Today, dollar for dollar, is the 318 faster than the 340 ???

[mygasser]

Starting from scratch with nothing, the only difference is a $400 (or less) 340 block. So now the 340 is at $1600 and the 318 is at $2000. If the money is moved to $2500 instead your window just closed. Doesn’t matter if you have a complete 318 because you can use the giveaway 318 crank/rods in the 340 and get the junk pistons. Now the playing field is level, use same heads-intake-cam-carb, ($2500 vs $2100) will $400 make up that 23 cubes? Personally I wouldn’t waste my money on either, that $2500 would go into a 360, cheap to find and much less than a stroker crank for the 318. My 5.9 has all the good stuff and I’ve got maybe $600 in it and will be above 450 hp.

the budget was $3000 from the get go and where on earth do you get $400 340 blocks (with caps) from?????

 

[318willrun]

Starting from scratch with nothing, the only difference is a $400 (or less) 340 block. So now the 340 is at $1600 and the 318 is at $2000. If the money is moved to $2500 instead your window just closed. Doesn’t matter if you have a complete 318 because you can use the giveaway 318 crank/rods in the 340 and get the junk pistons. Now the playing field is level, use same heads-intake-cam-carb, ($2500 vs $2100) will $400 make up that 23 cubes? Personally I wouldn’t waste my money on either, that $2500 would go into a 360, cheap to find and much less than a stroker crank for the 318. My 5.9 has all the good stuff and I’ve got maybe $600 in it and will be above 450 hp.

Cheapest "good core - complete minus intake & carb" 340 I could find was 1500 bucks and I would have had to drive over 2 hrs to get it. Say a guy talked him down 200, after gas and burger/fries you are still at 1400 plus time. About 2 years ago I got a complete carb to pan good running LA318 for 125.00. I see at least 1200 more to spend on a 318 than the 340 in a 3k budget. I just think 22 cubes wouldn't make up the difference in for the extra 1200 I'd have to spend. And I think 1200 is conservative.... Again, fair market value.

 

[Ceedawg]

the budget was $3000 from the get go and where on earth do you get $400 340 blocks (with caps) from?????

What part of the country are you in? Saw two last week on Facebook cheap. Another yes for the 360 engine then. $3000? then no way the 318 gets ahead. Nobody buys new stuff, we scrounge around for the deals, 3 grand is a fortune for small block stuff!

 

[Sublime one]

There is a 318 block on FB marketplace right now for 175.00. I did not see where it was located as I was looking for 440 blocks. Hehehehe

 

[Dave_J]

One more thing about 5.2 and 5.9 Mag's....
All Magnum block oil feeds are:
1/2 inch to the filter and to the right lifter gallery feed, and 5/16" main bearing feed, and have 6 holes in the filter plate..

Free HP because of less restriction out of the oil pump.....

 

[318willrun]

One more thing about 5.2 and 5.9 Mag's....
All Magnum block oil feeds are:
1/2 inch to the filter and to the right lifter gallery feed, and 5/16" main bearing feed, and have 6 holes in the filter plate..

Free HP because of less restriction out of the oil pump.....

Magnums are an excellent choice. For the extreme low dollar guy to the 10k budget guy. They are cheap, easy to find, and either the 5.2 or the 5.9 is an excellent choice. Just put a 4bbl on top the 5.2 mag and you are so close to a stock '73 340 in performance you may not know the difference by seat of the pants.

 

[448Scamp]

"Other" ring finishes? Like what for example? I'm ready to learn sumfin. lol

Go look at what Total Seal offers. There are so many other options today it’s silly to use a moly ring. It’s not durable and even less durable when ring thickness goes under .062 like it should. Thick rings with a moly fill are obsolete.

 

[Dave_J]

Word of warning, Don't use the Mag oil filter plate on a LA or the other way around. The IRON boss on the Mag Block is taller and the LA plate will not seal around the outter gasket. Same on the Mag plate on the LA block, it will not seal in the center.

EDIT, I may have these reversed. I can not measure right now.

 

[448Scamp]

But when newbies come to this site with their 318 car and limited budget, and some tell them to "get a 340"... they have to buy one....

And your premise is really flawed because why would ANYONE use the 340 when the '69 440 6 pack is right behind the 340 in the same guy's garage.. !!

Why not help the newbies and tell them to find more money instead of throwing garbage together. I don’t care who you are, you can’t build anything decent with 3k. Not even close. As I said early on, this argument is to fluff your ego. The real world doesn’t operate on financial skimping that ends up with something that is just a cleaned up worn out engine. I see you are quite happy the poll is rolling your way, and I call that a sad testimonial to the state of the hobby right now. Cheap is cheap and cheap is almost never good.

 

[RustyRatRod]

Go look at what Total Seal offers. There are so many other options today it’s silly to use a moly ring. It’s not durable and even less durable when ring thickness goes under .062 like it should. Thick rings with a moly fill are obsolete.

I see plasma moly, moly, chrome, gas nitride and ductile iron. At least in my bore size. Total Seal doesn't offer anything.

 

[448Scamp]

I see plasma moly, moly, chrome, gas nitride and ductile iron. At least in my bore size. Total Seal doesn't offer anything.

They have a complete line of tool steel, stainless steel and other ring materials available with a wide variety of coatings on them. They have rings in virtually any size you can imagine. I forgot how clunky and junky their website is. I can’t find the ring set I run on that thing either, and I don’t run a ductile iron moly top ring. I believe I have an AP stainless top ring and I can’t think of the coating on it, with a Napier second and a standard oil ring because of the HV pump. So you may have to call them to get the options. Or email Lake Speed. That’s what I did. I forgot to mention if you tell them your machine shop is measuring surface finish with a profilometer I’d bet 5 bucks they won’t sell you a moly ring.

 

[jammied]

Starting from scratch with nothing, the only difference is a $400 (or less) 340 block. So now the 340 is at $1600 and the 318 is at $2000. If the money is moved to $2500 instead your window just closed. Doesn’t matter if you have a complete 318 because you can use the giveaway 318 crank/rods in the 340 and get the junk pistons. Now the playing field is level, use same heads-intake-cam-carb, ($2500 vs $2100) will $400 make up that 23 cubes? Personally I wouldn’t waste my money on either, that $2500 would go into a 360, cheap to find and much less than a stroker crank for the 318. My 5.9 has all the good stuff and I’ve got maybe $600 in it and will be above 450 hp.

I'll take one of those $400 340blocks myself as long as it has the main caps! Personally I like 340's and if the price wasn't outrageous I would build one. As stated we have a 69 340 sitting here complete and running but IMHO it's better for a resto project. A good no core shift 318 block will make more power than a bad 340 block that's just the way the geometry and efficiency works out. The magnum engines changed the playing field. I don't see a $3000 340 out performing a $3000 5.2 magnum. No doubt the 340 is a good engine. Unless you already have really good heads add $2000 for some la heads either aftermarket or stock. So $2000 for heads plus the $400 block. That leaves $600 for gaskets, pistons and machine work ect.

Heck I would pick a 5.2 magnum over a la 360.

 

[fishmens67]

Why not help the newbies and tell them to find more money instead of throwing garbage together. I don’t care who you are, you can’t build anything decent with 3k. Not even close. As I said early on, this argument is to fluff your ego. The real world doesn’t operate on financial skimping that ends up with something that is just a cleaned up worn out engine. I see you are quite happy the poll is rolling your way, and I call that a sad testimonial to the state of the hobby right now. Cheap is cheap and cheap is almost never good.

There's a guy on here building 408 short blocks for $ 2900.00.

 

[448Scamp]

I'll take one of those $400 340blocks myself as long as it has the main caps! Personally I like 340's and if the price wasn't outrageous I would build one. As stated we have a 69 340 sitting here complete and running but IMHO it's better for a resto project. A good no core shift 318 block will make more power than a bad 340 block that's just the way the geometry and efficiency works out. The magnum engines changed the playing field. I don't see a $3000 340 out performing a $3000 5.2 magnum. No doubt the 340 is a good engine. Unless you already have really good heads add $2000 for some la heads either aftermarket or stock. So $2000 for heads plus the $400 block. That leaves $600 for gaskets, pistons and machine work ect.

Heck I would pick a 5.2 magnum over a la 360.

What if the 340 block is 1k? Wouldnt you snatch that up and save up another 500 bucks or even 750 to get the 340?? I would. I’d rather save and have something worth having that building stuff like I have to live hand to mouth.

 

[fishmens67]

What if the 340 block is 1k? Wouldnt you snatch that up and save up another 500 bucks or even 750 to get the 340?? I would. I’d rather save and have something worth having that building stuff like I have to live hand to mouth.

I wouldn't spend 1000 bucks on a 340 block, they're not worth it.

 

[448Scamp]

I wouldn't spend 1000 bucks on a 340 block, they're not worth it.

I would if it was in decent shape.

 

[Jadaharabi]

From Grant rings in California.


Materials And Coatings

Grant uses the latest materials and coatings available to keep pace with the growing trends in engine technology. We offer a variety of materials and coatings for piston rings ranging in diameter from 40mm to 340mm, in a wide variety of profiles and joint types.

We also offer different versions of piston rings sets to give you a choice of performance and price level. Whatever Grant ring set you choose, you can be assured that quality is built in.



The Ideal Ring Set For The Job

• High-Strength Ductile Iron Material For Extended Life
• Steel Material For Maximum Durability Under Extreme Load Conditions
• Phosphate Coated (Plain) Gray Cast Iron Rings For Economy Re-Ring Jobs.
• Chrome Coated Rings For Maximum Resistance To Wear And Scuffing
• Plasma-Moly Coated Rings For Improved Lubrication And Seating

Plain Cast Iron Piston Ring Sets:

These ring sets contain compression rings which are manufactured to precision specifications from high grade grey iron castings The top compression rings are black phosphate coated and normally beveled on the inside top, which gives a torsional twist characteristic or relieved on the lower ridge for oil scraping characteristics. The second compression ring is normally a scraper ring commonly used in the second groove. Oil rings are generally 3-piece circumferential style, which provide quick seating, positive oil control and long life.

Plain ring sets are identified with no prefix or a “P” prefix, example: 2271.020 or P2271.020



Chrome Cast Iron Piston Ring Sets:

These ring sets have a top compression ring that is chrome plated for resistance to wear and scuffing. High strength iron is used where applicable. Intermediate rings are of Torsional twist design. Oil rings are of either circumferential design or Grant’s patented channel oil ring, both of which provide quick seating, positive oil control and long life.

Chrome ring sets are identified with a “C” prefix, example: C2271.020



Chrome Steel Piston Ring Sets:

These ring sets have a top compression ring that is chrome plated and lapped for resistance to wear and scuffing, and faster seating. Steel material is used for high strength and excellent fatigue resistance. Intermediate rings are of Torsional twist design. Oil rings are of either circumferential design or Grant’s patented channel oil ring, both of which provide quick seating, positive oil control and long life.

Chrome ring sets are identified with an “S” prefix, example: S2271.020



Moly Piston Ring Sets:

These ring sets have a top compression ring which contains a section of 100% pure molybdenum with a melting point of 4730° Fahrenheit (2610° C). This high melting point reduces scuffing; scoring and heat transfer from the piston to the cylinder block. Molybdenum increases lubrication, improves compression and adds longer life as well as working with today’s shorter skirted pistons. The oil ring included with these sets is a three-piece circumferential design, which allows uniform unit wall pressure and efficient oil control.

Moly ring sets are identified with an “M” prefix, example: M2271.020

 

[Ceedawg]

It just occurred to me I’m sitting on a gold mine. 26 engines from /6 to a 572 Hemi. 5 cars and a lil red. God knows how many parts for each. Maybe I’ll sell out, getting too old, then let the young ones learn the hard way like I did.

 

[jammied]

What if the 340 block is 1k? Wouldnt you snatch that up and save up another 500 bucks or even 750 to get the 340?? I would. I’d rather save and have something worth having that building stuff like I have to live hand to mouth.

I guess the phrase "worth having" is a matter of perspective. To me a used up sub par 340 isn't worth having. I think the mopar R blocks can be had for $1000. For the most part most people just want the notoriety of saying they have a 340. $1000 for 22hp that's .2 in the quarter on the street you will never notice the difference. 340 doesn't have a longer life span when in use.

The 360's make a little less hp per second than a 318 so the difference there isn't as large as what some people would lead you to believe.

 

[Dave_J]

I wouldn't spend 1000 bucks on a 340 block, they're not worth it.

I would if it was in decent shape.

448S, theres the Rub, I do not have a 340 car to fake/clone numbers matching, so NO need for me to buy one of the GODS GIFT to the Mopar world.
If I did have a 340 car, I'd pickup a spare.

For just the $1000 340 core block I can get a lot done on a 5.9 Mag and be far ahead.
If a stock 340 makes (per Chrysler stats) 275@5,000 and 340 Tq@ 3200 RPM at the crank with no accessories and a Stock Junkyard USED 5.9 makes 288@4300 RPM and 386 Tq @ 3300 RPM with the same at the crank and no accessories I'd never bother with the 340. Its just not worth $1000 to everyone. a few but not everyone.

And that seems to rub the 340 cultists raw.

Buy what you want or need, no one is forcing you to not...

Gross figures:
340 = 275@5000 Hp and 340 ft/lb @ 3200
5.9 = 288@4300 and 386 ft/lb @ 3300. With long header 300@ 4500 and 399 ft/lbs @3400

To meet 1972 model-year emissions rules, the 340 was detuned; the compression was dropped to 8.5:1, and the intake valves were smaller. 240 gross horsepower and 290 lb-ft of torque. Still not NET rated, GROSS. Almost the same as a 1968-71 318, SHAME SHAME

NET figures:
5.2= 234@4100 and 295@3000 but this is NET and with accessories. Remember, the 318 was 235 Gross and 150 Net

 

[NC Engine Builder]

I guess the phrase "worth having" is a matter of perspective. To me a used up sub par 340 isn't worth having. I think the mopar R blocks can be had for $1000. For the most part most people just want the notoriety of saying they have a 340. $1000 for 22hp that's .2 in the quarter on the street you will never notice the difference. 340 doesn't have a longer life span when in use.

The 360's make a little less hp per second than a 318 so the difference there isn't as large as what some people would lead you to believe.

Show us a example of a good useable 59° r block for $1000....you cant

 

[Nat]

was there any need for that last statement? we all have opinions but don't need to abused for them. if you meant no offence then cool but maybe read what you type before posting as it sure sounded offensive

no offence , just sayin do what you want simple

 

[jammied]

Oh did they jump in price in the last few years also? Used to see them on eBay and Craigslist for around $1000

 

[jammied]

Here was one listed in the classifieds in 2018 here on for a bodies only

 

[318willrun]

Why not help the newbies and tell them to find more money instead of throwing garbage together. I don’t care who you are, you can’t build anything decent with 3k. Not even close. As I said early on, this argument is to fluff your ego. The real world doesn’t operate on financial skimping that ends up with something that is just a cleaned up worn out engine. I see you are quite happy the poll is rolling your way, and I call that a sad testimonial to the state of the hobby right now. Cheap is cheap and cheap is almost never good.

Alright, I'm taking this to task.

• Tell a 19 yr old he has to save to 10k to play in our hobby and you'll find him doing something else. I would have not been able to play for YEARS if I had to wait for a "certain amount". But I started playing at 14 when I bought my first '72 Duster. I would have told YOU the same thing then as I'll tell you now.... Go Fly a Kite.
• Fluff my EGO... LOL. Eat glass, pffft ! Do you know my name?? How many here on FABO KNOW my name and where I live ???? Yeah, it's what I thought, pretty much NONE! And it's all about me...... except nobody knows me. Hard to pat a back if you don't know where the back is or who the back belongs to........
• REAL WORLD??? I think I live on the same Earth as you. I think I can drive on the SAME roads as you. My most expensive motor I put together right now in all my classics is a 1450 dollar motor. Guess what? All run GRRRREEEAT !!!!
• Now, you can take your High Fly'n Ego and all your BIG dollar builds and stroke your ego with them.... they are nothing to me.