Torsion Bar Adjustment

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KP

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I cannot remember! On my 1971 Plymouth what is the correct way to lower the front end by adjusting the torsion bar and how much can I go without having to have the front end A-lined?

Thanks,
KP
 
I cannot remember! On my 1971 Plymouth what is the correct way to lower the front end by adjusting the torsion bar and how much can I go without having to have the front end A-lined?

Thanks,
KP

I'm probably not the most knowledgeable, but if you will jack up your front end and look at the torsion bars you will see a bolt that goes into the lower arm and that is the adjuster for the torsion bars. Loosen to lower and tighten to raise. You should drive the car a short distance and check your ride height until you get it were you want it. As far as a-line being required, I don't really know. Hope this helps.
 
You should have the car re-aligned anytime you change the ride height, as the camber will change.

If you are only making a small adjustment, you may be fine.

Why is everybody so afraid of getting their car aligned?
 
The advice you got about the adjustment bolt is correct.
It doesn't take much to raise or lower it; it's just trial and error to get it where you want it.
Do get the front end aligned once you have it where you want it to be; it makes a huge difference in the handling characteristics.
 
What Would You Say That...


People have opinions about everything, and for some reason folks get sensitive about this subject, who knows why.

The camber is an adjustment that is set on the upper control arm relating it to the lower control arm that decides the wheel "tilt" in or out. When you adjust the torsion bars to raise or lower the height, the lower control arm angle is changed. However the upper control arm stays the same, thus changing their relationship and therefore changing the camber.

Some will tell you that if you have a very level driveway, you can use a carpenter's square and tape measure and measure the amount of camber that is there (providing is was correct, therein lies the whole problem and then the arguing begins) and then realign it to be the same by adjusting the cambolts to make the camber the same again. You will need to drive the car for a block or so to allow the front end to settle in after the torsion bar adjustments before adjusting the camber, but them you will have to drive it a block or so to let the front end to settle before measuring the new camber. It is a trial and error process that can be maddening.

At an alignment shop, your front tires are on floating pads, on a lift, and all adjustments can be done, made accurate, and if you pay for the lifetime warrantee, you can go back and have it realigned when you get new tires, change the ride height with the torsion bars, and as a bonus, you will be aligned with your rear tires.

My vote, get an alignment with a lifetime warrantee.

Ask around to get the recommended alignment specs based on todays radials. The shop will, if they have it, try to use factory specs that are not ideal with the radials.

What I have been told is this:
1) Decide on tire pressure and ride height (based on torsion settings you want) and set these before you go for the alignment.
2) Request 4.5 degrees positive caster, zero camber, and 1/16 to 1/32 inch toe-in.

These seem to be good for modern tires.
The 4.5 degrees adds stability to the driving, although the steering will be a touch stiffer.
If you are going to road-course race, you may want some negative camber (bottoms out further than tops). But if you have poly bushings, a sway bar, or beefy torsion bars, this may not be needed. Zero camber works well.
The slight toe-in will actually be zero toe-in while rolling, as there is a minor natural "spreading" of the tires when rolling.

In any event watch for wear. I have sprayed my tread with flat black paint and when dry taken my mopar for a short, gentle, straight drive. Upon inspection of the tread, you can see any funky wear going on.

Just my two cents worth, let the arguing begin!!!!!
 
If you lower it, be prepared for a crappy, sometimes dangerous ride.

Depends on how far you're going. My car has a slant six and looked like it was driving around without a motor under the hood. Lowered the front end an inch before I got it aligned and it helped the look a ton and I can't even tell the difference in handling.

I wouldn't go any further than an inch though.
 
I'm about to RAISE mine. Headers scrape. Castered in real bad. Just bought it. Looks like someone tried to just slam it.
 
I'm having a similar issue. my 66 has a 318 someone lowered it and tires rub and at times is scary to drive.

20171105_160353.jpg
 
There have been cases where a owner attempted to adjust ride height with vehicle weight on the adjusters. Bolts backed out, it lowered OK but...
When they tried to go back up a bit, they stripped the threads off the bolts. Best plan is jack the vehicle weight off no matter which direction you're going. All that jacking and lowering and rolling and jouncing just adds to the "fun".
 
GREAT LOOKING DART SPENCER, BUT JUST MY 2 CENTS WORTH, I WOULD GO BACK TO A MORE TRADIONAL WHEEL AND TIRE COMBINATION. YOUR WHEELS LOOK GOOD DON'T GET ME WRONG BUT I WOULD GO WITH A CHROME CRAGAR S/S OR SOMETHING ALONG THOSE LINES. LIKE I SAID JUST MY OPINION, BUT THE CAR WOULD REALLY POP OUT WITH A CHROME WHEEL. I KNOW OPINIONS ARE LIKE ASSHOLES EVERYBODY HAS ONE. ABSOLUTELY LOVE THE CAR THOUGH, I HAVE A 68 DART GT I AM WORKING ON.AND IS THE SAME COLOR AS YOURS. GOOD LUCK WITH YOUR CAR, BRIAN
 
thanks for the input scampman i honestly appreciate it. this is the first i have ever dealt with anything mopar so i am learning on the fly. so far i have only had the car for a month. I agree I hate the wheels, not my style at all. I'm leaning black steels maybe baby moons but going toward a traditional hot rod look but I have floor pans radiator and stance fix this winter so it' a good summer cruiser along with ignition and carb tuning to make it less of a dog.
 
DO YOU HAVE A SBP OR A LBP ON YOUR DART BECAUSE THE WHEELS I HAVE ARE FROM THE 60'S AND ALL ORIGINAL AND BRAND NEW. I WOULD MAKE YOU A SWEET DEAL ON THEM. I PAID $600 WITH SHIPPING BUT WILLING TO WORK WITH YOU ON A GOOD PRICE IF YOU ARE INTERESTED. REALLY NEED TO MOVE THEM OUT OF MY GARAGE BECAUSE I JUST BOUGHT A 2016 DODGE CHALLENGER R/T PLUS IN MAXIMUM STEEL METALLIC CLEAR COAT EXTERIOR PAINT. BRIAN
 
DO YOU HAVE A SBP OR A LBP ON YOUR DART BECAUSE THE WHEELS I HAVE ARE FROM THE 60'S AND ALL ORIGINAL AND BRAND NEW. I WOULD MAKE YOU A SWEET DEAL ON THEM. I PAID $600 WITH SHIPPING BUT WILLING TO WORK WITH YOU ON A GOOD PRICE IF YOU ARE INTERESTED. REALLY NEED TO MOVE THEM OUT OF MY GARAGE BECAUSE I JUST BOUGHT A 2016 DODGE CHALLENGER R/T PLUS IN MAXIMUM STEEL METALLIC CLEAR COAT EXTERIOR PAINT. BRIAN
SBP. but I'm not ready for wheels and tires yet. appreciate it though.
 
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