Tti 1 7/8 headers

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canadian duster

canadian duster

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Looking for headers for my 408 running with 6-8 psi boost. Trying to decide on what size of headers would be best for my use. Will be mostly street driving and no strip within 300km. I believe the tti seem to be best fitting and compatible with ps and milodon pan.

Is it better to go to 1 7/8 or stick with 1 3/4
 
canadian duster said:
Thanks guys. Next question....how is the install?
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I have found that when installing headers, it's best to practice up your curse words. That way, when you need them, they roll right out, without hesitation and they make more sense that way.

A beer, and TWO shots of Wild Turkey to limber my stiff self up (back when I was younger...in my golden years I no longer deal with the liquid demon, but could substitute hippie lettuce if you so desire).

Find a good, solid door. Alternately slam your left and right hand in the door several times. The purpose of this is to get a good pissed off going. It just quicker to get the pissed off part going. Saves time.

Once you get that crap out of the way, pop a couple of Vicodin. This is so once you get on and off the ground a billion times, bend yourself up like a paper clip, bust all your knuckles multiple times and grind your knees to a pulp, you will have a head start on the pain.


My last suggestion is to start on Friday night. That way, you can work all weekend, not get it done and bang in to work Monday to finish the job and rest.

You can repeat any or all these steps as required to get through it all.

Rots of ruck raggy!!!!
 
canadian duster said:
Thanks guys. Next question....how is the install?
Click to expand...
I don't know about the 1-7/8 tube size but I just did the 1-5/8 to 1-3/4 standard port headers from to in the wife's '67 Cuda.

I did have a small figment issue with the #1 tube hitting the manual steering box on the top inside bolt. Shims helped but in the end, I ground down the bolts head. There is minor interference now.

Otherwise, it was EZ.

Do note that the header flanges bolt holes were very tight in fitment.
 
I did the TTI 1-7/8". If you are using an aftermarket shifter with the cable coming in from the front (traditional), one tube is directly in front of the shift lever. My collectors pointed to the center of the car , not straight back. The install was ok, but I have an HDK set up and no inner fenders to deal with, the column will be the first thing to remove though. It took longer to design a cable system to clear the one tube for a B&M shifter cable than the header install itself. I used the Milodon 30940 pan.
 
I run 1 7/8" TTi B/E body headers on my Duster, Its a 416 that dyno'd 502hp and I'm running a Milodon pro touring low profile oil pan.
1971-Duster-custom-engine.jpg
 
rumblefish360 said:
I don't know about the 1-7/8 tube size but I just did the 1-5/8 to 1-3/4 standard port headers from to in the wife's '67 Cuda.

I did have a small figment issue with the #1 tube hitting the manual steering box on the top inside bolt. Shims helped but in the end, I ground down the bolts head. There is minor interference now.

Otherwise, it was EZ.

Do note that the header flanges bolt holes were very tight in fitment.
Click to expand...


Damn, you blew the perfect chance to get drunk and curse a bit. Never let a good opportunity pass you by.
 
Trust me, I did, I REALLY did. But they were WAY easier than the typical 1 size fits all crap S/B headers.

Now that Indid these once, the next time on the ropes will be a whole lot easier.
Waaaaaaaaaaaay easier!
 
Well with a supercharger (I assume), unless you are bringing it in very late, the longtubes are not gonna bring much to the table, that shorties can't,and those shorties are are gonna be so much easier to work with.Just couple them to the biggest baddest maximumest headpipes that you can reasonably fit in/up there,all the way to at least the the biggest baddest maximumest mufflers.lol
Actually at 6/8psi,and on the street,dual 3s all the way to the bumper should do it.I mean you are building an engine that you can't floor it for more than about 5 seconds at a time, and you will be still in first gear,so the engine is very lightly loaded. It might even be OK with 2.5 after the muffs; and those will be a tad quieter than 3z.
 
The only ones I know of are Schumachers
But I just thought of something else. There was a company that was building a header that had 3 pipes going down normally and the 4th dropped down through the apron, and into the wheelwell, then joined the others down below. Now who was that? Maybe Doug's? I don't recall.
 
AJ/FormS said:
The only ones I know of are Schumachers
But I just thought of something else. There was a company that was building a header that had 3 pipes going down normally and the 4th dropped down through the apron, and into the wheelwell, then joined the others down below. Now who was that? Maybe Doug's? I don't recall.
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Think that was Headman...maybe the CPPA stuff from WAY back in the day. Now I'm giving away my age.
 
yellow rose said:
Now I'm giving away my age.
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LMAO! "Ol Crow!!!" LMAO

Reguardless! Your right!
There are a few headers made like that through the years. More race style than street though. Hooker has a set that I can picture in my head that has the #1 tube going straight down through the K frame. It makes a 90* turn rearwards to the collector.

I think it is "Crackedback" that has for sale Hookers or Hedmans that have this style but only 2 pipes doing that. Big pipe IIRC @ 1-7/8.
 
The Shorty Header you are talking about was made by Spitfire. Thank God they went out of business. Major issues with delivery of promised goods. I think he sold the design to a company out in Washington state which promptly pretty much doubled the price.

Bob
 
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