Troubleshooting Head Components

[Rug_Trucker]

240 Ford inline 6 had the valve seals laying in the bottom of the head. (claimed 9.2:1 factory compression) Tons of carbon in the chambers. 100K on it. Smoked bad, had tons of compression due to the clumps of carbon that made the chambers smaller. Tons of crap on the pistons too. Burned a lot of oil. It stopped after the valve job. I have heard the stories of blowing out the bottom ends of motors etc. Never seen it.

I rebuilt a 360, swapped heads at over 100K. No problems.

Ford 302, and others..........

 

[zmarty27]

Hey gang. I’m back. Update on the project is this: I took the head to a good family friend to get his ten cents on the subject. After some evaluation, we realized the exhaust valve guide on the 4th cylinder was giving us trouble, hence the severe build up and evidence in the exhaust manifold. He offered to just refurbish the whole thing, acid dunk to get the crud off, guide work, milling, and painting for $200. Sounded like a helluva deal considering my time is limited with work and grad school. I told him have at it at that price. I’m more comfortable now that I’ve heard he’s the best around having decades of experience on street and track rebuilds. Wasn’t the initial plan at all, but I figured “why not.” Certainly couldn’t hurt.

I am curious about the clean solvent trick… I’m still figuring out the do’s and don’t’s of the machine while it’s still partially in tact. If I did pour the solvent, and one cylinder had a failure, I would obviously need to drain the oil completely and wipe out the excess solvent. If I am not in a position to fix the error (and since it ran fine before), would I simply put the head back on, put in new oil and filter and rock on? Or would I need to clean up a bigger mess before putting humpty back together?

 

[Inertia]

Hey gang. I’m back. Update on the project is this: I took the head to a good family friend to get his ten cents on the subject. After some evaluation, we realized the exhaust valve guide on the 4th cylinder was giving us trouble, hence the severe build up and evidence in the exhaust manifold. He offered to just refurbish the whole thing, acid dunk to get the crud off, guide work, milling, and painting for $200. Sounded like a helluva deal considering my time is limited with work and grad school. I told him have at it at that price. I’m more comfortable now that I’ve heard he’s the best around having decades of experience on street and track rebuilds. Wasn’t the initial plan at all, but I figured “why not.” Certainly couldn’t hurt.

I am curious about the clean solvent trick… I’m still figuring out the do’s and don’t’s of the machine while it’s still partially in tact. If I did pour the solvent, and one cylinder had a failure, I would obviously need to drain the oil completely and wipe out the excess solvent. If I am not in a position to fix the error (and since it ran fine before), would I simply put the head back on, put in new oil and filter and rock on? Or would I need to clean up a bigger mess before putting humpty back together?

After separating the head, there is very often coolant and other crud your going to scrape off, will get into the oil.
New oil and filter was a given in my mind. No wiping should be nec.
No "don't" to the solvent, helps loosen the crap on the piston, and now you know something you didn't, lol, and can be aware.
Cheers

 

[zmarty27]

After separating the head, there is very often coolant and other crud your going to scrape off, will get into the oil.
New oil and filter was a given in my mind. No wiping should be nec.
No "don't" to the solvent, helps loosen the crap on the piston, and now you know something you didn't, lol, and can be aware.
Cheers

Ah I see. Is there a brand name that you would recommend?

 

[Inertia]

Ah I see. Is there a brand name that you would recommend?

I have 5 gal pail of solvent for cleaning.
If you have any light oil, varsol, paint thinner, kerosene, diesel.
It was just a thought, and a habit for me .
I pass on what I can with the time left.
Others might learn .

 

[RustyRatRod]

I would find out exactly what his plans are for the guides. 200 is suspiciously cheap for a complete rebuild.

 

[zmarty27]

I would find out exactly what his plans are for the guides. 200 is suspiciously cheap for a complete rebuild.

When I see him again, I'll be sure to ask. Pretty sure he was going to focus on that one and potentially a few more if they are not as precise as he would like. I'm also certain it won't be incredibly invasive.

 

[RustyRatRod]

I'm also certain it won't be incredibly invasive.

I don't even know what that means here. I would want it as invasive as necessary to get it right. All that trouble to fix one or two guides? Not this white boy. Good luck with it.

 

[TrailBeast]

I don't even know what that means here. I would want it as invasive as necessary to get it right. All that trouble to fix one or two guides? Not this white boy. Good luck with it.

I think he means that since he took it to someone there won’t be any surprises and everything will be just fine.

He’s more of an optimist

Really though, it’d be cool if he’s right.

 

[Rug_Trucker]

What oil filter has a stand pipe in it for the slant? I forget.

#1 filter not to get is Fram.

 

[RustyRatRod]

I think he means that since he took it to someone there won’t be any surprises and everything will be just fine.

He’s more of an optimist

Really though, it’d be cool if he’s right.

Oh no doubt. Since the last slant 6 was new in 1987, I kinda don't think he'll get that lucky.

 

[RustyRatRod]

What oil filter has a stand pipe in it for the slant? I forget.

#1 filter not to get is Fram.

I've never seen a filter with the stand pipe. The stand pipes are on the oil pump where the filter screws on.

 

[zmarty27]

Oh no doubt. Since the last slant 6 was new in 1987, I kinda don't think he'll get that lucky.

So far, I’ve only cut one knuckle in the process. Usually it’s eight. I’m liking the odds so far! lol I’ll keep everyone posted once it is finished. I’ll also post some progress on the block side if things.

 

[Inertia]

In my first post I mentioned suspecting a couple cyls losing fluid quickly.
With #4 sucking oil as it was, the oil flooding the guide likely causing a tarry substance to be blasted behind the rings every power stroke. The cylinders will be tapered and the rings are likely stuck in their grooves, at min taper, and won't seal.
This is one of those times you hope to be wrong, then experience pops up .
Good luck

 

[zmarty27]

Hey gang, just a thought while the head is being finished. Progress has been slow due to the freeze we had last week. In the meantime, I considered the sludge lingering on the oil pan side of things. Naturally, a change (as mentioned) is in order once the machine is back together. In order to clear out as much muck as possible, would I need to pull the pan and do a good wipedown, then do the old transmission fluid trick? With a squeaky clean head, valves, and all, will the transmission fluid harm or even reverse some of the work done in the shop? I know it won't be clean like a new vehicle because this is a limited rebuild/refurbish, but what other tricks of the trade could cure the chunks floating around? Thanks in advance. I've had a great time learning with you all.

 

[zmarty27]

Just heard back from the shop. Milling went well and the bare minimum was taken off. Apparently the head wasn't as warped as I had initially thought. He took a good look at the rest of the head and found that the exhaust guides were all in rough shape, which may account for the reason they were burnt to a crisp. He is going to apply new guides for an additional $100. Intake guides were looking great. My question, to follow up with my previous post, is this: what would cause the exhaust to burn so hot? Am I not getting enough cool air in there to alleviate the problem which evidently caused a bigger problem later? I do live in Southeast Texas where our summers regularly peak 109 on the heat index, but I rarely drive it during the day to cut back on the consequences of extreme heat. What can I do to help the exhaust temp? Thanks in advance.

 

[volaredon]

The exhaust side runs hotter on any engine. The best thing you can do is to make sure there are no restrictions in the exhaust, the freer flowing it can be the better. Also make sure you're not running too lean.

 

[zmarty27]

The exhaust side runs hotter on any engine. The best thing you can do is to make sure there are no restrictions in the exhaust, the freer flowing it can be the better. Also make sure you're not running too lean.

Allow me to rephrase. I understand the exhaust side runs hotter, but from the research I've made, mine has been running hotter than usual. Before upgrading the radiator and the fan, I was regularly on the verge of overheating. So far, I've only had one instance in the summer where I was getting into the danger zone for temps. Are there any threads on the forum you would recommend that would suggest upgrading the stock exhaust manifold?

 

[zmarty27]

Behold!

 

[zmarty27]

A quick question: I've reviewed a few videos online to mentally prepare myself for the installation, and I noticed half of the guys were adding oil through the oil galleries. Is that totally necessary? Or should I just pour in like usual?