Torsion Bar Removal -- Rear Plug

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lamplighter55

lamplighter55

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I have a question about torsion bar removal that I haven't seen addressed elsewhere.

I have a 1966 Plymouth Valiant. I'm rebuilding it's front suspension and I need to get the torsion bar out. I'm not planning on replacing them. According to the Shop Manual, you need to remove a lock ring AND a plug before backing out the torsion bar. The lock ring was no problem, but I don't know how to remove the plug. Does it pop out with the torsion bar or is there some other technique. I've attached a screenshot of the page from the manual. The diagram is of a Fury, but the manual doesn't show the other models and it doesn't differentiate in the instructions.

Torsion Bar Removal.jpg


Thanks in advance.
 
I'm a 64 Valiant owner... The diagram states (Fury)..??. I did NOT have a plug, just the locking ring when I recently replaced the torsion bars not sure if that changed into 66....
 
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Nope, never seen a plug either. Maybe they used them on the C's. Yours should just have a cir-clip in there.
 
Wouldn't worry,,,,if it's there, it should come right out once you've removed the circlip.. It'll come right out with the bar.
 
Photo the the torsion bar/plug would help.
 
If you're pulling the lower control arms, you don't need a special tool for the torsion bars. Once you get everything loose and unbolted, just knock or pry the control arms and torsion bars to the rear.
 
cudamark said:
If you're pulling the lower control arms, you don't need a special tool for the torsion bars. Once you get everything loose and unbolted, just knock or pry the control arms and torsion bars to the rear.
Click to expand...
That's good to know. I'll try it. Thanks.
 
Just a tip. When you go to put them back in, clean the hex ends off GOOD and the female hexes in the lower control arms and the torsion bar cross member. Then, coat the hexes of the bars with a high temp grease. Wheel bearing grease will work. That way you can get them out very easily next time.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Just a tip. When you go to put them back in, clean the hex ends off GOOD and the female hexes in the lower control arms and the torsion bar cross member. Then, coat the hexes of the bars with a high temp grease. Wheel bearing grease will work. That way you can get them out very easily next time.
Click to expand...
Yes! Even new bars often come with the ends painted which will make them stick.
 
I've worked on torsion bars on a '57 Dodge and all sorts of A-bodies ('67-up). I've never seen anything between the clip and bar.
 
cudamark said:
If you're pulling the lower control arms, you don't need a special tool for the torsion bars. Once you get everything loose and unbolted, just knock or pry the control arms and torsion bars to the rear.
Click to expand...
Loosen the tension on the lower control arms ( I always count the turns or mark the tension bolt for adjusting the height later). Remove the clip and slide back the bars. Be careful not to nick or damage the skin on the bars. If stuck, I wrap a rag around the bar and use vice grips to shake or tap the bars out. They be have grease cups on the inside of the bars, replace if damaged. Note: If you are changing the motor size (block) then you should change the size of the bars.
 
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