TTI's and B&M shift cable

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340RT

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I seem to bee having trouble with bm shift cable meltin gettin to close to the headers.Any suggestions.
 
I had to get one about a foot shorter to clear the headers on my truck. On my Duster, I'm going with a Turbo-Action Cheetah shifter as the cable enters at the rear of the trans. You can also make your own standoffs out of strap steel and/or wrap it with some plug wire insulation.

Check out this thread for more info. http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=69922
 
Mine did it with the first cable too with Hooker headers. I had to get a longer cable (6 foot) to route it a different way to clear the headers. No problems now.
 
thanks guys.I was on brice rd tonight.I put a new hd cable on today.I had to stop cruisin when I realized the cable was melting again.I have had 3 different riggings on this cable set-up.Tomorrow I will try somethin new.The guy down the street is a aircraft mechanic,He has some heat tape from work.He said we could bulid some heat sheilds or wrap the cable& tie it closer to the block.Brice rd was cool.I have not had the Dart out in 5 years.I was not getting it out,but thursday night I went to Brice rd for dinner.I got the fever again.I thrashed on the car to get it ready, it been sittin for 5 years.

7-12-08 nikki's dart 002.jpg
 
Good luck - after melting two I was done (B&M with 340/727/TTI's) Just can't get enough clearance to route the cable cleanly straight in from the front (cooler lines were fun, too) Bought a Cheetah and all is well - if I ever do aftermarket shifter again, it'll be rear entry - problem solved.
 
340RT, I junked my B&M cable shifter because of the same problem you
are having. My 65 Valiant is now shifted by a Lokar Nostalgia double bend
shifter. Works great.
 
my 69 dart is currently inop due to the same problem..(cable #4)
it sux
 
This was reported over on BBD:

www.imperialservices.net has replacement cables for B&M and Hurst shifters. These have a spiral wrapped jacket so they will not fail like the B&M POS cables. You will have to call or email to order.

I wonder if anyone has tried installing a heat shield on the header tube or collector rather than trying to insulate the cable - or both.
 
70duster440 has the idea. ive heard of alot of shops and people that have done builds on cars that have an issue with the cables getting eaten by the headers. one thing you can do is wrap your headers in the problem areas or fabricate a heat shield to protect the cable. some thing simple like the heat shields that protect your starter is all you need.
 
This was reported over on BBD:

www.imperialservices.net has replacement cables for B&M and Hurst shifters. These have a spiral wrapped jacket so they will not fail like the B&M POS cables. You will have to call or email to order.

I wonder if anyone has tried installing a heat shield on the header tube or collector rather than trying to insulate the cable - or both.

Figures I just bought a new B&M cable. Hopefully it lasts. I used a longer one and got it farther away from the headers.

use a 4ft cable......

4' cable wouldn't even reach on mine no matter how I routed it. I had to go with a 6' cable to route it away from the headers.
 
Thanks guys.I bought some heat wrap.Fabricating a bracket to hold the cable closer to the block.Putting the wrap on the bracket.
 
4 ft cable and wrapped header pipe closest to cable.Lets see how long this fix works.
 
Still have my 1st one. My cable comes out the front and over the top of the trans comes out just over the top of the starter and loops back to go to the trans. The loop goes between starter and the block.
 
I ran mine out over the steering column then back to the shift linkage bracket. works perfect with no melting. I did add a wrap just in case though..
Hkeller
 
installation instuctions on these B&M shifters clearly say "DO NOT WRAP CABLE"

supposedly all the wrap does is hold the heat inside of it and get the cable too hot to where it ruins it.
 
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