Timing for a 318

[tomcopbar]

Completly stock everthing. But I think the timing is going, it sometimes backfires through the intake when I am accelerating slowly and hesitates when changing rpms from low to high. The engine has quit on me a couple times. So I need help on how to time it and to what specs. I am not familiar with this system.

I think it is to advanced, or is advancing to fast. While I am at it I may change to electronic.

 

[MopaR&D]

Nope, it's too retarded. My 318 Duster ran like crap when I first got it (backfiring, stumbling, stalling, etc.) until I bumped the initial timing up. Started out at 10* ATDC, I put it all the way to 12* BTDC and now it runs great. But, sometimes it still hesitates a little off idle, I think it's the carb. BTW if it was too advanced it would be detonating/pinging/knocking, not backfiring (unless it was at like 60* initial advance).

 

[BblockAbody]

I Just got finished increasing the timing on my 318 to 10* BTDC and for a mid 70's auto trans 318 stock initial timing is TDC with a 2* variable.

 

[grumpuscreature]

Every 318 I've ever had liked 7 degrees BTDC with the vacuum line to the distributor disconnected and plugged. Didn't matter if it was points or electronic. While you are setting your timing look real close at the timing marks. If they seem to be moving any at all you will probably need a timing chain. This fits the symptoms you are describing better than the initial timing being off. If there is 60,000 or more miles on the odometer, the chain is more than likely the cause of your problems.

 

[camd64]

i have run a few 318's and the stock ones like to run 6-8 btdc while a more performance one will usualy like 8-10. like grumpus says check the chain though its quick and easy. another thing that can throw you off is if the balancer has slipped. 30+ years and that rubber ring is more like a hockey puck than anything else.

 

[Burntorange70]

I think it is to advanced, or is advancing to fast. While I am at it I may change to electronic.[/quote]

I would change it over to the electronic. Points need a lot of up keep to work right. then I would just mess with the timeing untill you like it.

 

[krazykuda]

Get an advance timing light from Sears and map it out from idle to 3000. Then run it over 2000 and set total advance to 34 - 36° advance at 2500 - 3000 rpm with the vacuum advance connected if you are using it. Set it the same 34 - 36 total if you are not using vacuum advance, you will just have more initial timing at idle. Try with the vacuum advance connected and disconnected to see how it runs best.

Also, check the mechanical advance springs in the distributor. I told my dad his Superbird had too much advance after he had it tuned up, but he told me not to touch it. He replaced the distrubutor with a Mallory mechanical one after a while. A couple years later when I was taking apart distributors and putting them back together to learn and practice fixing them, I found that one of his springs had broken on the mechanical advance causing it to get too much advance too soon.

You don't have to take it apart to check it. Just take it out, remove the cap and rotate the shaft looking past the vacuum advance plates to check if they are still good. Then put it back in and set your timing which you have to check anyhow.

 

[krazykuda]

Oh yeah, Also check to make sure that your vacuum advance for the distributor is connected properly. It should be connected to PORTED VACUUM, not MANIFOLD VACUUM. There is a difference and many people don't know and connect it improperly. The vacuum hose from the distributor vacuum can should be connected to an upper vacuum port on the carburetor, not the lower ports coming out of the carburetor base or a vacuum tee fitting on the intake manifold.

Ported vacuum has no vacuum at idle and then gets some after the throttle is opened. If you are not sure put a vacuum gage on the port and make sure there is no vacuum at idle and then some when you increase engine speed. If you connect it to manifold vacuum, you will have all of your vacuum advance coming in at idle, not under load like it is supposed to. On a Holley the ported vacuum is the one coming off of the metering block for the primary side of the carburetor. On Carter/Edelbrock it is one coming off of the main body of the carburetor, not the base and is higher than the base plate for the carburetor.

 

[C130 Chief]

Wait, back up, you say you aren't too familiar with the system? Well, answer a few questions and we can help you become more familiar without just firing off a few numbers and telling you to replace the timing chain.

1. Does your engine have points or electronic ignition? Points as they wear will cause the timing to change slightly. Electronic ignition really stays the same until somebody monkeys with it. If your points are shot, you will have running problems, and eventually you will not start at all.

2. When was the last time your plugs, wires and cap were replaced? If you need a full tune up, twisting the distributor around won't help anything.

3. Do you have a timing light? They are inexpensive any you really can't do much without one.

4. Do you have some sort of service manual? Don't even think about doing anything without one.

Lets start by walking you through a complete tune-up first. Then if you are still having issues we can help you diagnose further.

 

[camd64]

before you buy anything check the condition of parts first. pull the plugs and check for oil fouling, broken insulators etc. also look at the wires for cracks or if they are even in the correct order. if you have a timing light as stated earlier you can CHECK the timing chain by looking at the timing mark and if it isnt fairly stable it is most likely bad. if you dont have a timing light you can see if your even close by "static timing". pull number 1 plug and rotate the motor till you feel compression then line up the timing mark to about 6 btdc. now mark the dist. at the #1 tower. and pull the cap and if the rotor isnt pointing at the spot or very close to it then its off. ditch the points.

 

[tomcopbar]

Thanks for all the help, I checked the timing before I did anything, found it was TDC as OE says it should be... Changed the points to electronic and touched nothing else, checked timing and it was running at 8*, I think BTDC, but not sure, anyways it solved the problem, car runs perfect now. It can actually pull off a brake stand and not just put a load on the torque converter.