tti's turned gray?

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345man

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put a set of tti's on my 340 last summer and done ok, last fall made 1 nos pass and after that the polished,ceramic coated, thermal barrier, Mucho $ headers turned to a gray haze about an inch or two past the flange anyone else had this trouble? oh yeah and looked the other day and guess what the flanges and right past them on a few tubes, spots of rust are showing, they say if the car sits a while to oil them but I start it and let it heat up about every 3-4 weeks to avoid this prob during winter, anyone got any answers or similar probs?
 
I've got the nickel plated ones on my duster,they're still looking good after 3 years,i also polish them by hand before the season starts each year...
 
temps most likely got too hot on them.. its very common. those coatings need your tune up to be damn close to being dead on to hold up. if it isn't then they get dull like that... that stuff always rusts sooner later.
 
340srule said:
I've got the nickel plated ones on my duster,they're still looking good after 3 years,i also polish them by hand before the season starts each year...
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Nickel plated would be the chrome ones right?

I realize that the chrome ones turn blue but the main objective in my book would be defeating rust. I really don't care what my headers look like as long as they are not rusting. Rust means they are down to bare metal. I mean if the chrome don't rust at all why would you buy the ceramic coated ones if they eventually start rusting?

I'm going to get some TTI headers one day mainly for the fit but still undecided about the chrome or ceramic coated. If 345man is having trouble with the discoloration then I'm leaning toward the chrome ones.
 
My dyno max headers did the same after starting a new engine ,if they get too hot the beauty is gone ,then rust will start.My friend grayed a set and dyno max recoated them free ,I don't know if that is warranted these days ,I doubt it .
 
maybe the plated are better who knows?:toothy10:
 
345man said:
put a set of tti's on my 340 last summer and done ok, last fall made 1 nos pass and after that the polished,ceramic coated, thermal barrier, Mucho $ headers turned to a gray haze about an inch or two past the flange anyone else had this trouble?
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Same thing happened to my Polished TTI's after break-in and 200 miles. I guess it's normal.

No rust yet.

I can't recommend the Polished option to anybody.
 
The ceramic ones help to keep the exhaust hot and not under the hood. That will help to keep your air going into the carb cooler and more dense = more power. Even though chrome retains heat ceramic does it better, they're like having wraped headers W/o the wrap.
 
The temp probably got too hot due to running lean. Like Joe said they are picky about that. Break in is especiallly hard on them I've noticed. I didn't have coated headers but painted ones and when I broke in my engine it burned all the paint right off of them. Later that year I blew the engine and rebuilt it and by that time I allready had the carb. dialed in and set the timing right on and that break in it didn't even begin to burn the paint.
 
they fit great but beginning to wonder if they are worth the cash, 700 + is a whole lot of money for a about a year of looking good then looking worser gradually, i agree wonder if stainless would't be better?
 
345man said:
they fit great but beginning to wonder if they are worth the cash, 700 + is a whole lot of money for a about a year of looking good then looking worser gradually, i agree wonder if stainless would't be better?
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I with you on that.

Besides what '68-340-S had to say I'm still leaning toward the chrome ones.

Stainless would be the ticket. But reading stuff about polishing stainless trim pieces on cars it says not to get the trim to hot on the buffing wheel because the stainless would lose its ability to resist rust. Maybe that's the reason.
 
the chrome ones will rust also. probably faster then the coated oned. i know because thats whats on my car..... they also will not turn blue if your tune up is right.
 
abodyjoe said:
the chrome ones will rust also. probably faster then the coated oned. i know because thats whats on my car..... they also will not turn blue if your tune up is right.
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Well that's not good.

I'm the one that will get the ceramic coated and then they'll turn gray sure as the world. LOL!
 
i have ceramic headers on my streetrod but i had them coated inside and out. being a streetrod with an early hemi i don't run a hood or fenders,have been caught in the rain plenty but the coating on the headers is still nice. the first time the engine was fired the first 2-3" turned flat gray. i have found that mothers mag wheel polish will bring them back to shiney. i don't know if you want to polish headers or not it might worth a try.
 
I have the TTI's and they have lost their luster. I was told by a friend that the jet hot coating can be polished back to original shine if you heat up the finish and use a real fine wool. Anyone else heard or tried this?
 
RBSGARAGE said:
i have ceramic headers on my streetrod but i had them coated inside and out. being a streetrod with an early hemi i don't run a hood or fenders,have been caught in the rain plenty but the coating on the headers is still nice. the first time the engine was fired the first 2-3" turned flat gray. i have found that mothers mag wheel polish will bring them back to shiney. i don't know if you want to polish headers or not it might worth a try.
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I'll second the suggestion of using Mothers mag wheel polish,that's what i use on my tti's..and they're still looking good after 3 seasons...
 
just buff them with a good clean soft cloth or something else, i'm going to try it and i hope it works, how about the rust around the flanges, any suggestions?
 
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