TrickFlow Heads?

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imelmo

imelmo

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I've been perusing some of the different engine builds and horsepower combinations on here. See a lot of Edelbrock heads, Indie heads, and various others being used. Not seeing many people running the TruckFlow heads. Is there a reason for that?
 
these are pretty new and only available in limited quantities....that´s why these are not around more often. I think it´s a good head for a good price!

Michael
 
imelmo said:
I've been perusing some of the different engine builds and horsepower combinations on here. See a lot of Edelbrock heads, Indie heads, and various others being used. Not seeing many people running the TruckFlow heads. Is there a reason for that?
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Builds are out there, but right now it seems like actually getting the heads is pretty tough. Like 360duster said, they're still pretty new to the world. Mike at B3 engines built one that made around 600 hp and I can think of several more that have used them.
 
Do they not require quite a bit of cleanup work before
use for optimal performance.
 
:BangHead:
I could have bought a set of Trick-flows for the price I have in my ported and corrected Speedmasters.
 
I am running them and I am happy with the results.
Good price for a good product.
Availability now is the tough part,I want another set for a new build.
One of the best out of the box heads I have seen.
 
Trick Flow sets up their heads to be ready to run out of the box according to their criteria do they not? Who would/should be entrusted to check them over and, as some imply, correct them if not run ootb is what I want to know. Very subjective topic IMO. One head specialist says this. Another says that. One guy thinks the valve to guide clearance is fine, one thinks they are too tight. Valve job this valve job that. Spring heights etc. On and on...Who do you place faith in? The concept is to be able to buy the heads and install them OOTB. When we start seeing issues from OOTB installs then maybe worry. All I see in the injecting of doubt. We are not talking Speedmasters or some heads from a shithole head shop.... Stop with the nonsense.:soapbox:
 
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12many said:
Trick Flow sets up their heads to be ready to run out of the box according to their criteria do they not? Who would/should be entrusted to check them over and correct them if not run ootb is what I want to know. Very subjective topic IMO. One head specialist says this. Another says that. One guy thinks the valve to guide clearance is fine, one thinks they are too tight. Valve job this valve job that. Spring heights etc. On and on...Who do you place faith in? The concept is to be able to buy the heads and install them OOTB. When we start seeing issues from OOTB installs then maybe worry. All I see is some injecting doubt. We are not talking Speedmasters or some heads from a shithole head shop.... Stop with the nonsense.
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read what I said again. I didn’t imply they were too tight to run, I talked to a well known head porter who said they were a bit snugger than he would set them up, but they are fine to run.
in short, they can be run out of the box. Which is the first sentence I typed.
just want to correct your interpretation, if you were referring to me about the valve guides. Reread what I posted
 
They're very good for what they are, but the COVID lockdowns really put the squeeze on production.

Here are my dyno results. Check out my build thread for more details. But in summary it's a 421ci built loose for nitrous. Smaller roller cam. Makes great torque N/A. Should scream once the wet kit is installed

Resized-20220128-130130.jpg
 
B3422w5 said:
B3422w5 said:
read what I said again. I didn’t imply they were too tight to run, I talked to a well known head porter who said they were a bit snugger than he would set them up, but they are fine to run.
in short, they can be run out of the box. Which is the first sentence I typed.
just want to correct your interpretation, if you were referring to me about the valve guides. Reread what I posted
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Wasn’t referring to you directly but then again your mention of clearance must have triggered me as the valve/guides clearance has been mentioned in the past among various comments by others over the past couple years in various threads. I know your opinions on the heads from previous posts you’ve made. I agree they are an ootb head. Eye ball em, slap em on. I run them, initially ootb and then swapped springs later on. I know a little bit about the ones I have, including usage over time. Mine are holding up just fine.:thumbsup:
 
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64mopar said:
I am running them and I am happy with the results.
Good price for a good product.
Availability now is the tough part,I want another set for a new build.
One of the best out of the box heads I have seen.
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Yeah, I saw on their site if you order them now they are set to ship in February.
 
ch1ll said:
Got a link to your build thread? Fuel injection?
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www.forabodiesonly.com

421 Stroker with Trick Flow Heads/Intake Dyno - Redux

A few months ago I started a thread here about my 421 Trick Flow stroker project. After speaking with the mods, it sounds like there was a server issue and that thread got wiped out. Shame, because there was some good content in there and people seemed genuinely interested. So let's try this...
www.forabodiesonly.com www.forabodiesonly.com
 
Just Send It said:
They're very good for what they are, but the COVID lockdowns really put the squeeze on production.

Here are my dyno results. Check out my build thread for more details. But in summary it's a 421ci built loose for nitrous. Smaller roller cam. Makes great torque N/A. Should scream once the wet kit is installed

View attachment 1716002897
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that's great power from a [email protected] duration camshaft...
 
cookietruck said:
that's great power from a [email protected] duration camshaft...
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It turned out to be a good mill. Pulls like Hell with it being so light. Heads/intake did really well considering they are truly out of the box. Can't wait to introduce spray to it. My redneck math says it'll put me at 708-ish hp and 740-ish torque at the motor. More than enough for a street car.
 
Found the build thread. Got to say they tuned the carb dead on, never seen one that good. At first glance at the dyno sheet, I thought it was fuel injection.

One thing I would like to know is how many street miles before you freshen rings, bearings, valve job and springs. Being a little loose, would you have to freshen sooner than a tighter build?
 

ch1ll said:
Found the build thread. Got to say they tuned the carb dead on, never seen one that good. At first glance at the dyno sheet, I thought it was fuel injection.

One thing I would like to know is how many street miles before you freshen rings, bearings, valve job and springs. Being a little loose, would you have to freshen sooner than a tighter build?
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Believe or not, that Brawler carb was straight out of the box too. We barely touched it aside from the idle mix screws. I live about 2000ft higher than where the dyno is so I ended up jetting it down 2 steps to lean it out a bit. Aside from that, she was the star of the show. Love that carb.

Rebuilds really depend on how badly I abuse the motor and how many bottles I go through. My machine shop is excellent and uses the correct torque plates. I also check my oil and plugs religiously, so until the motor starts telling me there's a problem, there is no set mileage. I'm only using a 150 jet. In theory, it should live a very long time at that level. But if I start seeing a lot of metallic in the oil or I suddenly get detonation, then it may be time to dig into it. Just depends. The motor is constantly talking to you.
 
Just Send It said:
Believe or not, that Brawler carb was straight out of the box too. We barely touched it aside from the idle mix screws. I live about 2000ft higher than where the dyno is so I ended up jetting it down 2 steps to lean it out a bit. Aside from that, she was the star of the show. Love that carb.

Rebuilds really depend on how badly I abuse the motor and how many bottles I go through. My machine shop is excellent and uses the correct torque plates. I also check my oil and plugs religiously, so until the motor starts telling me there's a problem, there is no set mileage. I'm only using a 150 jet. In theory, it should live a very long time at that level. But if I start seeing a lot of metallic in the oil or I suddenly get detonation, then it may be time to dig into it. Just depends. The motor is constantly talking to you.
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I just wanted to get an idea the difference of refreshing rates between the loose engine and one built tight, as I too always wanted to build a loose engine that was juiced.
 
imelmo said:
Yeah, I saw on their site if you order them now they are set to ship in February.
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I ordered mine in July, haven’t received them, now Summit is telling me February.

440source has the Trick Flow heads in stock.
 
Car Nut said:
I ordered mine in July, haven’t received them, now Summit is telling me February.

440source has the Trick Flow heads in stock.
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Yea they like to keep us big block guys stocked. :D
 
ch1ll said:
I just wanted to get an idea the difference of refreshing rates between the loose engine and one built tight, as I too always wanted to build a loose engine that was juiced.
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Gotcha. There are so many variables involved. But the things that I focus on are the rod/main bearing clearances, viscosity of the oil I'm using, and the estimated oil flow rate. I set my tolerances from there. The machining work + how those tolerances are set will determine how happy and long it'll live. I've had nitrous motors go 20,000+ before having to dig into them. Just can't get too crazy and lift a head. Very rarely is it the rotating assembly that dies unless you spin a bearing.
 
Are your cylinder bores on the loose side to the piston skirt as well?
 
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