TTI Header “ break in “ thoughts

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moparhunter

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Hi all , I have a new set of TTI ceramic coated headers ( big Block Dart ) I’m trying to not mess up the coating on initial fire up so I’m going to run them on a test stand with a used motor to get them “ broken in / heat cycled “ what can you offer for guidance as far as how long do I have to let this motor run? Should I run it for five minutes shut it off let them cool down or just let it run for 20 minutes half an hour. Please share your thoughts with me on this.
 
You can break them in on the engine. Done many of them.

TTI says that because people have little experience breaking in an engine. They set the timing to factory specs and the exhaust runs hot. Setting timing as if they were running it in the car under normal condition and broken in already. They don't want to deal with the warranty issue from user error.

The key is to get the engine fired and put 40* of timing in it. 2000 rpm with 40*. If you vary the RPM between 2000-2500, make sure the minimum timing is 40*. No load and the engine won't care. Exhaust will be cooler and not mess up the coating.
 
Are you talking about breaking in your header? Not required.
If your engine is already run in just bolt headers in and go. Drive normally.

If it’s a new engine, break the motor in first with crappy headers or exhaust manifolds etc. once run in bolt your good ones on and go.
 
It doesn't really matter they will still rust. Here is a set on the car for 1 year . Never driven in the rain but parked outside. Came back for a different clutch. Check out the TTI header ahead of the collector. It is rust coated

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Yes, breaking in a cam on engine ,
Just trying not to kill the coating with too much initial heat.
Does anybody have an idea on how long I should run them for or should I just get the motor up to temperature shut it down and let it cool off or can I run it for an hour or … again trying to “ break on the coatings these things weren’t cheap
 
It would also be prudent to use a carb known good, off a car that runs really good, as opposed to one you picked up at a swap meet, and/or sat on a shelf for years, "just for this engine build".
A lean carb either side, may cause unwanted heat .
 
The key is to get the engine fired and put 40* of timing in it. 2000 rpm with 40*. If you vary the RPM between 2000-2500, make sure the minimum timing is 40*. No load and the engine won't care. Exhaust will be cooler and not mess up the coating.

For breaking in a flat-tappet engine, This ^^^^^ is the key.
The only thing I do different is that as soon as the engine is running, I rev it up to around 2000, and just pull the timing in until the engine slows down cuz it's fighting the pressure, then retard it again until it runs free. Then I fix the throttle at that rpm. While doing this, the rpm will scoot up quite a bit, but as cracked says, in the window of 2000>2500 is good.
I leave the timing light in the tool box. Then I check for leaks.
After you get this done, then you can put the timing light on it, just to satisfy your curiosity.
As others have said, it's a good idea to install a carb that is known to be trouble free, and the cooling system has been pressure tested, as has the fuel system, and make sure the PCV system is working. Break it in, outdoors, cuz the engine will bake the paint and smoke for a while; but more importantly, if the darn thing catches fire, well at least you'll have a shop left.
I must confess, that until your post, I never heard of breaking in headers.
 
I would contact the header and or the coating company and follow their recommendations. Ultimately they are probably looking for a certain temperature and cure time. Might be better to take them to a powder coating place that has an oven big enough for headers so the time and temperature can be done in a controlled environment. I don't recommend doing it during engine break in unless you have to. Your first priority should be the engine during break in. You don't need the distraction of the headers during this time. But if you have to make sure your timing is correct (not retarted) and have some fans at the ready that can be directed at the headers to help cool them if needed. Also a way to measure tube temp. Keep in mind infrared promoters don't work on shiny reflective surfaces. Good luck!
 
You aren't breaking in a fresh engine, doing a fresh camshaft?

Put them on, get the timing into it and run them.
 
I do know the instructions say you should always let the car come up to operation temp before shutting it down so condensate doesn’t form in there
 
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