TTI Header Fitment Issues

-

340sFastback

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 25, 2007
Messages
4,989
Reaction score
2,810
Location
Maryland
Now that my engine is in and the trans lines have been rerouted I am focusing on getting the headers installed. TTI instructions say engine should sit 5 1/4" from middle of balancer to top of k-frame; mine sits about 5". TTI also says engine should sit 2 1/2" offset to the passenger's side, mine sits 3" offset.

If I use no shims the driver's side slip tube lays on the torsion bar and headers hit the steering linkage. If I place a 3/8" shim under passenger's side mount and 1/4" shim under driver's side mount everything clears well but engine then sits 5 1/2" high instead of the 5 1/4" high. I believe I need to elong the motor mount bracket hole and move the engine back 1/4" along with reducing shim thickness to get it all to clear and have the correct height.

I do believe the problem is my k-frame is sloppy from the factory causing the engine to not be placed correctly in the chassis. Anyone else have these issues?

Here is quote from the TTI FAQ:

" What can I do if my headers are hitting the steering box, steering linkage, torsion bar, etc...?
The headers are designed to fit the chassis with the engines located to the factory dimensions. However, all K-members are not the same, the location of the engine mount pads on the K-member are not consistent and the fore and aft location and the width between the mounts differ. Because of these variations it is often necessary to place shims between the K-member and the insulator assembly to shift the engine from side to side or to raise the engine up to meet the required factory placement dimensions. If the engine sets to far forward on the K-member there could be interference with the idler arm or pitman arm of the steering linkage. This problem can be resolved by slotting the mounting holes in the steel mount attached to the engine and moving the engine back in the chassis. 1/4” will normally solve the problem. Due to the limited space in the engine compartment, it is imperative that the engine be setting in the correct location for the headers to clear all chassis components. "
 
I don't want the vibrations solid mounts will give. I will be using a Schumaker torque strap:

http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/entost.html

I ran solid motor mounts years ago on the street in my old '69 340 Swinger with a radically-built motor. My motor was internally balanced and I never experienced any excessive vibration or breakage with the solid mounts. It can be done.
 
I don't want to hear buzzing/rattling of interior panels/windows/dash etc while driving down the road so solid mounts are not an option for me.
 
I notched the driver's side motor mount bracket 1/4" to move engine back, reinstalled with one shim on driver's side and two shims on the passenger's side. Engine fell right into place and everything has good clearance now. Funny I didn't need to notch the passenger's side mount. I also got the 5 1/4" between middle of balancer and top of k-frame like TTI specifies. Its looking good now and no denting!!
 
nice reading you did it right instead of denting pipes and or leaving it to hit everywhere:)
these cars where not realy perfect of the asembly line so i gues its kind of hard to make headers that always fit all cars all the times
 
Just to follow up, the headers fit the car perfectly with lots of clearance around torsion bars, frame, and steering linkage. I am pretty impressed with the fit. You just need to make sure your engine is sitting in there the way TTI specifies which is not always easy to accomplish. I spent a few days messing with mine to get it right.
 
I had the same issues and had to make 1/4" spacers for each side, drivers side would pound the power steering box, and then found that my MSD distributer would hit the wiper motor:angry7:. I had to buy a stock height dist. I have the engine out right now and was going to install the "poly-loc" mounts they are approx 1/4" thicker than stock biscuts.
 
These headers do not fit properly on 67 to 72 year model cars, they do fit on 73 and up due to the difference in the steering linkage on 67 to 72 cars the tierod end studs face up and hit the headers every time and TTI provides instructions on how to get them to fit which requires shimming the engine up 3/8" to 1/2" which raises the engine 1/2" to 5/8" higher measured at the crank so now with the engine in its new location which is out of factory spec by the way, we now have new issues crop up with distributor and hood clearence I have spoke to TTI about fixing the problem and there is room to do so and they said to shim the engine up and move the engine back to get proper clearence well all of this jockying around is just the "tail waggin the dog" I am pretty sure they used 73 or newer car for their template, they should adjust the headers so we dont have to reengineer our cars to fit their headers
 
I tried to mount a set on my 68. Spent hours upon hours trying to get them in. I got so angry with them,I took them out and put a set of regular headers in and had them installed in less than 1/2 hour. It's ashame the nice TTI headers are just in a box now.
 
These headers do not fit properly on 67 to 72 year model cars, they do fit on 73 and up due to the difference in the steering linkage on 67 to 72 cars the tierod end studs face up and hit the headers every time and TTI provides instructions on how to get them to fit which requires shimming the engine up 3/8" to 1/2" which raises the engine 1/2" to 5/8" higher measured at the crank so now with the engine in its new location which is out of factory spec by the way, we now have new issues crop up with distributor and hood clearence I have spoke to TTI about fixing the problem and there is room to do so and they said to shim the engine up and move the engine back to get proper clearence well all of this jockying around is just the "tail waggin the dog" I am pretty sure they used 73 or newer car for their template

How do you shim the 73 and up mount?
My distributor is already real close to the firewall.
 
How do you shim the 73 and up mount?
My distributor is already real close to the firewall.

That's the thing, they fit on the 73's and the K-member measurement is correct as I said in my other post there is enough space to create some wiggle room so this problem dosent exsist even if the car isint perfect. Heck the way it is now you have to raise the engine a 1/2" to 5/8" to get them to fit as it is which is out of spec
 
These headers do not fit properly on 67 to 72 year model cars, they do fit on 73 and up due to the difference in the steering linkage on 67 to 72 cars the tierod end studs face up and hit the headers every time and TTI provides instructions on how to get them to fit which requires shimming the engine up 3/8" to 1/2" which raises the engine 1/2" to 5/8" higher measured at the crank so now with the engine in its new location which is out of factory spec by the way, we now have new issues crop up with distributor and hood clearence I have spoke to TTI about fixing the problem and there is room to do so and they said to shim the engine up and move the engine back to get proper clearence well all of this jockying around is just the "tail waggin the dog" I am pretty sure they used 73 or newer car for their template, they should adjust the headers so we dont have to reengineer our cars to fit their headers

alot of folks forget that while they are shimming the engine mounts they are effecting the driveshaft angles. when i installed my TTI's on my 383 i had to shim up the engine 1/4" on both mounts to clear the pitman are stud. i also put a 1/4" shim under the trans mount to make my engine have the proper 2-3 degree slope at the tail shaft.
 
The TTi 1 7/8 tube headers fit in my 69 cuda with no problems and I removed the power steering and installed the manual steering by disconecting the trans mount and engine mounts and raising the engine in the car.I did disconnect the driverside header from the head but didn't remove it.
 
-
Back
Top