Unfortunately other than something like Trick flow heads or some power adder, most gains are gonna be small, like a bigger carb , 1-3/4 headers, going 2.02 etc.. might get ya 0-20hp each but cost adds up quick and no guarantee each mod will add.
Tips for HP gain?
- Thread starter Hansen
- Start date
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I understand, I'm just stating by experience what I would run on it.
Pay attention to 318WILLRUN to start with and the issue of traction should be self with first and foremost.
For the carb, a 750 double pump
On the cylinder head issue, you want flow over compression every time. The cylinder head I would choose if I was you would be the trick flows. IF you have room to lift the valve higher, go with the 1.6 rockers. This depends onthe pistonandwhgere it sits as well as if you degreeded the cam in and allows room for more lift.
@Hansen, answer the questions next to your words.
Engine: 1974 360 .30 over
What pistons and how far down in the country kinder area they?
Headers: dougs D453 1-5/8 Inch
What did you do for an exhaust system @ at what size pipe?
Cooling: stock waterpump, 1117 flex a lite 6 blade ''race'' fan.
The MP 5 blade fan is better.
ignition: Stock electric ignition all around w/orange box.
Upgrade the orange box to a Chrome box, FBO box or a MSD
Timing: 35 at 3500 rpm.
Has this produced the best ET so far?
Unrelated to the engine hp:
3:23 gears in a 8 3/4 sure grip, 727 manual shift, 3000 stall.
What size tire?
How heavy is the car?
.[/QUOTE]
For the carb, a 750 double pump
On the cylinder head issue, you want flow over compression every time. The cylinder head I would choose if I was you would be the trick flows. IF you have room to lift the valve higher, go with the 1.6 rockers. This depends onthe pistonandwhgere it sits as well as if you degreeded the cam in and allows room for more lift.
@Hansen, answer the questions next to your words.
Engine: 1974 360 .30 over
What pistons and how far down in the country kinder area they?
Headers: dougs D453 1-5/8 Inch
What did you do for an exhaust system @ at what size pipe?
Cooling: stock waterpump, 1117 flex a lite 6 blade ''race'' fan.
The MP 5 blade fan is better.
ignition: Stock electric ignition all around w/orange box.
Upgrade the orange box to a Chrome box, FBO box or a MSD
Timing: 35 at 3500 rpm.
Has this produced the best ET so far?
Unrelated to the engine hp:
3:23 gears in a 8 3/4 sure grip, 727 manual shift, 3000 stall.
What size tire?
How heavy is the car?
.[/QUOTE]
AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
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I also have a 230/237 cam but 11/1 Scr (alloy heads) and 3.55s.My 367 went 93 in the 660, at 3457 pounds and 900ft elevation, Normally Aspirated,lol..
I also have problem with traction, but apparently your problem is worse,lol. My 60ft was 2.4 and change.
Supercharging will help the most, lol.
What is your track elevation?
What is your cylinder pressure?
what is the idle timing? If it's not in the 18* range, it's pulling off a dirty idle set up is my guess.
That's the first thing I would do, get the base idle tune squared away, then work up from there.
That's the first thing I would do, get the base idle tune squared away, then work up from there.
Put nitrous on it.
Is it challenging getting American engine parts in Norway?
about 3000 feet track, cylinder pressure not sure but it was consistent all around i remember
it's expensive, anything i order is shipping+total amount then you need to add 25% for tax. So ignition kit costs 150+ 70 for shipping then 55 for taxes. that makes it 275 dollar. And this is on ebay with their global shipping program. If i order anything from summit or jegs directly it'll cost even more for their shipping.
Holy CRAP!!!!
furrystump
Well-Known Member
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- Nov 13, 2004
- Messages
- 2,100
- Reaction score
- 1,697
I would not relocate the springs. I would spend that money on something else, maybe a converter. Not an off the shelf one. You can fit a 8-9” tire on these cars without changing anything. A 8” M&H muscle car DOT race tire is enough tire for what you are doing. I run 7.50 in the 1/8 at 91-92 mph on a 6” repo redline tire with NOTHING special in the rear suspension.
You need to stop the spinning tire first. Which you can probably do for free.
Technique, no long burnouts. Just clean the tire and you are done! Big burnouts put more rubber on the track, but do you no good. Tire pressure, go some place safe and spin the tire, look at the black marks. You want a good ever colored mark across the entire width. If it’s light in the middle go up 2 lbs or air pressure. Light on the edges, go down 2 lbs. repeat until you get ever color. The pressure will get higher as the tire heats up. So let it cool between tests. Launch rpm, are you launching at idle? If so the converter might be flashing too high. Trying loading the convertor so the engine doesn’t have a “running start” at the converter. I launch at about 3000 rpm If I go lower it knocks the tire off. My converter stalls at 3400-3500 rpm. Don’t remember what it flashes to. Also pay attention to the “minefield” of water around the water box. Look to see if there is standing water in front of the water box. There usually is because all the burnouts create grooves in the surface where water collects. Line up offset from the grooves. If you can, drive around the box and back in to just wet the tire. Roll all the way out of the water box. Quick spin first hint of tire smoke and you’re done. One of the most useful things to do is have a friend use a smart phone to slow-mo video the cars launch. You will see things you would never see with the naked eye. If I can figure out how to post a video, i have a slow-mo of a 1.73 60’ from last weekend.
You need to stop the spinning tire first. Which you can probably do for free.
Technique, no long burnouts. Just clean the tire and you are done! Big burnouts put more rubber on the track, but do you no good. Tire pressure, go some place safe and spin the tire, look at the black marks. You want a good ever colored mark across the entire width. If it’s light in the middle go up 2 lbs or air pressure. Light on the edges, go down 2 lbs. repeat until you get ever color. The pressure will get higher as the tire heats up. So let it cool between tests. Launch rpm, are you launching at idle? If so the converter might be flashing too high. Trying loading the convertor so the engine doesn’t have a “running start” at the converter. I launch at about 3000 rpm If I go lower it knocks the tire off. My converter stalls at 3400-3500 rpm. Don’t remember what it flashes to. Also pay attention to the “minefield” of water around the water box. Look to see if there is standing water in front of the water box. There usually is because all the burnouts create grooves in the surface where water collects. Line up offset from the grooves. If you can, drive around the box and back in to just wet the tire. Roll all the way out of the water box. Quick spin first hint of tire smoke and you’re done. One of the most useful things to do is have a friend use a smart phone to slow-mo video the cars launch. You will see things you would never see with the naked eye. If I can figure out how to post a video, i have a slow-mo of a 1.73 60’ from last weekend.
harrisonm
Well-Known Member
Better heads (or at least 2.02 intake valves), better carb and better gears (3.55 would make a noticeable difference)..
My 2 cents. That should make REALLY close to 350hp. It should be running about 85MPH in the 1/8. Had a Demon that ran 106-107 first time out with the same basic engine in Vegas with 4000DA. Our car had a XE268H (one step smaller), 750DP, 2500 converter and 2.76 gears.
Traction is a more about ET, MPH is about power to the ground and you aren't making it right now.
Traction is a more about ET, MPH is about power to the ground and you aren't making it right now.
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