TorqueFlite Burnouts

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69valiant21

69valiant21

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I have heard torqueflites have to start burnouts in second gear. Is this true? Id love to know why.
 
Only with the 727. Also, as long as you keep spinning into second, there is no problem. The problem occurs when the tires hook on the 1-2 shift.
 
So 904 is not affected by this? Did not know. Always heard it to be weaker and it is ironic that it holds up better to burn outs.
 
I believe the only reason the 904 "is safer" is the internal components are small enough they generally don't produce enough force to fail
 
727 and 904 are equally prone to rolling the sprag.
Safest to start burnouts in second gear, but if need be, you can break the tires in first and then immediately upshift
 
What if I'm still running a regular valve body ?
Even if I "shift" into second, I'm still in first, no?
 
If you start your burnout in low and shift to second immediately. Been doing it this way all my life, never lost a sprag. The problem is when you over spin in low gear and something in the drive line lets go. Almost guaranteed to destroy the sprag.
 
been starting burning out in 1st gear with 727/904 for some many years i have forgot .....just do not come out of the water with a 727 in 1st gear...the 904 do not explode due to smaller mast of the front drum...but again...get out of 1st gear...before you get out of the water..
 
On my 440 Cuda with 14x32, 4.88's, 4800 stall I always started out in 1st, went on it and shifted immediately into 2nd then 3rd, and just sit there at 5k then just release the button and either ease out of it or if you wanna do a promod one keep it in.
 
So Im seeing a lot of 'you can start in first but dont finish in first'. How many guys finish their burnout in third? Should I be going to third?

My previous burnout procedure was roll through the box in first, stop, run first to 4500ish, shift to second again get around 4500ish then let off the gas. For the sake of my 904 I should break them loose in 1st and get to second soon after they are loose, but then what? Third? Keep on the gas but let off the brakes THEN let off the gas after shes rolling a bit?
 
69valiant21 said:
So Im seeing a lot of 'you can start in first but dont finish in first'. How many guys finish their burnout in third? Should I be going to third?

My previous burnout procedure was roll through the box in first, stop, run first to 4500ish, shift to second again get around 4500ish then let off the gas. For the sake of my 904 I should break them loose in 1st and get to second soon after they are loose, but then what? Third? Keep on the gas but let off the brakes THEN let off the gas after shes rolling a bit?
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My procedure has always been to stop in the water.. First gear, and give the gas a quick whack to wet the whole tire and move the car out of the puddle by a foot or two.
Stop completely..still in first, break the tires and as soon as I hear the motor come up strong, shift to second, wait a second and then shift to third with the pedal down hard.
I always take that as far out of the box as I is possible given the track or type of car it is.
I'm also a dry hop or chirpie type of guy. I know it gets the converter hot, but I like to gauge how the car is going to hit before I put the top bulb on.
 
If you have the power to turn them in third then yes, shift to high. I roll out after the burnout and let off the gas pedal at the same time. I never dry hit the tires afterwards, to me your looking to see if you can break something when you do.
 
j par said:
All Great stuff to know! I've never dragraced an automatic before... :popcorn:
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I raced a approx. 700h.p.manual shift hemi for 14 yrs., did have one explosion "pretty bad". What I`m wondering is-will a 727 shift to second, if u start out in second gear, in a full automatic ?? approx. 700h.p., don`t want another explosion.
 
I've started burnouts in both first and drive. But I've always made sure they upshift to second before letting off.

Occasionally while driving on the street. I'll drop it into first and rip it from the light. Screaming tires and smoke through the intersection. But I ALWAYS upshift into at least 2nd, if not 3rd. And let the car roll itself out of it. Despite the violence of the car going sideways. The screaming tires. And the piles of smoke. It always rolls out smooth if you upshift your way through it and roll off the throttle. No jerky motions or awkward shifts. That's the sorta thing that breaks stuff.

Same with burnouts. I'll either start them in first and upshift immediately (the car hits 6k rpm in about two seconds if I stand on it). And I'll upshift all the way to 3rd, the car has no problems ripping up to third in a burnout. Then let off the brakes and roll out of it. Or I'll just leave it in drive. Romp it. Make sure I hear at least the 1-2 shift. Then roll out of it smooth. Just letting off the throttle and letting the tires suddenly "catch" is hard and jarring on the drive line in my mind. If you roll out of it and it's nice and smooth. That's the best.
 
this was mine

0524100827.jpg


0522102039.jpg
 
whitepunkonnitro said:
My procedure has always been to stop in the water.. First gear, and give the gas a quick whack to wet the whole tire and move the car out of the puddle by a foot or two.
Stop completely..still in first, break the tires and as soon as I hear the motor come up strong, shift to second, wait a second and then shift to third with the pedal down hard.
I always take that as far out of the box as I is possible given the track or type of car it is.
I'm also a dry hop or chirpie type of guy. I know it gets the converter hot, but I like to gauge how the car is going to hit before I put the top bulb on.
Click to expand...

I do this without the dry hops.
 
skep419 said:
from moparts
View attachment 1715049516
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This makes me paranoid. I broke a axle last fall. I have been wondering if I should take out my trans and check it out. I caught it real quick when it broke and let out of the gas. About 4 years ago I broke a cap on my 9 inch rear. I took out the trans and got it checked out and everything was fine. I have a air shifter and when something breaks and it revs up it shifts into second gear. I think that is what saves the sprag.
 
Always have started in 1st and as soon as spin started pulled 2nd and then shortly third and pulled out. The ORC usually only fails after breakage. A bolt through sprag is a must for drag racing.
 
D-50394 said:
This makes me paranoid. I broke a axle last fall. I have been wondering if I should take out my trans and check it out. I caught it real quick when it broke and let out of the gas. About 4 years ago I broke a cap on my 9 inch rear. I took out the trans and got it checked out and everything was fine. I have a air shifter and when something breaks and it revs up it shifts into second gear. I think that is what saves the sprag.
Click to expand...

If it's a 727 you should inspect it.
 
In manual low, the low/reverse band is holding the drum unless the valve body &/or separator plate are modified to block it's operation in low, coming out of first by manually
shifting to second releases the band then hits second gear.......the transition between gears "hits" the sprag like a neutral drop.
 
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