What is everyone running for timing chain sets in he LAs and magnums? Quality is more important than price to me.
timing set recommendations
- Thread starter mgoblue9798
- Start date
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Cloyes billet true roller
Billet all the way, just like @Oldmanmopar said. My rule of thumb is, if you don't spend "around" or over 100 bucks on a timing set, either it's not high quality, or you got a rip snortin deal on it.
Plymouth 65
I'll be in the shop
I like the Edelbrock timing gear/chain. 65'
Rollmaster or Comp. Thr R/M is a Iwis chain & the Comp is Rolon.
QuickDart360
Well-Known Member
I've had good luck with Cloyes True roller timing sets. Chain is made by reynold. Which I think is a French company?
The JP/Rollmaster is a NICE set. That's what I have on my slant 6. I recommend two things. Measure the crank snout and the ID of the crank gear. If it's more than a .002" press fit, hone the gear a little bigger. ALSO, I found one that was mis marked. It's VERY easy to remark it correctly. Just find true TDC and make a new mark. Other than that, those sets are top shelf quality. They have probably addressed the mismarked issue I feel sure.
I've run the Edelbrock true roller double roller timing chain sets on all of my engines for decades... It's a step over the stock 340 timing chain... I refreshed an engine that I put one on that had 125,000 miles on a daily driver and the chain was barely stretched... I replaced it anyway because I only paid $50 for a new one back in those days and decided since I already had the new one to just throw it on... The old one still had many more miles left to go...
Edelbrock Performer-Link True Roller Timing Chain Set
MOPAROFFICIAL
Oogliboogli
Mancini billet set
Jp is nice but when you degree it..
Anyone else check tension after a season with one? Mine was loose.
Jp is nice but when you degree it..
Anyone else check tension after a season with one? Mine was loose.
Wonder if a Dakota 3.6 timing tensioner would help out. I put one on the engine I put together but haven't run it yet.
All it helps is keeping the chain from flopping around. If the chain stretches, the timing will still change even with a tensioner on it. I still like the tensioners though, I think they're a good idea AS LONG AS the chain that's used with them does not have the "dog bone" style links. Those type chains will dig into the tensioner shoes and cut grooves on them. The straight style links will not.
Should do, I'm setting up a MP tensioner on my 318 as well. I added a fourth bolt hole in the cam retaining plate and drilled some big holes to expose the lifter gallery plugs, then i drilled a 0.025" hole in each gallery plug to oil the chain & fuel pump eccentric.
The JP & Rollmaster are good timing sets, Rollmaster do them with Nitrited gears as well and can be ordered undersized if you need.
Scody21
Just send it
Pro gear from Hughes. Cloyes suck. Changed out the Cloyes in my 340 that had 20 hours and the thing had a ton of stretch…
QuickDart360
Well-Known Member
Cloyes sux. If you say so. Work pretty well for me. There's different levels of cloyes. I used the more expensive true roller race set.
Cloyes. 6 Years of extreme duty with proper oiling and we are reusing it. Roll master is another decent chain. We just like Cloyes. Also tensioners are not for use with roller chains. Smooth sided Silent chains only, A good tight true roller chain tears them up.
If the chain stretches that much that you need a tensioner think how much the cam timing had to move on the pull side of the chain.
Mopar made them to quiet the scrap chains used on the V6's. Tensioners were cheaper then replacing all the chains they bought for the noisy junk.
Then after builders found they fit the V8's . It was an idea to use them to take up slack with the low budget builds. But again what about the change in cam timing as it stretches. But If you are a Democratic scientist you could calculate that in to the equation. Follow the science.
The second last picture was on a "Shady Dell" build. Note the precision grooves ground with a grinder into the plate for oiling LOL . We tossed it in the scrap metal bin. We will never use a tensioner on any builds. Just more parts to break and go wrong. If any of those parts get caught in the chain just thing of the carnage when the valves hit the pistons. last picture
If the chain stretches that much that you need a tensioner think how much the cam timing had to move on the pull side of the chain.
Mopar made them to quiet the scrap chains used on the V6's. Tensioners were cheaper then replacing all the chains they bought for the noisy junk.
Then after builders found they fit the V8's . It was an idea to use them to take up slack with the low budget builds. But again what about the change in cam timing as it stretches. But If you are a Democratic scientist you could calculate that in to the equation. Follow the science.
The second last picture was on a "Shady Dell" build. Note the precision grooves ground with a grinder into the plate for oiling LOL . We tossed it in the scrap metal bin. We will never use a tensioner on any builds. Just more parts to break and go wrong. If any of those parts get caught in the chain just thing of the carnage when the valves hit the pistons. last picture
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