to tow or not to tow a 727

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What does your rebuilder say?
You could disconnect the DS and secure it away from the u-joint saddle, up and forward so it can't fall out of the trans. Don't forget to block the wheels as "park" will not be.

FWIW, I've seen a lot of rwd cars towed. I don't think I've ever seen the hook guy disconnect the drive shaft.
 
Do it the safe way and disconnect the driveline.

The problem comes from towing an excessive amount of miles with no lubrication to the output shaft bushed components.
A few (10 or so miles) won't hurt it, but I wouldn't try more than about that without disconnecting the driveline on any RWD.

Now on a new rebuilt, I wouldn't risk it at all.
It's only four little bolts and a section of coat hangar wire.
 
Dont do it. There will be lots of stuff in there rubbing together with no lube oil getting to it. Would you crank your new engine with no oil in it? Up through 65 model years had a rear pump in there and you could tow it or even pull start it, those are the ones with the two cables instead of the one lever for shifting.
 
ernie flores said:
I'm putting like a 80's model tranny in a 1968 fastback with a stock 340 everything fit O.K.
Click to expand...

Yup. Pull the shaft. I thought I knew where to find this. Reason I asked is because the older boxes had a rear pump
 
If you tow it from the front in neutral you can go a couple miles slow. I was a tow truck driver for a long time. Without the pump moving fluid it will burn it up. Drop the shaft to be on the safe side.
 
thanks for the advice I ended starting up the engine then drove it to the Muffler shop sounds prettiiiy flow masters. I rebuilt it myself haven't rebuilt In a while but anybody have a filler tube and dipstick for this tranny I couldn't find a good straight one and this one leaks or it wouldn't bolt up to the 340.
 
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