Torsion Bar Recommendation

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I am going to freshen up the front suspension of my 67 Barracuda.
Apllication is just street cruzing, no track time. The front end is basicly stock with KYB shocks and I will be adding a front sway bar.
I am seeking a pair of torsion bars that will offer a comfortable ride while suporting some spirited driving without breaking the bank. Would prefer USA produced product.
Any real world help you can offer would be greatly appreciated.
 
I have used 1.03" and the car felt great. Even better when I did the chassis connectors and torque boxes. If you are cranking tgem down and lowering the front, you may want to change out the bump stops to move the travel. The 1.03" were used on the street and some mid-paced road course. I liked them.

I now have 1.14" for more road course and autocross and canyon carving type driving.

I run a big Hotchkis swaybar. THAT feels great.
 
I've got the PST 1.03s. great ride. There's a few good choices out there. Good luck.
 
0.890 was the size the factory used on big-block Formula S cars. I installed them on my small block fastback long before 1.0+ aftermarket bars were available. These days everyone goes for larger diameter bars... it makes me wonder how the spring rates compare? Anyway, I would say .89 or .92 would be adequate for street cruising, combined with a sway bar. Remember, it's the sway bar that provides roll stiffness when cornering, and that feeling of quick turn-in that people associate with good handling. Higher front spring rates just provide anti-dive when braking, and they create a harsher ride. They also reduce weight transfer on acceleration, which is bad in the 1/4 mile. Anyway, I am kind of an iconoclast on this issue — I actually think the handling of my slant six convertible with factory .85 bars is OK, combined with a Hellwig hollow front sway bar. Real-world backroads are bumpy...
 
I have just suspension 1" bars and hellwig front sway bar. Rides very well (nothing that could ever be considered harsh) but I'd go larger if doing it over. Also upgrade the crappy kyb shocks.
 
Tuff call for adding handling and maintain ride comfort. Ride comfort alone is very subjective. Sway bars typically don't diminish ride quality so you might add front and rear sways before torsion bars and see if you like the added handling while maintaining the ride quality you have now.

I agree with abodyjoe, get some better shocks i.e Bilstein, Hotchkis, Viking, etc. I do feel KYB's for A bodies have a bad name because people don't realize they are stiffer that stock (meaning they control higher spring rates better) and really a bottom shelf performance shock. There isn't really that arena for our cars where folks want a drag suspension, OE or road handling suspension. There was a time when KYB was it for us for a performance shock and KYB makes more than one model of shock (but not for us) and is OEM to many major brands.

Short walled tires and better compounds aid in handling (and braking) too.

Modern Alignment is another thing to consider.

The slope thereafter begins to get slippery......
 
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Tuff call for adding handling and maintain ride comfort. Ride comfort alone is very subjective. Sway bars typically don't diminish ride quality so you might add front and rear sways before torsion bars and see if you like the added handling while maintaining the ride quality you have now.

I agree with abodyjoe, get some better shocks i.e Bilstein, Hotchkis, Viking, etc.

Short walled tires and better compounds aid in handling (and braking) too.

Modern Alignment is another thing to consider.

The slope thereafter begins to get slippery......
I agree with you Guy's regarding the shocks , the KYB shocks need to go.
At this point the torsion bars need to be replaced as the adjusters are near being topped out. I believe they are orignal to the car.
 
I agree with you Guy's regarding the shocks , the KYB shocks need to go.
At this point the torsion bars need to be replaced as the adjusters are near being topped out. I believe they are orignal to the car.

Good point on the torsion bars. if they are shot then year R&R them.
 
1.03" t bars, stock front sway bar with urethane bushings (because I cant make the new 1.125" bar fit right yet) one extra full leaf in the rear with 7/8" rear sway bar and Bilstiens all round. 67 FB 340 Cuda rides stiffer than stock but corners flat. Front will under steer when pushed because of 6" tread in front and 8" rear. I like the setup for a cruiser. Chassis and A Arms completely stiffened too.
 
1.03" t bars, stock front sway bar with urethane bushings (because I cant make the new 1.125" bar fit right yet) one extra full leaf in the rear with 7/8" rear sway bar and Bilstiens all round. 67 FB 340 Cuda rides stiffer than stock but corners flat. Front will under steer when pushed because of 6" tread in front and 8" rear. I like the setup for a cruiser. Chassis and A Arms completely stiffened too.
Sounds like a sweet setup.
I have alot to purchase yet
I have boxed in the LCA's
Some may not like it but have obtained Moog components to replace most of the joints and bushings.
Again, this is a weekend street machine on a budget. LOL
 
Everyone says the KYBs are "harsh" but I have never really noticed that — maybe I am just used to them after 25 years. My fastback, with stiffer springs and f & r swaybars is definitely more controlled, but also understeers, especially going downhill — really needs 80+ more HP to bring the rear end around, and that is with the same size tire on all 4. It is handicapped in the twisties by the super slow factory manual steering, although it gives good feel at high speeds. The convertible, with factory soft spring rates and front bar only, feels much more agile in low speed corners with the Borgeson power steering. I'd even say it's quicker through 20-35mph hairpins, despite (or because of) skinny tires. Also, in real world driving situations (Northern California back roads) it can maintain higher average speeds than stiffly sprung sports cars (TR6, 911) over badly-paved roads because of high ground clearance and the soft springs soaking up the bumps, while they have to slow down to keep their teeth and oil pans intact. There is a reason rally cars don't have super stiff springs — what they have is lots of suspension travel. Not preaching, just pointing out there are different approaches depending on how you use the car. Wheels and tires probably have more effect on handling than spring rates, and are easier to swap. But if you already have the tires you want, then it's time to look at the details.
 
1965 Hurst 4spd Slant Six Dart convertible.
Mopar Performance P5249150 383 V8 .890" Torsion Bars.
KYB Shocks. Rides firm, feels planted and stable.
Excellent combo, without breaking the bank.
Can't ask for much more out of this old dinosaur.

Picture 695.jpg
 
I am going to freshen up the front suspension of my 67 Barracuda.
Apllication is just street cruzing, no track time. The front end is basicly stock with KYB shocks and I will be adding a front sway bar.
I am seeking a pair of torsion bars that will offer a comfortable ride while suporting some spirited driving without breaking the bank. Would prefer USA produced product.
Any real world help you can offer would be greatly appreciated.

Any idea of what bars are in your car now ?
 
I agree with you Guy's regarding the shocks , the KYB shocks need to go.
At this point the torsion bars need to be replaced as the adjusters are near being topped out. I believe they are orignal to the car.

Just because the adjusters are nearly topped out, doesn't necessarily mean the TB's are bad. They could have been "clocked" incorrectly during the install. If you see gouges or rust, then yah they should be replaced.

TB's use to be cheap from Mopar Performance, then the price of steel went up, and they skyrocketed in price. I prefer Mopar TB's over aftermarket, but that's up to you. I would have no problem recommending a 340 (892/893) or 383 (894/895) torsion bar for your application.

torsion bars.jpg
 
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Just because the adjusters are nearly topped out, doesn't necessarily mean the TB's are bad. They could have been "clocked" incorrectly during the install.

TB's use to be cheap from Mopar Performance, then the price of steel went up, and they skyrocketed in price. I prefer Mopar TB's over aftermarket, but that's up to you. I would have no problem recommending a 340 (892/893) or 383 (894/895) torsion bar for your application.

View attachment 1715679387
Thanks Johnny great info
I will check the clocking, is their a written procedure I should follow?
 
Thanks Johnny great info
I will check the clocking, is their a written procedure I should follow?

Well, a factory service manual would help, (Captain Obvious here).
What happens sometimes is people install the torsion bars with the adjusters "clocked" to far up from the start. This takes a bunch of adjustment out of the picture. Starting with the adjusters "clocked" slightly down gives more adjustment room. Finding the sweet spot is the trick. Maybe others can help with their starting point.
 
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