Torsion Bar Removal

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mtpierson

mtpierson

65 Dart GT Convertible
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Mar 9, 2012
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Spotsylvania VA
My 1965 Dart GT with 225 needs strut rod bushing replacement. Understand that the torsion bars need to be released from tension. The 65 Dart book indicates use of a specific tool that I doubt exists today. Any suggestions on how to SAFELY release and then re-torque the Torsion Bars after repair of strut rod bushings?

Thanks
 
Torsion bars are easy. You release the pressure by removing the adjuster blocks on the lower control arms. There is a small retainer clip in the back torsion bar crossmember frame rail. remove them. The "tool" that you use to remove the bar with is simply a block that bolts to the bar to allow you to tap on it. You could use a small u-bolt or even a good hefty set of vice grips. You just need to give the bar a few taps to get it moving out the back.
 
If you have a old bmx bike laying around you can take the handle bar stem off and use it to tap on the bars.
 
The tension in the bushing you're replacing makes the bar hard to remove. Use a pipe wrench to rotate the pivot toward the adjuster after you back it off. Don't tighten the nut on the front of the bushing pin until you put the car on the ground. The bushing will be in tension if you tighten it unloaded.
 
PoisonDart74 said:
If you have a old bmx bike laying around you can take the handle bar stem off and use it to tap on the bars.
Click to expand...


I bet that would work !
I bought the tool and it works like a champ.
The only down side to a vise grips is that you could gouge the surface and potentially have stress risers where it could fail.
If I was going to re-use them , I'd look for something that won't mar the surface of the bar.
But once they start moving , they pop right out.
 
I've removed them out by giving the pivot pin a whack.
 
use the lca to pry the "t" bar back-- i believe the moog instructions use this method-- so you do not even clamp on the :"t" bar. Lawrence
 
gregpurcell said:
Torsion bars are easy. You release the pressure by removing the adjuster blocks on the lower control arms. There is a small retainer clip in the back torsion bar crossmember frame rail. remove them. The "tool" that you use to remove the bar with is simply a block that bolts to the bar to allow you to tap on it. You could use a small u-bolt or even a good hefty set of vice grips. You just need to give the bar a few taps to get it moving out the back.
Click to expand...
Dont whack it too hard . lmao had to say it lol ..... If there really really stuck lossen the lca's give them a little wack .. Helped me ... Just saying lol but dont tak them off tell the t bars are out lol :happy1:Btw Do what was said up top 1st .
 
Search. This has been covered a gazillion times.

Forget the special tool. If you support the car on the frame rails, with the suspension hanging, and the torsion bar loader fully unscrewed, there should be no torsion on the bars and they should just slide out if you remove the rear wire clip. The grease on both ends is just to stop corrosion. If it won't slide out easy, because you live near the rusty north, unbolt the pivot bolt and pry the lower control arm back to push the T bar back, then wack the LCA forward and the T-bar should slide out of the LCA. Best to replace the rear rubber boot with a better polyurethane boot (~$12 pair).

Don't mix up the left and right T bars. A good chance to upgrade to thicker 0.87" T bars. I got a pair for $10 at a swap meet. Also forget the factory 1-piece strut rod bushings and use the Moog "improved design" 2 piece, especially if poly rubber. Some people found they needed to shave the thickness to get the LCA located correctly for caster. Also, face the cupped washers the correct way (read instructions).
 
Thanks for all the guidance. The rods came out easily, just as advertised. Another great save from all the resident knowledge in FABO. Hopefully they go back in just a easily.
 
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