Under $4k budget build LA360 build

-
J

John Collins

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 13, 2020
Messages
330
Reaction score
175
Location
Los Angeles
I am new to Mopars and never was a mechanic, but turned wrenches in my youth a bit and work with my hands when employed. My plan is vague at the moment and full of holes, but I hope to continue to improve upon that in the next couple weeks, before moving forward with the build. Due to budgetary reasons, I have all the time I need, to slowly develop a plan. I’m normally a pretty quick moving type of person, so this will be slightly painful, but necessary... Even if I had $7k upfront for a nice crate engine anyways, so now that I don’t have a choice, I’m going settle in. I bought a series of books that will be arriving soon that will be reading to gain more knowledge beforehand and I’ll continue to stock the build threads on this site.

I want to build a streetable engine that’s reliable and not too aggressive that can run on 91 octane pump gas and has a high enough compression to get the tires moving... 9.5-10:1 compression? I’ve seen a few head, cam and piston combos out there that will produce this. I need to learn more about quench and whole lot more, to do this effectively. Lol.

The one purchase I made so far was a very clean .40 over LA360 from late ‘75, pretty pristine 974 iron heads and a stock crank. The block was tested, cleaned, honed and prepped for a build when the previous owner decided to go another way and buy a Crate engine from Blueprint, crank was grinded at the same time and the heads look to be untouched other than cleaned... That’s not confirmed though. Doesn’t matter as I’m either replacing them entirely with 2.02/1.60 J heads or Edlebrock RPM heads, or whatever heads turn out to be the best for my final build plan. I’m going to try my hand at cleaning up and porting the 974’s myself. I do not plan on succeeding, but I’ll take a shot at it. I want to cut in 2.02 valves in as well. I have not researched this thoroughly and I’ve only watched(many) videos on it and read some in depth threads here. In the end, it’s not an expensive experiment and I have time right now to work on it. If I succeed, I’ll use the 974’s. Thank you for reading.
 
Sounds like you are in for a fun experience and will have a stout motor when you are done
 
Thanks! It should be a fun ride!

Forgot to mention I currently have a 904 and an 8 3/4 with 3.23 gears with a helical sure grip from Doctor Diff and 10” rear drum brakes.
 
My 360 build
I just finished a similar build. Here is the thread. It took me some time! Around 2 years but alot of that was saving up some money and gathering parts and about 6 months it was at the machinist. All I had done was the machine work I did all the other work myself. Take it from me pay them to do the cam bearings lol. I bought the tool and messed up one set and had to buy another set. By the time it was all said and done I paid more doing it myself haha. Look over the thread if you skip to the end you can hear it running. Oh I forgot to mention i have less that 4k in it. Idk the exact cost because I stopped counting but its less than 4k. I would say somewhere around 2500-3000. But remember I did all the work myself. My machine work bill was less than 500. They bored honed and did a valve job on the heads and that's it.
 
dartfreak75 said:
My 360 build
I just finished a similar build. Here is the thread. It took me some time! Around 2 years but alot of that was saving up some money and gathering parts and about 6 months it was at the machinist. All I had done was the machine work I did all the other work myself. Take it from me pay them to do the cam bearings lol. I bought the tool and messed up one set and had to buy another set. By the time it was all said and done I paid more doing it myself haha. Look over the thread if you skip to the end you can hear it running. Oh I forgot to mention i have less that 4k in it. Idk the exact cost because I stopped counting but its less than 4k. I would say somewhere around 2500-3000. But remember I did all the work myself. My machine work bill was less than 500. They bored honed and did a valve job on the heads and that's it.
Click to expand...

Thank you for the advice!! I’ve actually read your build thread! Great job. I’ll be revisiting it soon!

I’ve read 318Willrun ‘s as well.


Good times!!
 
John Collins said:
Thank you for the advice!! I’ve actually read your build thread! Great job. I’ll be revisiting it soon!

I’ve read 318Willrun ‘s as well.


Good times!!
Click to expand...
I will be glad to help anyway I can feel free to ask anything. Im no expert but its fresh since I just finished lol.
 
dartfreak75 said:
I will be glad to help anyway I can feel free to ask anything. Im no expert but its fresh since I just finished lol.
Click to expand...

I just did a quick look at your thread again and it’s pretty close to what I’m looking at doing! I’ll definitely be looking for some guidance... I appreciate it!
 
John Collins said:
I just did a quick look at your thread again and it’s pretty close to what I’m looking at doing! I’ll definitely be looking for some guidance... I appreciate it!
Click to expand...
No problem bud. I will be glad to help
 
Well, as for taking a long time to build...hell; I'm the King of Longevity. (My resto has been going on since 2005 and the car has been parked since 1982, if you've seen my resto thread.) In that time period I've changed it up and shifted gears numerous times, each time costing me addition money (sometimes a lot) so I understand that aspect! It's best to formulate a plan right at the beginning WRT HP and ET requirements, car purpose (cruiser, show car, occasional strip car, etc) Quite honestly, you'll get great advice here on the forum, some as good as the slew of books out there, and some even better. Since you have chosen a bottom end for your build, let's start there...block, crank, rods and pistons. Do you know what you have yet, and are you planning on using them as-is or do you have upgrades planned?
 
Attend Spring Fling in Woodley Park in the Spring and Fall Fling in the Fall. You might be able to pick up some parts at the swap meet. Looks like Spring Fling is not happening this year though.
 
Captainkirk said:
Well, as for taking a long time to build...hell; I'm the King of Longevity. (My resto has been going on since 2005 and the car has been parked since 1982, if you've seen my resto thread.) In that time period I've changed it up and shifted gears numerous times, each time costing me addition money (sometimes a lot) so I understand that aspect! It's best to formulate a plan right at the beginning WRT HP and ET requirements, car purpose (cruiser, show car, occasional strip car, etc) Quite honestly, you'll get great advice here on the forum, some as good as the slew of books out there, and some even better. Since you have chosen a bottom end for your build, let's start there...block, crank, rods and pistons. Do you know what you have yet, and are you planning on using them as-is or do you have upgrades planned?
Click to expand...

47 page thread starting on a cold night in 2006... Man, I wish mine was a ‘72. Lol. I’ll read through it over time!

My friend is picking up the .40 over core, regrinded crank and heads today at 4 central time. He’s going to report back to me before handing over the cash. From what ms been discussed though, it was all ready to start a build in March last year, before he decided to go the Blueprint route. I’m hoping it is what he says it is, otherwise I’m overpaying(considering the delivery fee) quite a bit. After 4 conversations with him, doing a background check(I did this because he was initially going to ship it and wouldn’t accept PayPal) and seeing pics, I believe him. A suckers born everyday though and I might just be that sucker right now. My first thought was to go with stock rods and either Keith Black 107’s or Power Pro pistons H116CP. After some thought and reading your post about the machining cost of used pistons, I think I’ll be going to with the Eagle SIR6123cb’s. I really don’t want to spend $900 though to complete the bottom end on this thing. I’m hoping to get lucky and find someone selling a set here for cheaper. There’s a set of the h116cp’s with rings on FABO for $300 shipped. Too bad they’re .30 over, but it gives me hope that I can get lucky and find a cheaper route. I don’t want to skimp on the bottom end and in the end, I’ll do what makes sense quality wise over cost, for the sake of longevity of the engine. I need to order a 360 rebuild kit. Mancini has one for $420 that comes with Rod bearings, Main bearings, Cam Bearings, Freeze Plugs, Oil Pump, Gasket Set, Moly Rings and Cast Power Pro Pistons. I need to find out what pistons they are, but it seems like a good deal as long as they’re not the 405CP’s.
 
KosmicKuda said:
Attend Spring Fling in Woodley Park in the Spring and Fall Fling in the Fall. You might be able to pick up some parts at the swap meet. Looks like Spring Fling is not happening this year though.
Click to expand...

We have a monthly vintage car swap meet here and I’ll be going to the next on on March 21st. It’s pretty bad ***.
 
John Collins said:
47 page thread starting on a cold night in 2006... Man, I wish mine was a ‘72. Lol. I’ll read through it over time!

My friend is picking up the .40 over core, regrinded crank and heads today at 4 central time. He’s going to report back to me before handing over the cash. From what ms been discussed though, it was all ready to start a build in March last year, before he decided to go the Blueprint route. I’m hoping it is what he says it is, otherwise I’m overpaying(considering the delivery fee) quite a bit. After 4 conversations with him, doing a background check(I did this because he was initially going to ship it and wouldn’t accept PayPal) and seeing pics, I believe him. A suckers born everyday though and I might just be that sucker right now. My first thought was to go with stock rods and either Keith Black 107’s or Power Pro pistons H116CP. After some thought and reading your post about the machining cost of used pistons, I think I’ll be going to with the Eagle SIR6123cb’s. I really don’t want to spend $900 though to complete the bottom end on this thing. I’m hoping to get lucky and find someone selling a set here for cheaper. There’s a set of the h116cp’s with rings on FABO for $300 shipped. Too bad they’re .30 over, but it gives me hope that I can get lucky and find a cheaper route. I don’t want to skimp on the bottom end and in the end, I’ll do what makes sense quality wise over cost, for the sake of longevity of the engine. I need to order a 360 rebuild kit. Mancini has one for $420 that comes with Rod bearings, Main bearings, Cam Bearings, Freeze Plugs, Oil Pump, Gasket Set, Moly Rings and Cast Power Pro Pistons. I need to find out what pistons they are, but it seems like a good deal as long as they’re not the 405CP’s.
Click to expand...
Careful on those "kits", John. Things like "oil pump"...do you wanna use theirs? Are you sure? I bought a Melling Hi-vol last time and the difference was amazing. I rarely had less than 60 pounds even when the oil was really hot after a hard run. The original pump in the car had around 20 at idle, less if it was good and hot. Rod and crank bearings; go with the good stuff. Gaskets...Fel-Pro for me every time. It's the little things that matter.
 
Captainkirk said:
Careful on those "kits", John. Things like "oil pump"...do you wanna use theirs? Are you sure? I bought a Melling Hi-vol last time and the difference was amazing. I rarely had less than 60 pounds even when the oil was really hot after a hard run. The original pump in the car had around 20 at idle, less if it was good and hot. Rod and crank bearings; go with the good stuff. Gaskets...Fel-Pro for me every time. It's the little things that matter.
Click to expand...

I had no clue... It just made sense money and organizational/list wise. I could’ve checked off a lot of boxes with that kit. Lol. This was a place holder at the moment and was hoping to get good feedback about it. Thank you for the advice! When you say, good stuff”, what maker would you suggest for bearings?
 
John Collins said:
I had no clue... It just made sense money and organizational/list wise. I could’ve checked off a lot of boxes with that kit. Lol. This was a place holder at the moment and was hoping to get good feedback about it. Thank you for the advice! When you say, good stuff”, what maker would you suggest for bearings?
Click to expand...
Clevite 77 or Federal Mogul
 
John Collins said:
47 page thread starting on a cold night in 2006... Man, I wish mine was a ‘72. Lol. I’ll read through it over time!
Click to expand...
Pack a lunch...
As to your kits, not saying they are made up of inferior stuff. Just do your homework, is all. Builders and racers have preferred vendors for a reason, and it's usually not price. Generally, you get what you pay for. Like I mentioned, I won't use anything other than Fel Pro PermaBlue head and intake gaskets. Personal preference and good experience with them. Others here may have equally valid options and reasons for their choices.
EDIT: Generally, with places like Mancini, a phone call will get you all the info you need. Good vendors are generally eager to help. You should also ask the important questions like: "Are these NOS, and if so, date of mfg?"
A buddy of mine recently bought a NOS gasket set for his motorcycle, unopened, that literally crumbled in his hands when he opened the box. They were 22 years old.
 
Last edited:
Captainkirk said:
Pack a lunch...
As to your kits, not saying they are made up of inferior stuff. Just do your homework, is all. Builders and racers have preferred vendors for a reason, and it's usually not price. Generally, you get what you pay for. Like I mentioned, I won't use anything other than Fel Pro PermaBlue head and intake gaskets. Personal preference and good experience with them. Others here may have equally valid options and reasons for their choices.
EDIT: Generally, with places like Mancini, a phone call will get you all the info you need. Good vendors are generally eager to help. You should also ask the important questions like: "Are these NOS, and if so, date of mfg?"
A buddy of mine recently bought a NOS gasket set for his motorcycle, unopened, that literally crumbled in his hands when he opened the box. They were 22 years old.
Click to expand...
.

Great advice! In the end Mancini is just a middle man and font actually manufacture parts, right? I have to call them anyways to see where the F my front end rebuild kit is. They’ve told me for months that it’ll be here in two weeks. Lol
 
John Collins said:
.

Great advice! In the end Mancini is just a middle man and font actually manufacture parts, right? I have to call them anyways to see where the F my front end rebuild kit is. They’ve told me for months that it’ll be here in two weeks. Lol
Click to expand...
Danger, Will Robinson! There's your first sign.
 
Captainkirk said:
Danger Will Robinson!
Click to expand...

LOL. I’m not looking forward to doing the rebuild, so I’m not rushing them and have had projects to take up my time in the meantime. With that said, a 3-4 week delivery time frame shouldn’t turn into 4 months and counting.
 
I will chime in as far as parts. I do agree name brand stuff, fel Pro, Clevite77,Melling,Sealed power etc. alot of stuff these days is overseas made not quality like 20-25 years ago. An example, I had a rod bearing that didn't have the "oil hole" in the bearing halves on a 302 Ford build that I did about ten years ago. I used a small round file to gently file in the hole halves for the bearing shell. Things like that if you don't know what you are looking at you might miss it. Point is, spend the extra for hopefuly quality made parts especially engine internals that you would have to yank the engine out to fix. The old car thing is getting difficult because it is a small market and the parts arent what they used to be. Good luck.
 
Dartswinger70 said:
I will chime in as far as parts. I do agree name brand stuff, fel Pro, Clevite77,Melling,Sealed power etc. alot of stuff these days is overseas made not quality like 20-25 years ago. An example, I had a rod bearing that didn't have the "oil hole" in the bearing halves on a 302 Ford build that I did about ten years ago. I used a small round file to gently file in the hole halves for the bearing shell. Things like that if you don't know what you are looking at you might miss it. Point is, spend the extra for hopefuly quality made parts especially engine internals that you would have to yank the engine out to fix. The old car thing is getting difficult because it is a small market and the parts arent what they used to be. Good luck.
Click to expand...

I totally agree. I’m 100% a quality first guy. I’d like to find some deals though as I go along, but won’t sacrifice quality over the price. I’ll just wait it out and save a little more. I thought because it was Mancini that it would have a high standard without question, but I need to question, especially on something like this. Thank you! I going to be taking the advice of y’all on this build. I’ve read so many threads at this point and have seen how expansive the knowledge base of this crowd is. It’s impressive and I’d be an idiot not to follow the guidance of the countless years of collective years experience here.
 
John Collins said:
I totally agree. I’m 100% a quality first guy. I’d like to find some deals though as I go along, but won’t sacrifice quality over the price. I’ll just wait it out and save a little more. I thought because it was Mancini that it would have a high standard without question, but I need to question, especially on something like this. Thank you! I going to be taking the advice of y’all on this build. I’ve read so many threads at this point and have seen how expansive the knowledge base of this crowd is. It’s impressive and I’d be an idiot not to follow the guidance of the countless years of collective years experience here.
Click to expand...
Dont be afraid to use used parts as long as they are good. i have an old Crane cam SSH-320-NC for example that I am thinking about using in mine. I cant get that cam any more and I did run it in an engine before so I know it works. You can measure the lobes for wear etc. basically check it and decide if you want to use it. I agree being budget minded is a good thing. I am working on my "spare engine" that has been sitting around "In parts" for years. I am finally going to at least get it together,and possibly swap it into my car . I do have an engine in it that runs currently and a 318 sitting there collecting dust.:) I need another car LOL
 
Dartswinger70 said:
Dont be afraid to use used parts as long as they are good. i have an old Crane cam SSH-320-NC for example that I am thinking about using in mine. I cant get that cam any more and I did run it in an engine before so I know it works. You can measure the lobes for wear etc. basically check it and decide if you want to use it. I agree being budget minded is a good thing. I am working on my "spare engine" that has been sitting around "In parts" for years. I am finally going to at least get it together,and possibly swap it into my car . I do have an engine in it that runs currently and a 318 sitting there collecting dust.:) I need another car LOL
Click to expand...

Nice! This is going to be a replacement engine for my ‘73 Dodge Dart Sport. It already has a running 360 in it, but the engine has oil leaks and not incredibly high compression. It runs well, but I got the itch to try my hand at at building an engine and try and improve on what’s in there now, without going crazy.
 
My new engine is in my friends possession and in route to its new home. It came with a box of serviceable parts as well... Nice added bonus if I need them!
 
I just recently did a budget 400 build. "Somewhere" under 3K. I tried to get it under 2K but couldn't make it.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top