
I would get the timming down to around 5 btdc.

Carb sounds like your floats/float is to high, or a needle and seat issue. Some times dirt gets caught between the needle and seat.
 
I just rebuilt the carb again and found out i forgot one of those tiny steel float balls, and my float was way off. Popped the dizzy cap and my rotor was bent too. I just got her fired up and shes running fairly good for the first time in 10 years! I am stoked.
 
If the driveshaft turns while the car is running, tire off the ground, in neutral,l and doesn't when it's in Park, that is normal. Sounds like you have the carb figured out. I'd run as much initial advance as I could without it pinging.....up to 12 degrees BTDC. As for the starting, neutral safety switch or starter relay would be most likely. The ignition switch or wiring/connectors are also a possibility.
 
It's actually a pawl, but that's unlikely to be the problem. Most common on your car is a bad park cable or something wrong with the shifter box. When you slide the park lever down, the cable should move and engage the parking pawl inside the extension housing. You can't see it work from the outside without taking the access cover off but you can look under the dash and see if the cable is moving on that end. If that's not the problem, remove the cable from the transmission end and pull the little cover off. You should be able to manually move the linkage for the parking pawl and engage it. The driveshaft will lock in place when the pawl is engaged. On the odd chance that the pawl or related part(s) are broken, you'd have to pull the extension housing off to replace them.
 
cudamark said:
It's actually a pawl, but that's unlikely to be the problem. Most common on your car is a bad park cable or something wrong with the shifter box. When you slide the park lever down, the cable should move and engage the parking pawl inside the extension housing. You can't see it work from the outside without taking the access cover off but you can look under the dash and see if the cable is moving on that end. If that's not the problem, remove the cable from the transmission end and pull the little cover off. You should be able to manually move the linkage for the parking pawl and engage it. The driveshaft will lock in place when the pawl is engaged. On the odd chance that the pawl or related part(s) are broken, you'd have to pull the extension housing off to replace them.
Click to expand...

ok i should have mentioned an adjustment issue but if the cables are working correctly there isn't anything else i can think of that would allow the trans to spin and move while in park lol...

but 2x on the rest...
 
ok, i need a new parking cable . Mine is broken in two. I have not yet driven this car. Will I need to fix it before I can test drive her. im still waiting to find a new front windshield too.
 
Parking pawls alomes never break. I did break one,but only after my tow truck rear ended my car while it was in park.Sheared it in 1/2. The parking brake on the tow truck let loose.
 
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